2.3L GT3076Build
I don't have any logged data, I did find some statements from AMS about when they used one in TA1 before they built their wet sump pan. It helped the issue on sweeping right handers, but didn't solve the problem.
Right now it's out of the car, because I had a leak somewhere, likely from a random over pressure and that made me pull the line from under the car, thinking it was the line leaking. Then I couldn't find a leak in the line, but noticed oil around the pressure relief valve.
Anyway - having it in the trunk was a pain, and the electronic valves are a big flow restriction - you need to use a manual valve. The best thing to do is get the Accusump in the cabin near the firewall with the manual valve within reach from the drivers seat. Then you flip it open as you pull out on track, and then when you come in you rev the motor to build oil pressure and keep the sump full while closing the valve. With the valve open and the car at idle the oil pressure is lower and the sump will dump extra oil into the pan. So it's best to have the valve open only when you are creating full oil pressure - that's the idea at least.
So I'm going to remount the Accusump in the cabin when I have a chance. Maybe this week, if I find some time.
Right now it's out of the car, because I had a leak somewhere, likely from a random over pressure and that made me pull the line from under the car, thinking it was the line leaking. Then I couldn't find a leak in the line, but noticed oil around the pressure relief valve.
Anyway - having it in the trunk was a pain, and the electronic valves are a big flow restriction - you need to use a manual valve. The best thing to do is get the Accusump in the cabin near the firewall with the manual valve within reach from the drivers seat. Then you flip it open as you pull out on track, and then when you come in you rev the motor to build oil pressure and keep the sump full while closing the valve. With the valve open and the car at idle the oil pressure is lower and the sump will dump extra oil into the pan. So it's best to have the valve open only when you are creating full oil pressure - that's the idea at least.
So I'm going to remount the Accusump in the cabin when I have a chance. Maybe this week, if I find some time.
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From: Earth
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: yelm, wa
those were the tires i had at PR in april, loved em, cant think of anything bad about em other than they dont hold air long, but they're competition road racing tires so what are you gonna do? in may i spun my evo into the inside wall at PIR but only needed new bumper. sold the evo, getting an e30 soon.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Camber is around -3.2 to -3.8 front, -1.2 to -1.8 rear depending on the tire. Dampening not sure - clicked until it feels good.
Eric - that sounds like you are asking me to actually wrench on my car, that's not part of my "put e85 in it and track it" plan. But I'll see what I can do. I need a new intake to replace my zipped tied together air filter so I'll be around that shaft at some point.
Eric - that sounds like you are asking me to actually wrench on my car, that's not part of my "put e85 in it and track it" plan. But I'll see what I can do. I need a new intake to replace my zipped tied together air filter so I'll be around that shaft at some point.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Went to the track yesterday and after 2 years of bolts staying in their respective turbo/wastegate mounting holes I ran into problems.
First session the car went out making whistling turbo sounds - which I had dealt with before when the wastegate came loose and resonated the stainless gasket like a reed. Stayed out for the session anyway. Came in and checked things out to find that two of the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold had come loose. Then found a bolt missing from the wastegate to manifold and the gasket destroyed. So 6 bottles of water over the manifold and turbo and I could get in there and fix things up.
After removing the O2 sensor I was able to get in and tighten the nuts which hold the turbo to the manifold, and they are held captive by the O2 housing from falling off completely. I got the two re-tightened with an open end wrench as best I could, and then checked the other two as well. Get the car back together and hit the 3rd session. Seemed OK, come in to look after that session....
One nut that used to be tight - completely gone, and two more backed off.
I'm either switching to inconel bolts - or selling this manifold and wastegate and making the switch to V-Band stuff. I need twinscroll V-band - too bad it doesn't seem to exist.
First session the car went out making whistling turbo sounds - which I had dealt with before when the wastegate came loose and resonated the stainless gasket like a reed. Stayed out for the session anyway. Came in and checked things out to find that two of the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold had come loose. Then found a bolt missing from the wastegate to manifold and the gasket destroyed. So 6 bottles of water over the manifold and turbo and I could get in there and fix things up.
After removing the O2 sensor I was able to get in and tighten the nuts which hold the turbo to the manifold, and they are held captive by the O2 housing from falling off completely. I got the two re-tightened with an open end wrench as best I could, and then checked the other two as well. Get the car back together and hit the 3rd session. Seemed OK, come in to look after that session....
One nut that used to be tight - completely gone, and two more backed off.
I'm either switching to inconel bolts - or selling this manifold and wastegate and making the switch to V-Band stuff. I need twinscroll V-band - too bad it doesn't seem to exist.