2.3L GT3076Build
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (62)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 6
From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Rotors are heat checked (minor surface cracking), but still doing fine - they have plenty of life still in them. When the cracks start to connect and hit the edge of the rotor is when they are done. But that takes a while.
One word: WOW!
I just read the entire thread, it took me like 4 days to read it. You have great skills man! I envy you lol! I really admire all your work. I have learned a lot and i'm in track again in the EVO scene as I have been in the Suby side for a few years now...
I've known evom for like 6 or 7 years now, and started looking at it again a couple of weeks ago cause im starting to "refresh-build again" an EVO 8
Here is a pic of the car im starting to refresh!

And a picture of my current 2010 STI

I just read the entire thread, it took me like 4 days to read it. You have great skills man! I envy you lol! I really admire all your work. I have learned a lot and i'm in track again in the EVO scene as I have been in the Suby side for a few years now...
I've known evom for like 6 or 7 years now, and started looking at it again a couple of weeks ago cause im starting to "refresh-build again" an EVO 8
Here is a pic of the car im starting to refresh!

And a picture of my current 2010 STI

You know it! lol But hey i like the STI a lot! A few info of it: 431WHP 423tq, stoptech 6 piston front brakes,coilovers,yohohama A048 tires, and ALL the supporting mods, its a street car though... The EVO on the other side it's a race car 
In regards of the orange, its the Porsche GT3 RS orange color code, but now its going to white!
Let me see if I get inspired a start a thread of this new build!
On the way to the shop to get the new paint job.
In regards of the orange, its the Porsche GT3 RS orange color code, but now its going to white!
Let me see if I get inspired a start a thread of this new build!
On the way to the shop to get the new paint job.
Tomorrow starts the World Time Attack Challenge in Australia!!! Cyber EVO won last year, can they keep it up??? There are a few MEAN GTR's this new year that looks they came to take the 1st place home!!! I wish i could be there with a pit pass! LOL
Jose.
Jose.
The cyber is another thing!! I feel it for the sierra team... But hey, they did an amazing job for a car that has only a couple of years of develoment vs the cyber that has been in the business for over 7 or 8 yrs now...Im a big fan of the Cyber EVO can't denied that! I thought the GTR's were going to do an amazing debut, but they were 6 or 7 seconds behind the 1st place, that's like the entire straight of the track lol! let's give them some time...
Jose
Jose
Hey,
I've read this thread quite a bit lately, I am in the process of building a 2.3.
In regards to the lash adjusters, did your adjusters colapse after installing the cams and torquing the caps down? I clean and filled mine with diesel like the manual said. After filling them, I could not depress the plunger at all.
Any ideas? Thanks
I've read this thread quite a bit lately, I am in the process of building a 2.3.
In regards to the lash adjusters, did your adjusters colapse after installing the cams and torquing the caps down? I clean and filled mine with diesel like the manual said. After filling them, I could not depress the plunger at all.
Any ideas? Thanks
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (62)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 6
From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Hey,
I've read this thread quite a bit lately, I am in the process of building a 2.3.
In regards to the lash adjusters, did your adjusters colapse after installing the cams and torquing the caps down? I clean and filled mine with diesel like the manual said. After filling them, I could not depress the plunger at all.
Any ideas? Thanks
I've read this thread quite a bit lately, I am in the process of building a 2.3.
In regards to the lash adjusters, did your adjusters colapse after installing the cams and torquing the caps down? I clean and filled mine with diesel like the manual said. After filling them, I could not depress the plunger at all.
Any ideas? Thanks
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (62)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 6
From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I don't have any logged data, I did find some statements from AMS about when they used one in TA1 before they built their wet sump pan. It helped the issue on sweeping right handers, but didn't solve the problem.
Right now it's out of the car, because I had a leak somewhere, likely from a random over pressure and that made me pull the line from under the car, thinking it was the line leaking. Then I couldn't find a leak in the line, but noticed oil around the pressure relief valve.
Anyway - having it in the trunk was a pain, and the electronic valves are a big flow restriction - you need to use a manual valve. The best thing to do is get the Accusump in the cabin near the firewall with the manual valve within reach from the drivers seat. Then you flip it open as you pull out on track, and then when you come in you rev the motor to build oil pressure and keep the sump full while closing the valve. With the valve open and the car at idle the oil pressure is lower and the sump will dump extra oil into the pan. So it's best to have the valve open only when you are creating full oil pressure - that's the idea at least.
So I'm going to remount the Accusump in the cabin when I have a chance. Maybe this week, if I find some time.
Right now it's out of the car, because I had a leak somewhere, likely from a random over pressure and that made me pull the line from under the car, thinking it was the line leaking. Then I couldn't find a leak in the line, but noticed oil around the pressure relief valve.
Anyway - having it in the trunk was a pain, and the electronic valves are a big flow restriction - you need to use a manual valve. The best thing to do is get the Accusump in the cabin near the firewall with the manual valve within reach from the drivers seat. Then you flip it open as you pull out on track, and then when you come in you rev the motor to build oil pressure and keep the sump full while closing the valve. With the valve open and the car at idle the oil pressure is lower and the sump will dump extra oil into the pan. So it's best to have the valve open only when you are creating full oil pressure - that's the idea at least.
So I'm going to remount the Accusump in the cabin when I have a chance. Maybe this week, if I find some time.


