Tsidrift1: Evo IX Project.
And Tom, ive never even considered it being the tune at fault, the damn car wasnt even at enough load that could make this happen imo.
From what I have seen, there isnt even an damage to the head. I am having it checked out of course, but I dont see anything wrong with it. My spark plug from cylinder 4 even looks fine lol.
From what I have seen, there isnt even an damage to the head. I am having it checked out of course, but I dont see anything wrong with it. My spark plug from cylinder 4 even looks fine lol.
so it seems like instead of the head you got the drivetrain parts lol. mine ate **** with the head big time. $450 to repair that.
Anthony here are the rods & pistons out of my 20k~ miles Buschur engine purchased in 2008 or 2009:
Je Pistons and manley turbo tuff rods
Je Pistons and manley turbo tuff rods
Last edited by tscompusa; May 17, 2013 at 08:45 PM.
I am not saying it is the tune at all. Someone much smarter than me has told me several times that when a rod breaks like that it is not the rod failing. Usually it is preignition. That is when the fuel ignites before the spark ever fires. It could be caused by many things. It will not warn you and it will happen quickly and deadly. Preignition is very poorly understood concept and hard to figure out. Also just like my buddy talon91guy his rod sustained damage who knows when and exploded at low throttle at 2000rpm. The other option would be a rod meant to savewweight and be used below a certain level being run outside it's design parameter. If may not have been capable of the power you were making but it is not a junk rod if it was functioning as designed. And example are Crower say lightweight rod's and Pauter A beams. Both designed for lightweight and within a certain tq level whichyou may have exceeded.
the thrust washers lay in between the crank on each end. if the block didn't break at that area of the crank it wouldn't just fall out once the main girdle is torqued down. it would keep them from coming out & spinning. unless your main girdle was partially pulled apart maybe on impact.
are you sure the main girdle wasnt damaged or pulled out at all?
If something like that happened though, you would have ate up your crank angle sensor that reads the trigger plate. if everything is fine on that end then that was damaged on the impact and wasn't the cause of the rod failing.
The thrust washers keep the endplay within spec on the crank, so if one of them is failing, you would have crank walk which is when the crank moves side to side (driver side to passenger / vice versa) and from to much endplay it will move the trigger plate into the crank angle sensor and grind the plastic crank angle sensor apart eventually killing it & shutting the vehicle off.
are you sure the main girdle wasnt damaged or pulled out at all?
If something like that happened though, you would have ate up your crank angle sensor that reads the trigger plate. if everything is fine on that end then that was damaged on the impact and wasn't the cause of the rod failing.
The thrust washers keep the endplay within spec on the crank, so if one of them is failing, you would have crank walk which is when the crank moves side to side (driver side to passenger / vice versa) and from to much endplay it will move the trigger plate into the crank angle sensor and grind the plastic crank angle sensor apart eventually killing it & shutting the vehicle off.
I was browsing through some threads here tonight about snapped rods, I really have not found any signs to contribute to what cause this. I can only blame a faulty rod as of right now lol.
I went and took a good look at my cylinder walls to look for cracks or anything, nothing. Main bearings looked fine, rod bearings looked fine. The top of the piston has a few small gashes in it, but the valves look good so far. Like I said, I will take the head in for inspection, but as of now, it looks to be ok to the naked eye. Spark plug looks fine from cylinder 4. There is just nothing giving me a hint on what could have happened lol.
Those look like R&R Pro A beams rod's. I would send some pics to them and see if that is theirs. They would probably want a rod to check but that's what it appears to be. A lightweight high rpm rod that was overloaded.
well looking at it in that regard you're right. if the rod is only designed / rated for certain power and it is intentionally lightened to perform optimum at those specific power levels then if you overpower it then yes its certainly not the rods fault i agree. i never thought of it that way.
we never got to tune the car on e85, it was always on 93oct so the power was limited to under 600whp. i believe he made a best of something like 550 or something and 450tq.
Pre ignition shows hot spots and signs of overheating right? there is none of that on his car. everything looks good but the rod that broke like a lego.
hell even the piston remained in one piece. when something that bad is caused by any sort of detonation related event the pistons explodes into a million pieces and is found in the oil pan in fragments.
we never got to tune the car on e85, it was always on 93oct so the power was limited to under 600whp. i believe he made a best of something like 550 or something and 450tq.
Pre ignition shows hot spots and signs of overheating right? there is none of that on his car. everything looks good but the rod that broke like a lego.
hell even the piston remained in one piece. when something that bad is caused by any sort of detonation related event the pistons explodes into a million pieces and is found in the oil pan in fragments.
Well, im not surprised, but I was hoping I would get lucky. I pulled the cams out today and at least one of my exhaust valves in cylinder #4 is bent. The others seem to be ok, i shined my led light through and didnt see light through any valve except the one ehaust valve, but who knows.
I feel I am really starting to get in over my head now. I really wish I would have sold the car a few weeks ago now.
Ok, so going straight through Ferrea, I can get everything individually. I just had the head all done in the summer of 2011 with bronze valve guides, ferrea std valves and new seals. I am just gonna have the machine shop replace everything in cylinder #4. I really dont see a need to get everything else replaced being 2 yrs old and having about 5k miles on them.
I feel I am really starting to get in over my head now. I really wish I would have sold the car a few weeks ago now.
Ok, so going straight through Ferrea, I can get everything individually. I just had the head all done in the summer of 2011 with bronze valve guides, ferrea std valves and new seals. I am just gonna have the machine shop replace everything in cylinder #4. I really dont see a need to get everything else replaced being 2 yrs old and having about 5k miles on them.
Last edited by tsidrift1; May 18, 2013 at 09:51 AM.
you wish you sold the car over a bent valve? come on man! lol. do you know how easy valves are to change!!!!! all you need is a $70 tool to compress the springs and its that simple. the keepers can be a PITA to get on, but it is very simple. just need to make sure you press the valve seals in all the way and make sure they have proper clearances. It is super easy though in the regard of difficulty level. however time consuming it definitely is.
I cleaned a head last week, and put new valves, springs, retainers, seats, seals, etc in it, and it was about a 5hr job.
To just do 1 cyl with 4 valves/springs/retainers/seals, etc shouldn't take more than 1 hr.
I cleaned a head last week, and put new valves, springs, retainers, seats, seals, etc in it, and it was about a 5hr job.
To just do 1 cyl with 4 valves/springs/retainers/seals, etc shouldn't take more than 1 hr.
ive done valves before, but i hate to just put in a new valve without a valve job being done. From the look of it, it doesnt look like my guide got cracked or the other valves are harmed, but i want the machine shop to check it out for me.
Im just overwhelmed with everything right now. I got the shortblock being built, but I need to get new parts, gaskets for the shortblock. Since I threw a rod and metal was flying around, I start thinking, what should I replace?? Most shops say oil cooler, oil cooler lines, front case, oil pump etc. That **** adds up so fast. After all this **** is replaced, I am gonna be in this repair about $8 grand. Thats what makes me wish I would have just sold it when I had the offers coming in.
Once the car is running again, Im gonna be afraid to drive the damn thing lol. Coming back from an $8000 repair is scary.
Im just overwhelmed with everything right now. I got the shortblock being built, but I need to get new parts, gaskets for the shortblock. Since I threw a rod and metal was flying around, I start thinking, what should I replace?? Most shops say oil cooler, oil cooler lines, front case, oil pump etc. That **** adds up so fast. After all this **** is replaced, I am gonna be in this repair about $8 grand. Thats what makes me wish I would have just sold it when I had the offers coming in.
Once the car is running again, Im gonna be afraid to drive the damn thing lol. Coming back from an $8000 repair is scary.
Last edited by tsidrift1; May 18, 2013 at 08:53 PM.
ive done valves before, but i hate to just put in a new valve without a valve job being done. From the look of it, it doesnt look like my guide got cracked or the other valves are harmed, but i want the machine shop to check it out for me.
Im just overwhelmed with everything right now. I got the shortblock being built, but I need to get new parts, gaskets for the shortblock. Since I threw a rod and metal was flying around, I start thinking, what should I replace?? Most shops say oil cooler, oil cooler lines, front case, oil pump etc. That **** adds up so fast. After all this **** is replaced, I am gonna be in this repair about $8 grand. Thats what makes me wish I would have just sold it when I had the offers coming in.
Once the car is running again, Im gonna be afraid to drive the damn thing lol. Coming back from an $8000 repair is scary.
Im just overwhelmed with everything right now. I got the shortblock being built, but I need to get new parts, gaskets for the shortblock. Since I threw a rod and metal was flying around, I start thinking, what should I replace?? Most shops say oil cooler, oil cooler lines, front case, oil pump etc. That **** adds up so fast. After all this **** is replaced, I am gonna be in this repair about $8 grand. Thats what makes me wish I would have just sold it when I had the offers coming in.
Once the car is running again, Im gonna be afraid to drive the damn thing lol. Coming back from an $8000 repair is scary.
frontcase is a must also.
you should be buying parts from me it will save you a good bit of $.
shouldn't be nowhere near 8k. if you need parts or advice feel free to come on AOL and msg me.
Been out in the garage most of the day today. Ive kind of been cleaning up the fire wall, wiping down some oil lol.
I did dig the tcase out today to inspect the damage. This is my first time taking a tcase apart. Seemed fairly simple, at least for what I am doing. The rod, when it came out smacked the tcase and took a small chunk out of the casing. I got it all apart and ready to replace, or I might talk to my good friend about welding it. Depends, it doesnt seem like these are readily available without buying a whole tcase.
All torn down:
Small chunks I found inside, these were laying in the inspection cover plate, I took a god look into everything else, nothing else was found.
I did dig the tcase out today to inspect the damage. This is my first time taking a tcase apart. Seemed fairly simple, at least for what I am doing. The rod, when it came out smacked the tcase and took a small chunk out of the casing. I got it all apart and ready to replace, or I might talk to my good friend about welding it. Depends, it doesnt seem like these are readily available without buying a whole tcase.
All torn down:
Small chunks I found inside, these were laying in the inspection cover plate, I took a god look into everything else, nothing else was found.
