I would be more pissed about them not cross hatching the block, then with #3 rod hitting the block. I mean sure there are other ways to hone a block but I personally would want the crosshatching. Reguardless there is no excuse for that just plain unacceptable.

Edit: my bad eyes didn't see it was crosshatched my bad.

 

the cross hatching looks fine, no need for a super coarse finish.

 

fwiw the machine shop does not know what is needed to be clearanced until it is assembled unless they have built that exact engine before. I know on the last 2.3 evo engine I built with manley rods the bottom of the cylinders needed to be clearanced for the rods. Now on a dsm 4g63 this is not needed but the main cap webbing needs to be trimmed along with a few spots on the walls of the block

 

I am so pissed that JAM would do that! it was all together and everything! now we have to redue and fix the problem

i doubt they will give money back because they will think they are not wrong or something or say some bullsh*t bring the motor back and we will fix it.. umm they arnt realizing it cost be $75 round trip in gas and a whole day process. shipping would be 200 easy

i believe you now also!

there shop is really nice and customer service was great over the phone so i thought id give them a shot. deff back fired on me tho.

yea i am going to tell them the time i wasted bec of there mistake!

yup i agree and that is what i told Tom when we first saw this. im going to call JAM tomorrow hopefully they will man up and admit it was there mistake and refund me 200-300 for the tear down i had to do, time assembling wasted, and the fact they didnt preform a service i paid for!

 

Great write up man and sorry to hear about the machine shop issue. I've got everything except my short block which is on its way now from AWDmotorsports for my 2.4LR build that I’m about to put together and have a couple which questions. 1st off, where do you have to notch the block so the rod cap doesn’t make contact? I need to tell my machine shop so i don’t run into the same problem. Any other issues other than the dipstick, waterpump, timing gears/belt, and choosing the right headgasket that i sould be aware of before diving in? PS, i've built 5+ honda race motors before but this is my 1st mitsu build. Thanks in advance

 

i made sure to pay attention to the stock block as we were disassembling. ya the notches on them face outward not inward.

 

I'll get a picture for you when i go up there over the weekend to re-assemble the engine.

for a 2.4 use a cometic HG or a modified OEM.. cometic is what were using though.

You'll be fine then if you've already built honda engines.

 

ya this is true.. they wouldn't know what to notch off unless they assembled it themselves and turned it. its not their fault.

 

Can you please post picture of where block needs to be notched.
My 2.4 is going to machine shop and I want to make sure this is done.

thanks

 

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a 2.4 block doesnt need notching, it came from the factory with the 100mm crank. with aluminum rods it may need notching, but not with steel rods.

 

Some more pictures of progress. we have assembled the head and the short block is back together again also now after notching was performed.

 

Tnx for the images man, is it running yet? I'm going to notch my own block, there's nothing they are going to do special at the machine shop that I dont have tools for or can't do myself.

 

No problem man. No not running yet. The owner is on vacation, and wont return until Saturday. I will most likely get his car all assembled and running before the end of this month.

Ya its not hard to do. Stephen just used a dremel and did it.. he did a really good job. you don't have to take off as much as he did though in the picture.

 

For the unlearned such as myself, what is the purpose of notching since I also have an uninstalled 2.4LR?