As the rotating assembly starts to rotate the rod caps hit the bottom of the sleeve or i should say where the sleeve would meet the block as shown in picture above if not notched the motor would never turn on. It would never make a complete rotation in other words.

 

ya rod cap or rod bolt will hit the main girdle area of the block below the cylinder wall.. if this occurs you notch the block to make room for it to clear.. what we did isn't really a notch, rather a sanding with a dremel.

when doing it you need to re-clean the block and make sure every bit of shaving is out of there.. that's critical. otherwise you'll spin a bearing from contamination.

 

its only necessary w/ certain rods, i believe manleys are one of them

 

Awesome. Thanks for teaching me.

 

Here's how I notched mine, I didn't need it on every cylinder - but I just did it while I was in there. That way it was good for any rod down the road.

 

no prob, i only know cuz im just having mine built and i recall the quotes i was getting advising so on those rods, usually offering eagle or manleys same price

 

more random pics of progress:

Here i was pointing to the manual showing steve that the oil pump gear timing marks dont
need to be lined up when you do the balance shaft removal.. but i had them lined up anyways.
We seen this when we packed the pump with lube.









its officially now a longblock, but my camera ran out of batteries so i didnt get a pic of that.. we have everything installed now and timed now..

installed new TOB in trans, etc.. will update with more pics when I can.

 

thats basically what we did. use a dremel also. he didnt do each one though. thanks for sharing though Jid

 

yea i saw no need to do any other ones because they cleared with flying colors i think.

 

Find out when it's together?

 

find out when whats together? If you think i didnt check the clearance on the rod bolts & caps the 2nd time you're insane.

The only reason we overlooked it the first time is because we were told and i quote..

"its good to go, just assemble and start it" .. not quite.. it needed notched.. so it was far from ready to go.

 

'Twas a joke, mang. He said "i think" at the end of his post.

 

i know.. he uses bad wording sometimes. just letting you know i did check it.. and there is no guessing about it. they have more then enough room for expansion with heat, etc.

 

fired the engine up the other day will get videos shortly.. its such a quiet engine. it sounds so good.

 

Attempt #1 lol - dead battery:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSEffd3EYcE

Attempt #2 - success ...... or not? lol..

I tried to scare him with the ticking noise.. by pretending like i didn't know what it was also haha.. i had him scared for a good hr after that.. he kept asking me about the tick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQVAUum3QwI

Funny story to the car just turning itself off.. and it had us stumped for about 10minutes.. then we received a crank and cam signal cel and it dinged in my head..

worst case scenario would be the crank had to much endplay and the trigger plate was hitting the crank sensor and blacking out the ecu timing (not possible considering i measured endplay and it was way within spec) or #2 the cam angle sensor was flipped..

well to our surprise it was neither.. the cam angle sensor was just sitting in there dangling! the bolt was loose and it was loose.. this was overlooked because we had to remove the one cam again to place the rocker arms on and i guess we never tightened it back up..

It was a major relief after we seen that loose.

Attempt #3 - success .....YES IT STAYS RUNNING! lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGi0gWxozzM

Finally after we torqued the cam angle sensor bolt to spec and properly aligned the cam angle sensor trigger it is now alive and running without shutting off!

I'll have Steve post another video of how it sounds now.. but right now in these videos its got a loud tick because the lifters need filled with oil and properly ran at certain RPM's for a certain amount of times for the tick to go away fully.

He said the ticks fully gone now after hes put about 80 miles on the car so far.

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This engine sounds so quiet.. his engines very quiet and smooth sounding.


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next up is remove full blown junk and put in BR double pumper. Tuned the car for about 5minutes at idle.. gave it more fuel since more displacement requires more fuel.. we took it around the block.. man does SD ever run smooth.. it is so smooth.. no notchiness, no jerking.. its very very smooth.. puts a maf car to shame.

my personal evo is about as smooth as any maf car is ever gonna get, and it put it to shame.. on and off throttle is so smooth compared to a maf.. you can stab the throttle and it gets into it smooth like a bmw.