i know you're not hatin.. didnt think you were.. but i never seen one shred from the spacer .. the only thing i seen people trying to say was that the spacer will get rubbed against the blade in the waterpump which i i dont think thats gonna happen. i put something inbetween the spacer and blade and sat the spacer down.. it has about a mm to go before it would get contact.

ya ive had belts shred before from bad pulleys and mis alignment and such.. its not fun.

i dont think that will be an issue tho. i guess time will tell.

do yourself a favor and use a really thin film of rtv to the gasket where it touches the spacer and also to the part that touches the waterpump.. let it sit for 1hr or so.. it makes the job much easier when you have gaskets in place and it also assist in sealing.

i just used my finger and rubbed it on very thin. also before rtv drys run the bolts through the holes with the spacers so u know everything is 100% aligned.

do not use rtv on the block side though.. that can cause leakage.

 

Thanks for the info guys,i'll be checking and comparing water pumps over the weekend thanks to a good friend at a local auto parts store,i think a 2006 Outlander pump would work,since it is the same phisicaly as a earlier 4G64 pump but with a shorter snout,the earlier 4G64 pumps were 10mm taller than the Evo pump therefore belts don't line up.I just don't like the idea of using a spacer specially if there is a pump i can use instead.

 

Thanks Tom. That's good info to know.

Please update your findings VIIIdriver when you can. This is an option a few locals are exploring as well.

 

stock 4g64 crank?

 

Hey guys,already finished comparing water pumps and i'm pleased to say i found what i was looking for,there is a pump out there that fits the 4G64 and allows the belts to line up perfectly,eliminating the need for adapters,i already ordered the pump online since it was too expensive to get it from the store,as soon as i get it i'll post a thread for it with plenty of pictures and both OEM and aftermarket part numbers to help whoever might need the info,stay tuned !!!

 

ya.

 

we got about 750 miles on the engine now.. we are gonna swap out the full blown DP for a buschur DP then we will tune the car and visit the track.

reason for mild break in is because rings are gapped tight + he had to break in clutch and etc.

 

It's better to be safe than sorry. What oil did you run for break in, and in what intervals did you change it?

 

Brad penn break in oil and we idled the engine for about 30min on jack stands level then drained oil and filled back up.. i believe he then did 50 miles on that and then drained then took the next oil to about where it is now coming near 1k miles.

we are really close to getting the car ready to make power. our goal is 550WHP we will see.

550 should give it a 130mph+ trap so we will see soon. so far so good. the car is running very good.

the engine is very quiet and smooth sounding and doesn't burn any oil at all.

 

i did some tuning with this car yesterday and at 23psi it made around 470whp.. this cars very very strong.. once its all finalized ill share more data.. it will be at the track after we get it all setup but i never felt a fp black at such low boost with this much power before..

the car is

tscomptuned 2.4L mivec (manley i-beam / wiseco hd e85 pistons)
stock head /w supertech hardware
cometic hg /w ARP L19 studs
stock cams
tial Q bov
fp black /w 18psi wga
BR race fmic
BR double pumper
BR turbo back exhaust
BR o2 housing
Exedy twin HD /w 3 wave rings
Clutch fork stop
ported stock exhaust mani
JMF 4" intake tube
tephra v7 speed density
muse upper/lower pipe
FIC 1550cc inj

I think that's it.. was on e85. not sharing any graphs until later but wanted to update.

engine has about 900 miles on it now. i think the goal to pass 500 should be no problem and if i let him use my slicks it should also go into the 10's no problem.

 

Can I ask what the difference is with the timing marks?

Also, besides needing to use the 4G64 belt; what other components need to be replaced? For example, the tensioner, pullies, cam-gear, etc?

 

Any reason why he's rocking stock cams?

 

Wow!! stock rods are thin!!

 

How can you even measure the oil ring expander gap? Mine just falls through the cylinder? But my real question is there are 6 total rings. I got my upper ring, Lower ring, and oil rings= 3. But then with my Weisco pistons I had one separate in a bag. Its has a spot for it on the piston but I dont know whats its purpose or what the ring gap should be? Do you know what Im talking about?

 

Advanced a half tooth on each cam gear with stock cams & OEM 9 timing belt.

Money.. This car is going to give hell to a lot of local evos for sure.. cant wait for him to mop other cars up.

Yes they are.. but the look of them isnt the half of it.. to know the actual strength of each rod you would need to do some kind of pressure testing on them both.. looks dont mean much.

Depends on piston but there are 3 pieces to the oil expander ring.. the 2 small rings go on the outside of the expander itself which is the squiggly looking ring.

Read the manufacturers install instructions and you will be fine.. if you still have questions, call them.. they will assist you 100%. make sure the gaps do NOT line up together.

Also you dont change the gap on the expander.. its default setting is just fine. (at least on wiseco)