Evodan2004 has lost his mind part 3. The new changes and goals for 2013.
The electric water pump cars can still run a thermostat. I wouldn't run the car for more than a few seconds without the pump on IMO. I've never been a fan of electric water pump or no power steering on street driven cars. If I blow my modded oe water pump I'm going to electric though. In regards to the ps lines I bent my own low pressure line and left the oem high pressure alone, it works and with as much pressure those lines see I didn't want to hassle making one and potentially having a failure. I did cut the cooler loop out of the system though.
Dan, you are a crazy man.. hahaha.. I dont know if you mentioned it before in the thread but since you have the car stripped to this extent why not do a custom rad support.. I think that would help you drop a good amount of weight..
Some days I feel very smart.........so here comes the needed info for most of what's been posted in the last few pages....
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
4. The electric steering units used in current vehicles are very complex, the reason is the steering feedback and they need an ECU to work properly.
5. Electric water pumps, kick ***. The best ones built were the Shogun pumps, unfortunately the older gentleman who made them has retired and they are no longer made. In probably 15 years of using them I've had ONE leak slightly from the bottom and needed a new o-ring, which he did for free. There are other options out there now like the Deadenbear but I have no idea how they will hold up.
6. I would not recommend an electric pump being used with a thermostat. I do not like to dead head the pump, which is basically what happens when the thermostat is closed. If you are at the point you need an electric pump you should probably have a real ECU and with that real ECU you can control the pump and fan to regulate the engine temps.
I think that covers it.
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
4. The electric steering units used in current vehicles are very complex, the reason is the steering feedback and they need an ECU to work properly.
5. Electric water pumps, kick ***. The best ones built were the Shogun pumps, unfortunately the older gentleman who made them has retired and they are no longer made. In probably 15 years of using them I've had ONE leak slightly from the bottom and needed a new o-ring, which he did for free. There are other options out there now like the Deadenbear but I have no idea how they will hold up.
6. I would not recommend an electric pump being used with a thermostat. I do not like to dead head the pump, which is basically what happens when the thermostat is closed. If you are at the point you need an electric pump you should probably have a real ECU and with that real ECU you can control the pump and fan to regulate the engine temps.
I think that covers it.
Some days I feel very smart.........so here comes the needed info for most of what's been posted in the last few pages....
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
4. The electric steering units used in current vehicles are very complex, the reason is the steering feedback and they need an ECU to work properly.
5. Electric water pumps, kick ***. The best ones built were the Shogun pumps, unfortunately the older gentleman who made them has retired and they are no longer made. In probably 15 years of using them I've had ONE leak slightly from the bottom and needed a new o-ring, which he did for free. There are other options out there now like the Deadenbear but I have no idea how they will hold up.
6. I would not recommend an electric pump being used with a thermostat. I do not like to dead head the pump, which is basically what happens when the thermostat is closed. If you are at the point you need an electric pump you should probably have a real ECU and with that real ECU you can control the pump and fan to regulate the engine temps.
I think that covers it.
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
4. The electric steering units used in current vehicles are very complex, the reason is the steering feedback and they need an ECU to work properly.
5. Electric water pumps, kick ***. The best ones built were the Shogun pumps, unfortunately the older gentleman who made them has retired and they are no longer made. In probably 15 years of using them I've had ONE leak slightly from the bottom and needed a new o-ring, which he did for free. There are other options out there now like the Deadenbear but I have no idea how they will hold up.
6. I would not recommend an electric pump being used with a thermostat. I do not like to dead head the pump, which is basically what happens when the thermostat is closed. If you are at the point you need an electric pump you should probably have a real ECU and with that real ECU you can control the pump and fan to regulate the engine temps.
I think that covers it.
As you mentioned, a "real ecu" is needed unless the stock ecu can have pins tapped so extra items can be controlled.
Some days I feel very smart.........so here comes the needed info for most of what's been posted in the last few pages....
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
1. We offer a reservoir relocation kit for the EVO8-9. Moves it back to the firewall, cleans up room and in reality moves some weight back.
2. MR2 pump. It has a HUGE current draw. You need a large out put alternator. I have the alternator on my car already and the main wiring to the alternator has been upgraded for years to use the pump. You are also going to need an ECU to control the PWM circuit you need to run the pump, I also had that made custom for the application. The pump speed needs to be regulated so the pump runs faster at low speed and less (or maybe off in some cases) at higher vehicle speeds. This gives you the correct feel/feedback in the steering wheel. So it's not so simple as just putting it on.
3. The factory switch/wire to the pump as far as I know is there for idle control when the wheels gets turned only. I've eliminated that wire, long ago on my own car.
2. Why haven't you made the jump yet?
3. What does removing the switch/wire do?
Thank you for the information!
On a stock ecu at stock idle when you turn the wheel the pump sees a load and the engine increases its revs. On an aem or other standalone it doesn't do anything.
With the electric water pump , one can also use a thermal switch, much like the one that controls the input of radiator fans on some older cars. A pump controller would be best or Ecu control of that input.
Since we are talking about water pumps, here are some that I was considering to use
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/
some very cool stuff on that site..
Since we are talking about water pumps, here are some that I was considering to use
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/
some very cool stuff on that site..
Last edited by antilag_200; Feb 27, 2013 at 01:04 PM.
as for the power steering option. i just lost interest HAHA with all that stuff required. i will leave it alone.
while you guys are having fun in here i found another .X of a LB though. i need to weigh the part before i modify it. so more on that later.
meeeeeealso i got my tie rods today. i put them on and maybe tomorrow i will throw all the spindles back on and wheels and be ready to power wash saturday
i have a front and rear spindle out right now i am lending to a friend who may be making them and sooner then i can. the guy who is doing my CNC work also wants to look into it. but right now we have a few things going on we want to complete before we step into the aluminum spindles. either way they will be made.
i removed the fronts on the car because i had to replace the tie rods and also remove the axles to remove the trans. i know it can be done without it but i am not dealing with it swinging around pissing me off. LOL.
i had the Whiteline Bump steer kit that comes with lower ball joints and tie rod ends. the driver side tie rod kept striping when i removed the nut so many times. finally it seized on there and i had to cut it off. i bought 2 brand new ''E-Bay'' tie rod ends for 40 bucks shipped. i put both on. i honestly do not even know why i bought the 200+ whiteline kit. i did not notice a damn thing from stock. so i was not dropping another 200 bucks on the kit to use 1 tie rod.
i removed the fronts on the car because i had to replace the tie rods and also remove the axles to remove the trans. i know it can be done without it but i am not dealing with it swinging around pissing me off. LOL.
i had the Whiteline Bump steer kit that comes with lower ball joints and tie rod ends. the driver side tie rod kept striping when i removed the nut so many times. finally it seized on there and i had to cut it off. i bought 2 brand new ''E-Bay'' tie rod ends for 40 bucks shipped. i put both on. i honestly do not even know why i bought the 200+ whiteline kit. i did not notice a damn thing from stock. so i was not dropping another 200 bucks on the kit to use 1 tie rod.
am i on drugs????? no they weigh to much.
modded another bracket. shifter base bracket. before evodan 1.90LBS.
after evodan touched it 1.40LBS. weight lose .50LBS.
i bet i can get more out of it but this is fine. i do not have time to go to crazy. i relocated a clip hole, trimmed off what i 100% do not need and then drilled some holes. i might repaint it yellow with the paint i got for practice or i might send it out to be powder coated black. i have 4 other brackets going out for powder coat next week so i might just add this to it. i used a scotch brite to sand it real quick. nothing special.
modded another bracket. shifter base bracket. before evodan 1.90LBS.
after evodan touched it 1.40LBS. weight lose .50LBS.
i bet i can get more out of it but this is fine. i do not have time to go to crazy. i relocated a clip hole, trimmed off what i 100% do not need and then drilled some holes. i might repaint it yellow with the paint i got for practice or i might send it out to be powder coated black. i have 4 other brackets going out for powder coat next week so i might just add this to it. i used a scotch brite to sand it real quick. nothing special.
