New WW IX MR
not as much preload as I expected in the rear - maybe a quarter to a half an inch worth, if I had to guess? A big mismatch between the left and right sides though, which may have come from the corner balancing. The rears give a LOT of thread, which may have been why I was inclined to run more preload back there. may be the mismatch that caused the car to bite me in transitions though, where the rear gets light from side to side quickly.
otherwise, I've finally got JDM headlights!! These are the 9 MRs, not the flat black 8 MRs, which were a little too dark for me. Should wrap up installing them tonight.
Next up are DBA rotors (5000 front, 4000 rear), and carbotech AX6s - looking around sometime the 3rd week of Aug to take care of those. I have the grimmspeed brake brace, but haven't decided if I'll put it on. Kind of a pain to get the thing fitted on.
After eliminating so many things, it's almost certain the popping noise is related to something loose in the steering line. I looked at the steering bushing (Whiteline) last night, and even that looked loose, as far as I can tell. Should be taken care of early next week!
otherwise, I've finally got JDM headlights!! These are the 9 MRs, not the flat black 8 MRs, which were a little too dark for me. Should wrap up installing them tonight.
Next up are DBA rotors (5000 front, 4000 rear), and carbotech AX6s - looking around sometime the 3rd week of Aug to take care of those. I have the grimmspeed brake brace, but haven't decided if I'll put it on. Kind of a pain to get the thing fitted on.
After eliminating so many things, it's almost certain the popping noise is related to something loose in the steering line. I looked at the steering bushing (Whiteline) last night, and even that looked loose, as far as I can tell. Should be taken care of early next week!
If you had the car corner balanced, set everything to the recommended preload from ohlins, and then you'll need to redo the corner balance. The corner balance will change preload a bit, but not much. And it will make it so each axle has the same load on the spring on each side. Making the car react the same in both directions.
Yes have them corner balanced from the bottom mount; that's how I had mine done and the correct way to do it on a setup like the Ohlins.
Leave preload along unless you're trying to up the spring rates since we know that's how to accomplish it
Leave preload along unless you're trying to up the spring rates since we know that's how to accomplish it
eric's trolling game is strong!
car is all put together, headlights are working great. I've got access to the adjustment screw, plus it's a slightly new design that has a hex in the back you can stick a socket on to turn. it turns, but the headlight itself doesn't - it almost looks like it wants to, kind of like it goes over a hump before falling back down. will have to look more into it.
suspension is all set up too, the rears lower marginally than they had been, maybe a "finger" or so. the fronts I may have raised too much, so I'm going to lower that one about half an inch
going to get the headlights clear bra'd today, then the suspension noises fixed hopefully over the weekend, and re-aligned. I've got a busy two weeks coming up, after which I'll install the rotors and pads, then change the oil! next race 8/27!
car is all put together, headlights are working great. I've got access to the adjustment screw, plus it's a slightly new design that has a hex in the back you can stick a socket on to turn. it turns, but the headlight itself doesn't - it almost looks like it wants to, kind of like it goes over a hump before falling back down. will have to look more into it.
suspension is all set up too, the rears lower marginally than they had been, maybe a "finger" or so. the fronts I may have raised too much, so I'm going to lower that one about half an inch
going to get the headlights clear bra'd today, then the suspension noises fixed hopefully over the weekend, and re-aligned. I've got a busy two weeks coming up, after which I'll install the rotors and pads, then change the oil! next race 8/27!
eric's trolling game is strong!
car is all put together, headlights are working great. I've got access to the adjustment screw, plus it's a slightly new design that has a hex in the back you can stick a socket on to turn. it turns, but the headlight itself doesn't - it almost looks like it wants to, kind of like it goes over a hump before falling back down. will have to look more into it.
suspension is all set up too, the rears lower marginally than they had been, maybe a "finger" or so. the fronts I may have raised too much, so I'm going to lower that one about half an inch
going to get the headlights clear bra'd today, then the suspension noises fixed hopefully over the weekend, and re-aligned. I've got a busy two weeks coming up, after which I'll install the rotors and pads, then change the oil! next race 8/27!
car is all put together, headlights are working great. I've got access to the adjustment screw, plus it's a slightly new design that has a hex in the back you can stick a socket on to turn. it turns, but the headlight itself doesn't - it almost looks like it wants to, kind of like it goes over a hump before falling back down. will have to look more into it.
suspension is all set up too, the rears lower marginally than they had been, maybe a "finger" or so. the fronts I may have raised too much, so I'm going to lower that one about half an inch
going to get the headlights clear bra'd today, then the suspension noises fixed hopefully over the weekend, and re-aligned. I've got a busy two weeks coming up, after which I'll install the rotors and pads, then change the oil! next race 8/27!
Now quit playing with headlights and go find that clunk son!
I think the hump is the rounded off gears of whatever is inside there not actually working. if that's the case though, the simple act of turning the headlight adjuster rounded off the headlight adjusting mechanism lol
interesting anecdote - after the coated downpipe, i'm seeing/feeling a LOT more heat coming from the bay area. heard that is common with coated downpipes as the heat has to go somewhere
JDM IX MR Headlights!
Finally formally updating these - thanks to Vivid Racing ($1700 shipped - way better than most vendors - & $1300 shipped for VIII MR Headlights) for these! Took an afternoon to install them, I think they look great on the car, especially on white. Got the headlights clear bra'd and washed the car as well:
Everything is plug and play and works - haven't connected the fogs yet but everything's in place to. Can't seem to adjust the beam but they're fine where they are for now.
Everything is plug and play and works - haven't connected the fogs yet but everything's in place to. Can't seem to adjust the beam but they're fine where they are for now.
i'll post some pics later, but I installed DBA 5000 rotors in the front and DBA 4000 rotors in the rear, with girodisc s/s pads all around. Bedded them in tonight, they have pretty solid braking power. Unfortunately, I've still got a mushy pedal, and after bleeding the brakes 3 times now with the power bleeder, I don't think it's air in the system.
I just recalled that when I blew my pads at the track day and got new ones, I was parked uphill when I had someone help me with the pads. Put the car down to leave, and I started rolling backwards - fast. I put it to the floor a number of times trying to stop, and probably scraped up the walls doing so. Other ideas are welcome, but given how many times I've bled now, I'm going to check other solutions - i.e., new master cylinder.
I just recalled that when I blew my pads at the track day and got new ones, I was parked uphill when I had someone help me with the pads. Put the car down to leave, and I started rolling backwards - fast. I put it to the floor a number of times trying to stop, and probably scraped up the walls doing so. Other ideas are welcome, but given how many times I've bled now, I'm going to check other solutions - i.e., new master cylinder.