What do you mean the cover? Train in asking is that if when taking everything apart, the TOB was released from the pressure plate wrong, the ring on the pressure plate that jolts the monoloc can crack, which will cause this issue. The ring won't be able to keep pressure on the monoloc, so the monoloc won't hold the TOB. It needs to come back apart. Hopefully this is the first thing they did after bolting the trans up.

 

^ decided to go ahead and get a new TOB & monoloc, and everything went in very smoothly. Not sure what was wrong with the old bits, but that's that.

also, sent my oil pan off to buschur to get the baffle welded in. I figure for the cost (I got a deal) it will be better than nothing. Also ordered the Tomei baffle/slicer kit, which seems to have 2 slicers as well as improved windage plate design to get oil back in the pan. In addition to the Kiggly, as well as running Redline, I'm confident that will take care of any oil issues

 

just an update - buschur pan in, tomei slicers in, tanabe sustec hollow front sway bar in, and new clutch feels really, really good after the polish - no more difficulty getting into 1st or R from a standstill. I'm going to adjust the clutch a little higher from where it's at now, but otherwise everything feels very good

 

nice car

 

ok - first time autoxing with the fsb added, and I can definitely say the car pushes more than it does, and maybe a little number in the front. on the track, the car feels great, it was seriously perfect.

for autox however, I'm still getting a good amount of roll/instability on transitions/slaloms. i'll crank up the shocks a little stiffer, or maybe make the rear a little softer, who knows. i'll play around with it a bit. car feels good overall, I may set the rear bar to medium to get that front end bite back that I lost a little of, and perhaps combined with some shock adjustments get the car to a place I'm comfortable at. either that or I should just stop using the mini as a baseline for how cars can slalom lol. too many degrees of freedom on this car to choose how it behaves. tire pressures, shocks, bar settings, acd settings.

 

Just turn the dampers all the way up. That's how I autocrossed my car. You're already running springs rates that are much softer than the typical "race only" autocross car anyways. Need more roll resistance. The front of the car almost looks like it's porpoising around in a few spots. Not very well controlled by the dampers.

 

got it - will crank them way stiff this weekend and see how the car feels. I've already set the rear bar to the middle setting as well. thanks!

 

kyoo, I see that you race at gateway? Im about 40 minutes from there and would like to start autocrossing my car when i get it running. Probably going to need a few pointers if you wouldnt mind. Also are you a part of the "STLEvo" facebook page?

 

hey just PM me

 

Another event trying to hone in the car's behavior a little. I set the rear bar to the middle setting and cranked my shocks near max (5 clicks from full stiff). The car is still acting a little hairy in transitions, so I think setting the rear bar back to soft maybe do it. A good portion of it is definitely my jerky inputs, but there's still something a little loose about the car.

Below is run 4, my fastest raw run - I think I set the rear shocks a little softer when I made the run. The run below that is my 3rd, where the car is definitely acting a little hairy. Run 5 after that was kind of on par for the car - a little bit of countersteer in a few spots but not too much, with the car turning just right in certain spots, and a little pushy in others. Input always appreciated

Run 4:



Run 3:



Run 5:

 

Car looks much more composed now. I never put a sway bar on my car, I just ran the rear shock 2-3 clicks stiffer than the rear. Idk if you've ever watched any of my videos, but here is pretty much the only one I have lol.My car always felt very composed with a touch of understeer in certain situations.

 

thanks for the input - what shocks? my ohlins are rebound only. with the car being a little loose, I put them softer than the fronts for a little more rear grip/stability

 

Stance super sports. Single adjustables 9k/11k springs. They say rebound only, but you're controlling a bleed circuit with that clicker, it affects compression too. Just not as much as it affects rebound.

 

carrying on from the spring discussion - if I want to take out the preload on the springs, without losing too many threads in the bottom as well as keeping ride height roughly where it is, are spacers the answer?

 

You mean top hat spacers? When you have a moment measure your ride height and Ill check mine too. I wouldnt bother with spacers. You should be able to get it high enough with the bottom mount.