New WW IX MR
slowly planning to remove & upgrade the oil pan - aside from the pan itself, this is all i'll need correct:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...t_mr258477.htm
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...mitsu_bond.htm
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...t_mr258477.htm
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...mitsu_bond.htm
Get the oringed washers that go under the bolt head for the turbo drain line bolts also. I would just get this kit:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...gasket_kit.htm
And, skip the expensive OEM sealant. Get this:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...gasket_kit.htm
And, skip the expensive OEM sealant. Get this:
Get the oringed washers that go under the bolt head for the turbo drain line bolts also. I would just get this kit:
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...gasket_kit.htm
And, skip the expensive OEM sealant. Get this:
Amazon.com: Permatex 25229 The Right Stuff Gasket Maker, 3 oz.: Automotive
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...gasket_kit.htm
And, skip the expensive OEM sealant. Get this:
Amazon.com: Permatex 25229 The Right Stuff Gasket Maker, 3 oz.: Automotive
any difficulty removing the starter?
No, it's all pretty easy. Just be careful prying the pan off the block. You need to break the seal in multiple places. If you pry on just one section, you can bend the lip of the pan.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; May 31, 2016 at 02:07 PM.
I have this set. It works great. https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/p...E-SCRAPER-SET/
A prybar will be too thick to get in there. The scraper is sharp and thin, so you can get it wedged in, work a small section loose, then shove it further along and just work your away around the pan until enough of it is loose to pull it off.
A prybar will be too thick to get in there. The scraper is sharp and thin, so you can get it wedged in, work a small section loose, then shove it further along and just work your away around the pan until enough of it is loose to pull it off.
shop messaged me to tell me they are having trouble getting the throw out bearing to engage in the monoloc - they cannot get it in - any ideas? I did have a clutch fork stopper, is that in the way somehow?
:: no more stopper, so not sure - does it just take that much more force for the act monoloc?
:: no more stopper, so not sure - does it just take that much more force for the act monoloc?
Last edited by kyoo; Jun 2, 2016 at 12:31 PM.
I can usually pop it in by hand.
Are they sure it's not staying in? If they pull the clutch fork over too far, you feel a second "click" that feels the same as the first one. It won't stay at that position. The fork will return to the middle where it's supposed to be.
Are they sure it's not staying in? If they pull the clutch fork over too far, you feel a second "click" that feels the same as the first one. It won't stay at that position. The fork will return to the middle where it's supposed to be.
I can usually pop it in by hand.
Are they sure it's not staying in? If they pull the clutch fork over too far, you feel a second "click" that feels the same as the first one. It won't stay at that position. The fork will return to the middle where it's supposed to be.
Are they sure it's not staying in? If they pull the clutch fork over too far, you feel a second "click" that feels the same as the first one. It won't stay at that position. The fork will return to the middle where it's supposed to be.
shop said it's not staying in, just takes light hand pressure for the fork to go all the way back to the passenger side.
said the sanp ring on the throw out bearing has lots it's spring. it's there, pops slightly and goes in. used a ratchet strap to pull on the clutch fork and it put tons of pressure on it, bearing is flush against the monoloc against the plate.
problem is the snap ring doesn't wedge out when you releawse the pressure, so the TOB doesn't catch and pull on the clutch?
TOB issue?
or monoloc issue somehow?
explained it here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-monoloc.html
The TOB is popping in fine and pressed tight against the monoloc - when you release, it springs back to center as expected - however, when you pull on the fork (to disengage the clutch) - it just pops right out again.
said the sanp ring on the throw out bearing has lots it's spring. it's there, pops slightly and goes in. used a ratchet strap to pull on the clutch fork and it put tons of pressure on it, bearing is flush against the monoloc against the plate.
problem is the snap ring doesn't wedge out when you releawse the pressure, so the TOB doesn't catch and pull on the clutch?
TOB issue?
or monoloc issue somehow?
explained it here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-monoloc.html
The TOB is popping in fine and pressed tight against the monoloc - when you release, it springs back to center as expected - however, when you pull on the fork (to disengage the clutch) - it just pops right out again.
Last edited by kyoo; Jun 2, 2016 at 01:23 PM.







