Ok. Let me help you to find out why it broke.
What is the rpm at which it broke at?
What is your red line?
Is your Manley 100mm crank with a 156mm rods or 150mm rods?


If you drive your car and redline it at 9000rpm all day with a long rods setup like that.... It will break anything you put in it.
On a 88mm crank 2.0 or 2.1 stroker, it can handle more to 9500rpm. But with a 100mm crank 2.4 long rods stroker, it shouldn't pass 8500 rpm. I mean you can do that but in the long run it will crack like yours.

Because 4xxhp/3xxtq seems very low to be breaking a forge crank. I would look at my driving and tune for the reason it break.
These Manley forge crank will handle 800hp easily all day long.

 

2.3 Strokers and similar setups don't like high rpm.
Not to much use by pushing it over 8.000 rpm
Rather forge a 2.0 for high rpm...

 

So, they have finally met for the first time

 

So,

Today I did a (cold) compression test on my engine while still in the car before it will be swapped for the 2.3 Stroker.
So the new buyer knows the results. Engine has passed 87.868 km (54.500 miles).

Engine is bone stock, never opened. Plugs are NGK BR8EIX but remapped at 320bhp and 425 NM of torque.
Here are the plugs at sunlight after few years of use



Cylinder 1:



Cylinder 2:


Cylinder 3: (in 2 pictures)



Cylinder 4:

 

This ultra boring build is going further...

Yesterday arrived the Air filter and some pluming parts...









I Also enlarged the vent fitting from the VC to 12mm. (It will go over the OCC system)

 

Some more parts arrived.


I think now I got everything
I know, I said that before

 

OK, 2 weeks ago I started with the swap.
to cut things short, basically all things went smooth.
Put "old" engine out, swap some minor stuff to the new engine and put back in.



















After a long weekend... we continued to work on the car.






I have put WB Sensor for accurate readings



First oil Change after 100km. I used mineral oil specific 15W40 as recomended from my engine builder.
After that is going 10W40 semisynthetic for cca. 800km or so..
Oil filter feed lines for turbo were very clean. no debrits inside. In a day or so I will cut open the oil filter and inspect it for debrits...



and final picture and short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOrW...ature=youtu.be



now it is mapped just to get over the bedding in procedure for few hundred km/miles. blocked at 4000 rpm... in meantime will change oil again... and soon the final mapping will be at the dyno.

 

So, after successful braking-in procedure and according ND advice, soon is time for some appropriate oil

click image upload

 

Sweet build here! Really looking forward to the final numbers. My build is very similar to yours and i'm also using the Manley Billet crank #190120B.

I've never had to rev my 2.0 liter block past 7k rpm because my peak power on the stock turbo was at 6,500 rpm. I don't plan to rev past 8k with this new stroker motor.

-pal215

 

Thanks, I also don't plan to rev it past 7500 rpm. Don't think it will make sense for a 2.3 stroker with this setup

 

have you sold that engine? If not wanna pm me a price?



Oops nvm jus seen you are in europe..

 

Agreed.

Peak power on most 2.3 FP black builds is made between 6500 and 7250 rpm. There is no need to shift later and put that extra stress on the crank.

I wonder how much stress launch control/2-step puts on the crank

-pal215

 

Few yesterdays shoots

 

OK, some more picture bombardment

Purchased from Ross some of the finest Heat shield material of DEI manufacturer.
Material is awesome and simple to work.
I have cut it on dimension and put on the VC to protect it from heat from the tubular manifold and also made an heat shield for the cam angle sensor and wrapped it also.

I think it looks great

 

Also managed to wrap underside of the Seibon hood and wrapped the ETS intake pipe.