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Its been very frustrating to walk by the car everyday and not have time to finish it. I visited my niece for her 1st birthday last weekend, so I wasn't able to make any progress with the build. I finally got my engine hoist back from a friend, so I now have the tools to drop the Li-ion pack in the trunk.
This is the best pic I can post for now. I should have some more interesting pics of the rear fuse box, Li-ion pack, and power cables by this weekend.
snail's pace
I reassembled the hoist, then dropped the Li-ion pack in for permanent mounting and cable connections. Its a bit of a squeeze, but it fits. In other news, my neat ON/OFF push button failed to open the start circuit, so it had to be junked. Now I'm looking at other options to control the main contactor. More to follow shortly
snail's pace
I reassembled the hoist, then dropped the Li-ion pack in for permanent mounting and cable connections. Its a bit of a squeeze, but it fits. In other news, my neat ON/OFF push button failed to open the start circuit, so it had to be junked. Now I'm looking at other options to control the main contactor. More to follow shortly
testing phase initiated All function-test essential circuits have been constructed
Power to distribution block: check!
Start circuit energizes main contactor: check!
Main contactor closes: check!
Controller recognizes propulsion pack: check!
Unforseen start error: check! hah
Currently working on setting up a data-link to read the error code. This hardware was designed back in the days of Microsoft XP and I have Windows 7 (which doesn't have the serial communication software). The main contactor is closing, so I'm guessing the error light may have something to do with the prius hall effect pedal (which I purchased used and is a bit ragged).
My neato LED ON/OFF switch failed so I had to improvise. Here is my F1 inspired switch panel.
1/8" plywood, sharpie marker, and some cheap 20A switches
Last edited by electron bom; Sep 10, 2016 at 06:32 AM.
I am curious to see how the weight distribution will change overall after you finish up.
I'm also very interested to see. Once it's roadworthy, I will put it on some corner scales. I'm keeping a full interior. Here is my present conjecture:
Starting weight MR no gas : 3220 F/R: 1964/1256 = 61%/39%
Estimated removed weight: 0810 F/R: 648/162
Estimated net weight: 2410 F/R: 1316/1094 = 55%/45%
Addition of electrics so far: 0420 F/R: 195/225
Estimated current weight: 2830 F/R: 1511/1319 = 53%/47%
Projected weight addition: 0120 F/R: 015/105
*Projected net weight: 2950 F/R: 1526/1424 = 52%/48%
*Figure assumes 276V pack, single motor setup ~250wtq.
My motor controller's error light is flashing and the Hall effect Prius pedal is not functioning. I can't read the error unless I first establish a serial connection between the controller and my laptop. I've tried several different USB-Serial adapters and several different drivers, but the best I can get is whats pictured below. I have a FTDI chipset on order, which is rumored to be the best for USB-Serial communication. Hopefully, that does the trick. I've also ordered a new throttle input. I never liked the Prius pedal.
The Tesla accelerator pedal is nice. My issue with the OEM Hall effect pedals is that they don't match the Evo brake and clutch pedals in feel and appearance. An alternative option is to connect a Hall Effect pedal to the Evo pedal with a wire cable, but at that point I might as well be using a cable driven potentiometer.
Have you looked into Mitsu's drive by wire setup they use on the 4g69 and 6g75 engines? Maybe it can be adapted to work somehow. The throttle pedal has a wire but it goes to an APS in the engine bay. The actual pedal feel isnt noticeably any different than my Evo. Just a thought. Might be worth checking out.
I wont clutter your thread with a pic. So here is a LINK instead.
Aug 31, 2016, 06:33 AM
