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I ran the 3076 on a stock bottom end with JUN cams. That boost ramping was to preserve the motor which made it about 80k it hard driving on that setup.
I’m sure on my built motor the tune could have hit harder lower, but who knows. I mean if people want to donate I could put it back on my car and see what happens lol.
Leaning towards the GTX3076R Gen2 then (at the moment, you know how this goes...we've all been through it).
I ordered the kenne bell boost-a-pump because it turns out the 350IL inline pump I am using is rated for up to 18v. The flow curves provided are for 13.5v, but you can run it up to 18v and be "within spec". The company provides flow data for most of their pumps at the higher voltage, but for this pump it isn't published on the site. I wrote them and asked for the data, however I have an educated guestimate based on the other pump data provided. I left those calc's at my desk at work, and will post shortly. It is my belief that the 350IL @ 17.5.v will be fine for the goals I have.
On average deatschwerks pumps gain 33% flow @ 70psi when going from 13.5v to 17v.
The 350IL pump flows 305 LPH at 13.5v and 70psi. A 33% boost in flow @17v would be 406LPH.
If that isn't enough, a plug is included with the boost-a-pump to push it to 21v which would then be technically over-volting the pump. That would definitely solve any flow requirements however....
A .75 BSFC results in a calculated fuel requirement of exactly 405LPH. My guess is it might need the 21v "switch" plugged in.
On average deatschwerks pumps gain 33% flow @ 70psi when going from 13.5v to 17v.
The 350IL pump flows 305 LPH at 13.5v and 70psi. A 33% boost in flow @17v would be 406LPH.
If that isn't enough, a plug is included with the boost-a-pump to push it to 21v which would then be technically over-volting the pump. That would definitely solve any flow requirements however....
A .75 BSFC results in a calculated fuel requirement of exactly 405LPH. My guess is it might need the 21v "switch" plugged in.
Why not just run a wally F90000295? They flow 406lph at 70psi and 13.5v
My custom made surge tank uses an inline pump to pull from the bottom of the 2 liter cube. So my design is stuck with an inline pump. Do you think 405LPH at 70psi is enough? Because it should do that at 17v and it is rated to 18v from the factory.
The other reason to stick with the 350IL is I can have a 3 point "curve".
Under 100 load (or any load) run the pump at 8.5v.
Over 100 load (or any load) run the pump at 13.5v.
Over 20psi run the pump at 17.5v or 21v (selectable by plug on boost-a-pump).
This will allow me to keep the stock return line and FPR.
The other reason to stick with the 350IL is I can have a 3 point "curve".
Under 100 load (or any load) run the pump at 8.5v.
Over 100 load (or any load) run the pump at 13.5v.
Over 20psi run the pump at 17.5v or 21v (selectable by plug on boost-a-pump).
This will allow me to keep the stock return line and FPR.
You can do that with the Walbro too. That is how my fuel pump controller works.
You can do that with the Walbro too. That is how my fuel pump controller works.
Right, but the main problem is that my surge tank design is based on an inline fuel pump, external to the actual fuel reservoir. Looking at any inline pumps that are near that flow rate cost an absurd amount of money and flow numbers far beyond what I need. AEM makes one but it's complete garbage. The big boy ones are meant for big block turbo setup type stuff, and usually come with their own brushless controller. Going from the 18 volt spec to 21 volts at full chat from the boost-a-pump is only a 16% over voltage. And this would only occur if the car's over 20 psi.
Right, but the main problem is that my surge tank design is based on an inline fuel pump, external to the actual fuel reservoir. Looking at any inline pumps that are near that flow rate cost an absurd amount of money and flow numbers far beyond what I need. AEM makes one but it's complete garbage. The big boy ones are meant for big block turbo setup type stuff, and usually come with their own brushless controller. Going from the 18 volt spec to 21 volts at full chat from the boost-a-pump is only a 16% over voltage. And this would only occur if the car's over 20 psi.
So the way I get a three point curve is using the stock lo/hi and then a hobbs 20psi switch for the boost-a-pump to raise it from 13.5 to 17 or 21v.... What is the device you are using for your fuel pump voltage curve?
Flow rate information is IN from Deatschwerks! Honestly they have been beyond awesome. My calcs were not far off, but this is actual flow data that I can trust.
At 27 psi of boost this puppy can flow 448 LPH @ 20 volts ! Not bad. Not bad at all. This puts it above the F90000295 (albeit not at 13.5v).