Need more pictures!!!

 

Im back again and here we are as I chug along two steps forward one step backward it seems..Ive got some good news and some not so good news. Lets start with the bad. Decided to get some more dry ice yesterday and strip off the rest of the sound deadening. The good news is I got another 10# of crap under the carpet out between the deadener and carpet backing material that I skimmed off. The bad news is I found this under my driverside floorboard.



So thatll have to be cut out and new metal burned in. Sorta an unfortunate setback but should be easy enough to mend. Im still working on getting other things buttoned up anyway so its not holding me back yet.

In other news, I included a teaser shot above so here is the rest of the details and what I've been busy with in the last month since i got my short block back.

Inside the crate. Honestly one of the coolest things I've "opened up" in my lifetime haha!


On the stand


Oh hello there



Clean looking surface ready for hg (I dont know why image will not flip over!)


Fresh headstuds and headgasket


Head torqued down


Cams installed and other misc bits


Crank Scraper and oil pickup





Oil pan needed some more room for the ER oil pump gear





Timing belt stuff coming together


Installing map sensor for new boost gauge






Power steering cooler with brackets and lines finished. Took me a lil bit to figure out how to make something that was simple uses existing holes and suspends the cooler in rubber to keep vibrations down.


Some other brackets Ive been working on to mount my oil pressure sending unit as well as heat sync and resistor delete plug as well as the relays and my hobbs switch for my fuel pump. I might move that but its fine there for now. I ended up painting the abs module too since i saw it was starting to have surface rust from sitting on my work bench for a few months.


Oil pan glued on and engine almost back together.



I still need to time the motor and I plan to degree the cams as well. from there its install clutch mate trans and get it back in the car. Im still waiting on my turbo kit too and have to finish some wiring for fuel modifications plumb the accusump tidy up some other stuff. Oh and of course figure out what Im going to do with the rust I found last night.

 

Great work Eric. Motor build from ER looks amazing

Yeah, Driving the EvO (or any car),in the cold winter months, where the use of di-icers is used is hazardous to metal & electrical components. (i work for an OEM, Ive been dealing w/this type of report for years )

 

Coming along nicely. The zinc plated stuff definitely looks good and I'm curious to see how that oil pump gear works for you, I don't think I've seen anyone use one for a road race car yet.

Where are you plumbing your accusump in? I've been piecing a kit together earlier this week and was thinking to tee into the return line from the cooler but if there's an open port for the main galley that be more simple and easier.

 

Thanks Joe, I hope it performs as well as it looks! Maybe one of these days I'll be able to get to the bottom of that

Regarding de-icers, yep I know that all too well unfortunately. It sucks bc the car has been garaged its entire life however served as a DD for 10 years in New England weather rain or shine. I used to even bring it to the car washes in the winter specifically to use the undercarriage wash although I've read conflicting arguments on the topic that state it may be worse as it liquifies the salt and allows it to creep. In the case of my floorboard that is just a result of repeated moisture as it would melt from my boots. There are 0 signs of it, looks fine from below and would have never known if I didnt strip the deadening yesterday.
Thank you! The gear should help since Im planning on setting my limiter around 9400. Between the oil pan the gear Accusump HLA and a few other lil things Im hoping oil pressure will be more available when needed.

I havent finished plumbing the accusump but if you look at your OFH there will be 2 brass plugs on it, one is pre and the other post filter. The post filter port is where Im running it and Im using the pre filter for my oil pressure sensing unit.

Here's a closeup for you



Im sure youve seen this although I believe he put his on the pre filter port. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-accusump.html

Im using the same port many folks lubricate their turbo from if they dont pull it from the head. See here on FP's website: http://www.forcedperformance.net/mer...vo_Oil_Install

 

In the quest to drop the weight my SSL is slowly disappearing. For example my stereo no longer has the sub or rear speakers. When pulling it apart yesterday I weighed the factory amp under the driver seat and was shocked to see it weights in at 4.7#. At this point I question keeping it. The thing is I dont want to completely get rid of my stereo but I know there are mini amps that could possibly fill this void or I just power it by my deck and call it a day. Anyone with a recommendation there?

Also, my backseat is stripped however I never pulled off the door cards. Does anyone know what they weigh as Im tempted to pull them off too?

 

Haha that's a pretty high redline! Yea I'll have a similar oiling setup as you minus the oil pump gear, hoping to avoid moving to a dry sump by all means but we'll see.

I use those ports for my oil pressure and temp gauges but it'd be easy to move them both to one port. My only concern with going to one of those ports is you can't control which way the oil flows. By teeing into the cooler line you can put a check valve in line to make sure the oil only goes to the oil galleys and not back into the oil pump. Though it might be possible to still throw a check valve in the cooler line to prevent that, I haven't really looked at all the ports on the OFH to see how they're connected.

Also I was planning on using an 8AN line instead of a 10 because the 8 is already larger than the ports on the OFH.

 

Yeah lol it is indeed. The gear is supposed to be beneficial especially in the high RPMs as the oil pump is spinning like crazy and building unnecessary pressure and draining the pan. Regarding the high limiter my car is still primarily an auxo-x car so I was always struggling the whole smacking of the limiter. My old limiter was set to 8300 so I knew my new motor had to be able to support more revs than that to gain some MPH and hopefully save the valvetrain. Most of my valve stem seals were toast and chilling in my oil pan when I pulled it apart. I dont plan to rev the car out to 9400 any chance I get, power will prob be falling off at least 1000RPM prior but if it can save me from not having to shift and not keep hitting the limiter I think the engine will be happier.

I get what youre saying about the check valve but Im not sure its required in our application given where the oil is fed back in. When you read about accusumps some people are adamant a check valve is needed and others not so much. And yeah I think youre right about the line size requirements. I wish I knew that prior to ordering my supplies bc -8AN is cheaper and the line will be smaller and more flexible to make routing it easier. Oh well Im over it.

 

I was thinking some more about it last night and if I'm thinking about this right, if you were to plumb the accusump into the post filer port it would also be post cooler so if you put a check valve on the return line for the cooler it'd essentially be the same as teeing into the return line but require less parts and be a bit cleaner of an install. I'm going to try and find an OFH to check out and see where those ports are connected.

 

What makes you think the oil would go backwards? I guess I dont understand why it would do that since the accusump is pressurized all its doing is filling in the void when the oil pressure drops. Wouldnt it then be working again the pressure the oil pump is putting out thus rendering it useless?

 

you sure that's enough clearance on the oil pump gear? things can vibrate pretty good can't they?

 

It's not gonna move

 

The picture makes it look closer than it is. That gear aint moving though. If it has enough play the oil pump has failed and motor is donezo anyway. I got my short block back from ER with the oil pump/ front case already installed and clearanced so I basically just mimicked my cut on the pan to the room they made on the case. Hoenstly the angle of the picture I took is poor and makes it appear to be close, which its's not.

 

When you drop pressure you're dropping pressure between the pump and everything it feeds. The pump isn't putting out (enough) pressure so without a check valve some oil will go back to the pump and some will go to the main galley and everything else it feeds (assuming you've got it plumbed into the OFH). Feeding back to the pump won't hurt anything but that's less oil to be pushed towards the main galley.

Oil pressure isn't what keeps engines alive, it's the oil film itself and the pressure provides the supply to keep the film there. Making sure all of the oil from the accusump gets pushed to the right place is paramount to it working properly.

 

I get what youre saying and totally agree that its not pressure that lubricates but rather the film strength of the oil and better oils will have better film strength to be able to sustain adhesion when pressure falls off. However, lets forget about that for a second because Im still confused, well maybe not confused because everything you said makes perfect sense but maybe Im missing something.

Fluids travel the path of least resistance. Even if the pressure coming from the pump is minimal wouldn't the oil from the accusump prefer to travel away from the pump?

Also, as Im thinking about this it makes me wonder if having my oil pressure sending unit tapped into the OFH might possibly give me a false sense of security? Would I be better suited attempting to move my dummy light to the OFH instead of back of the block and moving my sending unit for my gauge to the back of the block instead?