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Thanks for the details! I just thought more on this, with decking, it should allow more timing belt slack to tighten up, so cam timing should be retarded. You probably advanced your gears by 1 tooth to have it retarded.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jul 5, 2018 at 10:23 AM.
Wait what are you saying? Im beyond sick of the degreeing process so I've basically called it a day at this point. Both cam gears ended up being advanved. I thought bc the gear retards timing you need to advance the cams to match it? Are you now also saying Im one tooth off? Bc I already went through this process for days now any everytime I timed how it "looks" right the numbers were like I posted on the top of the chart. If I tried playing with how the belt was setup it would look way off, as in not even close. When the belt is 1 tooth off it looks the part so unless Im missing something I don't see how it could possibly be timed wrong.
Sorry, for the confusion. What I was referring to is the logic. Decking shortens the distance between crank pulley and cam gears, so the timing belt sits retarded from the now longer timing belt position.
Don't worry about the actual timing tooth since you are lining up with timing marks, so you set it to what's closest and go from there (which is what you're doing). You should be good.
Ok no worries and thanks for the followup. Honestly, I've been so bitter about the degreeing process. It started off as a novel idea but then it quickly turned into a giant PITA between finding 2 solid lifters to making the adapter tool to buying degree wheel and dial indicator extensions all the way to trying to position the pointer on a retainer that is not even close to flat. So I think I did a decent job but it wasnt as much of an exact science as I would have liked it to be. All in all I think Im fine and can move on. I really just wanted to make sure there would be no P2V contact and wasnt giving up easy power so figured I'd give it a try.
Bottom line is to find out exactly when your valves open in relation to TDC. If you have oversized intake valves, aggressive cams, and high compression pistons, you need to know how much degrees of play before your valves meet your pistons in an unfriendly manner.
Lol so I actually didnt end up measuring P2V and here is why. The main reason was well, I was being lazy and didnt feel like installing a test spring. So my assumption was set the cams close to the card and they aint hitting. Sure the R2s have 12mm of lift which is a lot but at same time my new pistons have massive valve cutouts. I could probably advance and retard both cams say like 5 degrees and turn motor over by hand but did I mention lazy already!? Its bad Im on the home stretch here and trying to do things proper but some things Im just not sure is worth the effort. ER has run this setup like a million times and they just advance them like 2-3 degrees and go fast with no issue so do I really need to get way deep in the weeds? Mehhhh
As for pics of the marked up degree wheel...funny story I even went through the effort of stealing a red and blue dry erase marker from the supply closet at work for exactly that. Red for exhaust blue for instake, perfect. Then completely forgot to even use them and wrote all my numbers down on my computer instead. So no pictures for you!
Admittedly I suck with updates, so sorry to folks those who are following along and are sitting anxious in their seats wondering what I've been up to. But Im back with minimal updates because the reality is that life has been getting in the way of me locking myself in the garage...
But I have made some progress and am getting close to dropping everything back into the chassis. Due to my ATI crank damper the required accessory belt is slightly larger than what I used previously so that entailed buying a few belts and test fitting until I found one that works well. Im sitting at work so I do not have in front of me which belt size I ended up using but I will update that later so if someone else plans to run the ATI with no AC they will know which belt to use. Also, worth noting due to the size of the ATI the lower timing cover required some trimming to make it fit.
Pic with ACC belt installed
Fuel system updates have been completed. Im done with my rewire which included a low and high voltage circuit wired to a HOBBS switch and I also installed a larger Walbro fuel pump the 274 high pressure version. That was pretty straight forward thanks to other folks on here who have documented the process. If youre comfortable with a cutoff wheel and soldering the modification is cake.
All apart before getting hacked up
Bingo!
Oh almost forgot...when wiring the fuel pump I was looking for a cool spot to hide the relay. I despise seeing exposed wires so I wanted to tuck it in somewhere and seemed under the center counsel seemed would be a good spot. And then I had this brilliant idea to put it in the center counsel tucked within the ash tray, haha! Totally silly but I got a kick out of it and kinda think its cool having it tucked in there with it's little access door, lol!
Bolted in
Minor trimming
What else is going on hmmmm...oh I finally laid my hands on my new turbo kit! Got it mocked up the other night and then sadly packaged it back up and its off to be coated. Im going with the Swaintech White Lightning product as it seems to be the most impressive of the coating. Honestly Im not too excited about having it coated since I love the look of a raw manifold but over time it'll probably look like crap so now is the time. Not to mentioned there are some performance benifits to these coating in both keeping engine bay temps down as well as keeping the heat in the manifold. The manifold turbine housing and O2 housing will be coated. I hope to have that ll back within the next month as they said its about a 3 week lead time plus transit time.
Oh hello beautiful
As I said Im close to getting ready to drop it back in so this last pic is showing where things currently stand. Its not a great pic but you can see the engine new clutch trans and chassis so thought it was kinda cool.
That's all for now. I hope to get engine dropped in maybe this week if not this weekend. And I'm taking a week off from work next week so hopefully my next update motor will be installed and I will be that much closer to completion!
Lol shut it! I'm not going very fast right meow but she will once shes done I hope...
Originally Posted by ayoustin
Which EFR is that? I've been a huge fan of EFR stuff for years. Also, did you change any of your gearing when you had the trans refreshed?
Yeah I've wanted an EFR for years too but could never justify the cost. I still can't but oh well should be fun. Not sure if I mentioned it in this thread but I have BBK Full and was planning on going one step up to their Dom 2.0 or whatever its called then shifted plans to this EFR which is a 7670 that is internally gated to keep down noise. External gates are cool and probably the "better" setup but this should work fine.
As for the trans its the stock FD. I didn't want to do the 4.11 and although the 4.31 seems like a great compromise Im hoping with my higher limiter I'll be fine. According to my cacs upping my limiter to 9400 from 8300 gives me an extra 10MPH in 2nd going from 69 to 79. And I forget what I did for 1-5 but think its like the "typical" combination of both VIII and IX gears. I know Jon replaced a couple of them due to wear but Im looking at the invoice and its giving me a headache. It looks like he replaced 1st with an IX gear and 4th with an VIII. So Im guessing 1st and 4th gear weren't in the greatest shape after 116k on them which is pretty impressive honestly.
Wow, this is a lot of work!
You may want to look into making a solid wire to the plug inside the tank. I recall that Pal215 tried a few different heat shrinks and found that all of them fall apart when exposed to E85.
Thanks! I recall seeing Pal's post on that but didnt realize he had further issues once switching to a better heat shrink. I was trying to find something that is rated for fuel use but failed finding something that specifically mentioned it. The stuff I ended up using is heatshrink that I already had from my ACD rewire back in the day and its seems to be pretty robust stuff, adhesive lined yada yada. This is the stuff I used: https://www.prowireusa.com/c-57-raychem-scl.aspx
Ill check it to see how its holding up after some time. I'm curious however if the heat shrink fails what happens? Its not like its really going to spark and ignite the fuel. The vapors would have to ignite so the hanger would have to not be submersed at that point. Seems like a perfect storm sorta thing but it is something I was concerned about.
If you know where I can get a pin for for both sides I'll gladly replace them with 1 solid wire.
I hope...