I know we talked about it, but remind me which side of the oil filter did you run the Accusump? And which port was that? I have an accusump, lines, fittings, both ball valve and manual valve, and mounting brackets all on a shelf. Really thinking I need to install it if nothing else than to just increase oil capacity by 2qts.

 

Dallas see below. You have an IX so your OFH is different than mine but to answer you question I went for the post filter side (or at least I think I did!) And keep in mind, I opted for the 3qt unit but you will not be adding 3 quarts of capacity as roughly half will be filled with air. Maybe add in lines and youre close to 2qts. Just wasnt sure if you have a 2 or 3qt unit. Either way if you have it go for it and it would be great to find out if you see any benefit.

 

Is that steel line for oil pressure? One thing i know I need to do is get the oil pressure sensor off the motor. I've already killed one from vibration. I also really want to do the ER pump gear since that almost perfectly accounts for deck height in the cam adjustment. needed for a 2.4 based motor. Its just that grinding of the pan thats keeping me from pulling the trigger there.

 

Correct, that braided line is indeed for oil pressure. My last one was solidly mounted and while it worked I've been told its not ideal thus new line!

And why are you against grinding on the pan? For all the cool sh*t you build youre afraid to make a little cut? SMH it was cake, couple zips with a cutoff wheel and youre in business

 

Lol, well you got me there.. Mostly I don't want to pull the pan since that's not a fun job getting to reseal in the car.

 

Lol fair enough. But hey dont you pull your motor like every other month?

My pan better seal bc Im thinking the same thing. And I HATE oil leaks! Maybe one of these days Ill see if it holds; hopefully sooner than later...

 

I hate leaks too and I have a damn mystery leak that I cant find at all. Its right at the OFH and cover. Ive pulled the cover and timing belt twice to try and find what could be leaking. Its not coming from anything in the front case yet its some how runing down the edge of the timing cover. Ive also pulled the OFH to replaced the gasket there and check all the lines, but its just not clear where that damn drip is coming from.

Maybe pulling everything apart and putting it back together will fix that and give me an excuse all at the same time..

 

Did you put thread sealant on the motor mount bolt that goes through to the oil return galley?

 

Oh god that reminds me of what I went through for literally years on my original engine. I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the oil was coming from. I found some of these pictures that show some of the mess that was made in that same area as you are describing. There are a few bolts that go into oil galleys but I'm told that is only the case with certain blocks. For example bolts for the tensioner supposedly do but when I looked at mine with a flashlight they didnt appear to cut into anything. There is I wanna say either one or two of the bolts that mount the side engine mount that require sealant

The only thing that I never pulled and replaced/ resealed was my oil pan actually for the exact reason you mentioned above bc, well it probably sucks doing on the car, lol. At one point I thought perhaps it was my HG after all these years but that didnt fix it either. I wish you luck but I also feel your pain. If my new motor leaks Ima be pissed, lol!

EDIT: IDK why it linked the pictures like that but take a look at this thread I created here to show my struggle. There is actually some decent info in there on oil leaks as you're not alone; many of us seem to struggle pinpointing exactly where it was coming from. Disregard the title as I attributed that to my valve stem seals which clearly had seen better days. Hopefully my new 9400RPM limiter will save those moving forward!

 

I've resealed my pan with the engine in the car. Definitely not fun but I've found that if you use a bungee cord to pull the turbo drain pipe towards the front of the car it makes it a lot easier.

 

9400rpm? Wowzers!

 

looking great keep up the good work!!

 

Thanks guys!

So as always I've slowly been chipping away where I can. Finished fuel pump rewire, so the last thing I need to accomplish fuel related is hacking up the housing to fit my new pump. From there I need to finish mounting and plumbing my Accusump cut out and patch that rust in the driver floorboard and finish getting the engine back together so I can plop it all back in.

One of the things that Ive been working on this past weekend was degreeing my cams. Between the combination of my head being resurfaced twice now, block being decked the ER oil pump gear and the fact that engine was on the stand it seemed like a good idea. Now I've never done it before so there is a learning curve but the concept is pretty straight forward. Anyway since pictures are nice here is a picture the engine with degree wheel mounted up. Ill be playing with the cams again this afternoon so wish me luck!

 

Smart! My guess is you're 2 degrees advanced and will need to retard some, especially your Intake since those are bigger and closer to pistons.

I forgot you have a larger oil sprocket. That changes everything. Do you know if the sprocket is a whole 1 or 2 teeth larger in circumference? From what I can find, it looks like ER sprocket takes up 1/3 of a tooth. So my guess is youre about 4 degrees retarded on your cams.

 

Made some progress in the past couple days. I've been going crazy trying to degree my new cams. This was my first time degreeing cams so there is a little bit of a learning curve. The concept is easy but there are some things to take into account and possible sources of error so I did my best to be methodical in my approach so the numbers would be accurate. Anyway, when I first measured I didn't believe the numbers since they seemed so far off from where they should be. Then we were thinking maybe my I set the timing wrong and tried resettling the belt at least a dozen times. Then I decided to try measuring with the OEM oil pump gear to see how much closer it was then. Long story short I wasnt as far off as I thought and my numbers which at one point I thought couldn't even be close to true actually seemed to be fairly decent.

Like I said this was my first time doing this so I wouldnt treat my numbers as the gospel but I think its close enough that I trust the numbers and Im going with it so one more thing crossed off the list!

I followed along with this video from Jafromobile; I think he has some great videos on YT so if you haven't checked him out I'd recommend you do so!

Here is the adapter tool I made to mount the degree wheel per his video. I tried making an adapter with some hardware and spacers but that didnt pan out so I did exactly as he did which utilized an impact socket and m14x1.5 bolt to attach to the crank and then the other side is tapped to 1/2-20 to accept bolt for the degree wheel. Drilling and tapping tool steel is fun btw; I was super close to snapping the tap while cutting threads but managed to get it out unscathed



And here is what I ended up with for measurements. Its not perfect as there are many places to add in error but its close enough for me! And the degree numbers are my best guess since cam gears are only divided by the degree. Intake was right in the middle between 3 and 4 but exhaust I found the best results favored towards almost 5 degrees advanved.