I was trying to share knowledge of the concept of scrub radius and how that affects torque steer. All those links touched on that.
The point to reiterate is that the axles were close to equal but the vehicles still experienced torque steer. That is why the engineers came up with solutions to deal with it.

Evo Rear axles are not equal in length. There is a small difference of a couple inches there as well. I wish they were the same length so I could just put new axles in without thinking but alas that is not the case.

Anyways, if you can mitigate torque steer with this approach then more power to you.

However, debate is what drives the forum.

 

@deylag
I appreciate your input and didnt mean to sound like I didn’t (if it came across that way) . Sometimes typing on the phone things don’t come out the way we intend to . Especially when I’m starting a sentence pausing for a while then coming back were I left off lol.

I don’t know for certain how much of what I’m doing will help, just trying to do what I think is easiest and least cost .

The largest of my worries for the rear setup are the control arms . I’m going to be moving the control arm camber adjustment “box” closer to the wheels . Although it will be about 2.5” on each side , this may be affecting the roll center . So I may need to also drop it down a bit . From my measurement, I think there is about a 5* or 5.5* degree angle . And trying to do some calculations , I believe I will need to lower the camber bolt “box” down about 0.25 inch .

 

Based off the drawing this is what I got:

 

Am I right to assume if I am pushing out the control arm camber bolt bracket closer to the wheels then I need to lower it to maintain correct geometry of the suspension or not screw it up too much? From watching all these online clips talking about roll center etc… I assume I’m correct in needing to adjust the bracket down. Anyways…

Here is a photo of the Oem control arm and eBay some cheap eBay ones . Essentially I will need to modify the eBay control arm to be the length in the picture measured center of the putter bushing bolt hole to the camber bolt hole center . Oem is about 15 inches and my goal is to modify it down to 12.5” inches. I can cut off 3/4 “ from the two areas covered in tape and it should be sufficient to have enough threaded in to not still hold strong .





The problem with the eBay ones that the bushings towards the wheels have bolt holes that are too small. Also the wholes with the bushings pressed in are too small to press in the oem bushing .

Option 1: should I just widen the hole about 3mm to press in oem bushings ? I would need to get inner oem bushings only as the two outer ones are much bigger .

Option 2: Find bushings that can fit and be of my specs needed . Any recommendations where to search other than eBay/Amazon lol . I need something like 34mm diameter, 50mm thick and bolt hole 1/2” inch.

 

Modifications of the eBay control arms have been completed . It’s been cut down to be about 2.5 inches shorter and the holes of the two bushings at the wheels end have been widened. I decided to use 15/32 drill bit instead of 1/2 inch to make it a little tighter fit as the bolts are 12 mm (if I’m not mistaken) .

But there is an issue . The two bushings don’t line up exactly to the oem bushings . It’s about a couple mm narrower on the eBay control arms .

Will this be an issue ? Perhaps widening the holes to 1/2” may be better ?

 

Thanks to Dan at Diamond Race Cars in Ohio , for helping build this rear subframe . It’s essentially the same as the rear tubular he offers but with the control arm brackets further apart (closer to the wheels) . Also most of the other tubular bits were not needed for me and left out.

The angle of this photo might make it look more wider than it is. But it’s about 2.5” closer to the wheels on each side .




I don’t know why I didn’t ask to have the straight tube added . So I did it myself . Afterwards I cut off the tube portion I don’t need for maximum clearance .


.More to come.