we need to find a pic of our loading nightmare last season! it required 10' ramps on top of the 7' door with a 4x4 and a 2x4 under the door. it was such a PIA!

 

It might get to the point where the front end needs to be just as functional as it is removable. It starts to suck when you have to put so much re-enforcement on it to keep it in one piece that it literally takes 20 minutes to take off.

 

Yep I know last years car required running it up on a 2 x 6 board, then up onto another one just to fit a racing jack under the car, and to get it on the trailer it was a couple of 2 x 10's up to the ramps and removal of the front bumper to get on.

This years version is going to sit even lower... May have to invest in one of those fold flat hydraulic trailers.

 

We're going tube frame front end so hopefully we an build a trick system that is stiff and easily removable. Luckily we're not going any lower.

And we're going with external jacking points

 

Only about 1lbs per side in the rear shaved vs power regulators. Im ok with it. Still have to start unpinning the resulting unused wiring.

 

A pound here a pound there and it adds up.
Since ours only has to have the front windows down, and rears up,I was thinking gut the back and pin the glass in the up position. Maybe a few more oz.'s lost.

 

Not really weight reduction, but a bit of a surprise today, and one not so good one yesterday.
Bad first. Put the rear diff in the front passenger floor of the truck to take home and check if it needed restacked. Bad move. At the first stop sign if flopped over on it's side and dumped all it's fluid on the floor of the truck. Most of it got caught by the floor mat, but not all. What a mess.

Good surprise, I took the diff apart and found out it isn't stock. It's got a 12 plate unit from TeamRip. Guess we'll be doing a diff swap.

 

I'm thinking of the same. Using poly for windows and using the seatbelt-strap method to roll them up and down. Since nobody rides in the back of the car any more, I don't need anything other than the skins, really. It depends on the amount of weight saved. Swapping glass for poly wasn't really worth it for me. It saved about 3lbs or so (I know it adds up) but I do crack the rear windows when I drive with my fronts down, in order to prevent that weird buffeting thing that goes on.
But, if going to lexan AND gutting makes a reasonable difference, than I may just pull the trigger.

I really need to add up all these "not worth its" to see if they are worth it, once all is said and done.

 

I think thats what these rear window vents are for. Just gotta park inside otherwise small animals and moisture/crap will get in.


I can't remember if i read about this or if it was a shower thought, but replacing all the non structural bolts/hardware with aluminum variants would probably shave some decent weight.

 

I'd use the vents for track days, yes. I guess I could use the open setting for "vent" while cruising around. One to vent, one to close. Pretty easy.

 

not sure if this has been mentioned but the topic of windows, doesn't the rs use lightweight glass? If so I'm not sure the difference but I'd be willing to pull of and compare my gsr and rs windows if anyone's interested..

 

ive never heard of that before.

 

Yeah I dont think that is true; at least not something I've ever heard about in the past. It is widely known however that the front evo windshield is lighter relative to the base Lancer.

 

You can get the removable ones for the OEM windows if you keep those. You put them in and roll the window up until it keeps them locked in place. I've run mine for a while now with that setup. I think Cusco also makes them with a foam insert that will keep dust out at least. Not sure about moisture.

 

yeah, I'd use those with the poly windows. I have the OEM window visor thingies that should keep rain out.

Anyone know if CF trunks actually weigh less than OEM?