Curb weight reduction
Mar 6, 2017, 07:18 PM
#91
Newbie
Well more weight reduction, one easy, actually two.
Blower motor case is now 2 1/2 pounds lighter due to the removal of now useless parts.
Or how about a 18 pound weight loss on the rear diff. Buschur Racing aluminum front mounts and chrome moly mustache bar installed.
Blower motor case is now 2 1/2 pounds lighter due to the removal of now useless parts.
Or how about a 18 pound weight loss on the rear diff. Buschur Racing aluminum front mounts and chrome moly mustache bar installed.
Mar 7, 2017, 06:50 PM
#94
Even ordered EvoDan Alternator tensioner rod and am waiting for him to do another run of the idler pulley.
Too bad I cant seem to find the Fairclough Aluminum rear trans mount as well...
Last edited by V.8MR; Mar 7, 2017 at 07:04 PM.
Mar 7, 2017, 07:01 PM
#95
Ideally you remove weight from the front no one will argue, but that doesn't not mean there aren't benefits to removing weight anywhere possible.
Last edited by V.8MR; Mar 7, 2017 at 07:22 PM. Reason: grammar/spelling
Mar 7, 2017, 09:11 PM
#98
lol
Im not saying pull weight off the rear and stop there. I am saying pull weight off everywhere, and then move as much as you can to the rear. Plus most of a cage is behind center-line. But I guess it depends what you want to do with the car.
To make up for the weight loss in the rear one could relocate battery, ACD pump, etc to help the distribution.
Im not saying pull weight off the rear and stop there. I am saying pull weight off everywhere, and then move as much as you can to the rear. Plus most of a cage is behind center-line. But I guess it depends what you want to do with the car.
To make up for the weight loss in the rear one could relocate battery, ACD pump, etc to help the distribution.
Mar 7, 2017, 09:12 PM
#99
Thought to that point I'm not willing to add weight to improved weight distribution. But I am willing add displacement increasing min weight and add weight in the rear.
Of course one of the best places to add weight would be dead center on the rear axle as low as possible.. Like maybe making heavier diff brackets?
My plan is drop all the weight I can up front and ballast that with more fuel to keep above my 2900lb min weight that Im skirting now.
Mar 7, 2017, 09:23 PM
#100
I hear what you guys are saying, but for example I'm not leaving the spare tire and jack just because it evens out the weight in the front. I'd rather make the car light first, then try and distribute the weight in as beneficial a way as possible. Or weight loss in the rear means I can make the cage more stought, or now have weight shaved to account for adding an accusump in the rear. Something like that
Mar 8, 2017, 07:48 AM
#102
Thought to that point I'm not willing to add weight to improved weight distribution. But I am willing add displacement increasing min weight and add weight in the rear.
Of course one of the best places to add weight would be dead center on the rear axle as low as possible.. Like maybe making heavier diff brackets?
My plan is drop all the weight I can up front and ballast that with more fuel to keep above my 2900lb min weight that Im skirting now.
Of course one of the best places to add weight would be dead center on the rear axle as low as possible.. Like maybe making heavier diff brackets?
My plan is drop all the weight I can up front and ballast that with more fuel to keep above my 2900lb min weight that Im skirting now.
question for everyone you two in particular - if you could move the radiator to the rear and get 10-15lbs off front of the car and to the back but it will result in a 10lb weight adder with the additional lines and fan would you do it?
Mar 8, 2017, 08:03 AM
#103
Absolutely. No question I would it if I could make it work in my case. Same with Battery (though now minimal with lithium batteries at ~2.5lbs), power steering pump (electric), ACD pump... etc.
The Evo will always have its cornering limit based on front tires grip so everything you can do to help them is worthwhile.
The Evo will always have its cornering limit based on front tires grip so everything you can do to help them is worthwhile.
Mar 8, 2017, 08:48 AM
#104
Notably, I haven't quite figured out where to get the additional power for the fans yet:
- install second alternator at AC compressor location. Wouldn't work if wanted to go dry sump that uses the same location.
- install larger alternator at stock location. Would just need some custom brackets made and a part number for a reliable, lightweight alternator (as light as copper can be...). Baja trucks might have a good number on this one.
Fans would be from a 2010 F150 (6000cfm) or a Lincoln Mark VIII (4000-5000 cfm). F150 fan would fit better in the trunk area as the Lincoln Mark VIII fan is squareish and quite tall.
http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-te...an-thread.html
Fan controller would be a:
http://www.dccontrol.com/selector.htm
or if a simple Mark VIII design, pull the fan controller relays from the engine bay while yanking out the fan. If run off the same alternator as the car, would not want to have just on/off as it could make the car's idle quite difficult when starting the fan.
Now, whether a booster pump would be required is something I am not sure of. Some of the off road folks do use them and a lot don't. Best place to find research on this are offroaders and baja trucks.
For pulling air: Lang Racing put a scoop in their rear door, some people put large scoops in their rear window, a neat idea would be to put scoops in the rear foot well area to create suction but this wouldn't be class legal anywhere that requires the floor pan to not be modified, you could try pulling suction from above the rear trunk which may help or hurt the rear wing and would put the radiator further behind the rear wheels which isn't ideal.
For exhaling air, making ducting that acts like a diffuser out the rear of the trunk would be ideal. Simple would be to take a hole saw to the rear trunk.
Mar 8, 2017, 10:57 AM
#105
we might need to start a thread about this haha
what about these fans:
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...3-30102048.pdf
they are 2000 cfm and draw 20 amp each.
if you were dry sump you could go mechanical fuel pump and have extra amps from that ...
what about these fans:
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...3-30102048.pdf
they are 2000 cfm and draw 20 amp each.
if you were dry sump you could go mechanical fuel pump and have extra amps from that ...
I've already started working up some ideas for this.
Notably, I haven't quite figured out where to get the additional power for the fans yet:
Fans would be from a 2010 F150 (6000cfm) or a Lincoln Mark VIII (4000-5000 cfm). F150 fan would fit better in the trunk area as the Lincoln Mark VIII fan is squareish and quite tall.
http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-te...an-thread.html
Fan controller would be a:
http://www.dccontrol.com/selector.htm
or if a simple Mark VIII design, pull the fan controller relays from the engine bay while yanking out the fan. If run off the same alternator as the car, would not want to have just on/off as it could make the car's idle quite difficult when starting the fan.
Now, whether a booster pump would be required is something I am not sure of. Some of the off road folks do use them and a lot don't. Best place to find research on this are offroaders and baja trucks.
For pulling air: Lang Racing put a scoop in their rear door, some people put large scoops in their rear window, a neat idea would be to put scoops in the rear foot well area to create suction but this wouldn't be class legal anywhere that requires the floor pan to not be modified, you could try pulling suction from above the rear trunk which may help or hurt the rear wing and would put the radiator further behind the rear wheels which isn't ideal.
For exhaling air, making ducting that acts like a diffuser out the rear of the trunk would be ideal. Simple would be to take a hole saw to the rear trunk.
Notably, I haven't quite figured out where to get the additional power for the fans yet:
- install second alternator at AC compressor location. Wouldn't work if wanted to go dry sump that uses the same location.
- install larger alternator at stock location. Would just need some custom brackets made and a part number for a reliable, lightweight alternator (as light as copper can be...). Baja trucks might have a good number on this one.
Fans would be from a 2010 F150 (6000cfm) or a Lincoln Mark VIII (4000-5000 cfm). F150 fan would fit better in the trunk area as the Lincoln Mark VIII fan is squareish and quite tall.
http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-te...an-thread.html
Fan controller would be a:
http://www.dccontrol.com/selector.htm
or if a simple Mark VIII design, pull the fan controller relays from the engine bay while yanking out the fan. If run off the same alternator as the car, would not want to have just on/off as it could make the car's idle quite difficult when starting the fan.
Now, whether a booster pump would be required is something I am not sure of. Some of the off road folks do use them and a lot don't. Best place to find research on this are offroaders and baja trucks.
For pulling air: Lang Racing put a scoop in their rear door, some people put large scoops in their rear window, a neat idea would be to put scoops in the rear foot well area to create suction but this wouldn't be class legal anywhere that requires the floor pan to not be modified, you could try pulling suction from above the rear trunk which may help or hurt the rear wing and would put the radiator further behind the rear wheels which isn't ideal.
For exhaling air, making ducting that acts like a diffuser out the rear of the trunk would be ideal. Simple would be to take a hole saw to the rear trunk.