I know with girodisc 2pc rotors in the rear I was advised against using the ebrake for anything other than when the car is parked/cold.

Obviously an aluminum hat would not work well as a friction surface for the ebrake. Not sure how good it would even work in an emergency situation with any amount of speed.

 

it barely works when on a slight incline with the giro's. but its still nice to have when letting the car idle to warm up in the pits

 

I really want an e-brake back. even loading the car on the trailer and such is a pain now. small race clutch makes it hard to get a car up a steep ramp.

 

No. We kept the two stock aluminum cross members and went with Buscher Racing Aluminum Diff mounts and Chrome moly mustache bar though. If I remember correctly a loss of 18 pounds there.


Check post 91 for a photo of them.

 

The stock ebrake barely works if the car is moving anyways.

 

I'm with Andy. I wish the ebrake could be retained, as I can see trailer loading being a nightmare now. I've thought about doing a hydro ebrake just for loading and parking on an incline with the car running. We'll see.

Once you go this far you've gotta except that some serious sacrifices will be made.....

 

For all these reasons, I don't think I'd wanna swap out all the rear stuff. I think I'm okay with OEM.

Now the fronts, I'm all over Dallas' stuff. I'll take out a loan, if I have to.

 

I always wanted an RS so I picked up RS window regulators. Could only find the rears so I'm on the hunt for the front set. Should save some weight lol

 

I forgot where I found the info, but I remember looking into that about 5-6 years ago and determining that it was about a net 0 change when you compare the cranks and mechanism vs the motors.

 

Cant be. Not if you take into account the wiring to all 4 doors, and all the window and door lock buttons etc.

 

I'll get a scale once I do the conversion. Having a hard time finding data myself. Shoot my car is basically now an RS anyway so I thought I'd go all the way lol.

 

Wiring and switches are negligible. I decided not worth the trouble, but that's just me. If I ditch my power windows, it'll be for lexan/lift straps.
since I often drive to events, I appreciate the power windows.
let us know how it goes! I'm curious.

 

I've been hesitating on the wiring. But between all the wire for radio/speakers, interior lights, HVAC, door sensors, SRS etc. There has to be more than 10lbs in BS wirring and small electronics to remove. It adds up.

 

I was also on the fence with the rear parking brake until I went to do any kind of axel/hub work back there. 20+lbs of savings (not scaled but in a bucket it felt like) is worth it alone not to mention the PITA taking it off and on, cooling, etc etc etc. There ....really....isn't a solid way of justifying it on a dedicated track machine.

To combat the loading issue you can do several things. First thing I did was get a set of the 2 inch race ramp trailer mates - this solves two problems - firstly it raised the car up so the door cleared the fenders and secondly it held the car enough that I could get out and put wheel chocks. On the old open trailer I did something sorta like this with wood. When things are really steep I already have my cheap pedal depressor for track alignments so I slap that between my legs then I can go chock and proceed with the tiedown (plus the ramps and usually an assistant if it's that sketch).

When I thought about it I was often more afraid of using it then I was confident in using it. I still have it if anyone's looking for one .

 

Come on Shane, we'll use a winch to pull it up and chock the tires. You should worry more about where we are going to find ramps long enough to get the car up on a trailer. That dropped suspension is going to be a killer with ramp angles.