There's those two, my uprights, Ludicrous Speed, and another company. You can see mine in various threads here...

Lots of Geometry that can get fixed with the upright changes, but things to look for are of course roll center adjustment, enough bump steer adjustment for mild to heavy caster and ball joint length, maintaining stock ackerman (some lose or reduce this), stiffness, and last would be weight.

 

Ha! With a build like yours, we're supposed to be the jealous ones!

 

wisefab stuff is 10lb loss per corner.

 

So Like... $80-100 per lb lost?

 

That's solid weight loss with the wisefab stuff.


I hear not running an engine save a lot of weight...

 

My car is currently 250lbs lighter than it was a month ago.

 

Here's the back installed with WiseFab.

 

Ugh, wish the stuff wasn't so expensive

 

Does that stuff come with the F/R subframes or bolts to OE stuff?

 

All the rear upright options get rid of the ebrake. Some people are ok with that, but would def want something even if it was required by SCCA SM ruleset.

 

Ditching the ebrake is prob a big part of the weight savings.


Does SM require a mechanical/OEM ebrake, Dallas, or can you put a line lock in the rear brake lines?

 

Is that actually correcting for any geometry in the rear? What are the advantages of this system in the rear (besides the 8lb weight difference)?

I am surprised they used a straight toe arm due to clearances with the body. Mine "self clearanced"

 

I don't remember if SM requires a mechanical brake, but I know line-locks are not a long term solution. They always seem to bleed off releasing the brake. Not something you want when the assumption is brakes are on.

Geometry worth fixing in the rear is resetting the camber curve and checking the toe change. Roll center could be reset, but its not that critical IMO. I would prefer a little more rear roll moment and keeping roll centers lower. But my real view of the rear is that it just doesn't matter. There too much rear grip (tire/weight ratio) compared to front that putting money there isn't worthwhile. That's why I'm not interested in designing/fabbing something for the rear.

 

funny how that works. My wheels did the same thing, with my lower control arms, at the rear LOL

 

For a racecar, I think a line lock ebrake would be OK. Or you attach the stock ebrake handle to a master cylinder, plumb like a hoon-handle, except it would have the ratchet-locking stock ebrake handle on it.