Forced Performance may still have Comp cams on sale....I just picked up a set of 280's for $250

If you cant spend much, anything you can do to unchoke the exaust will net good gains with the cams.

 

ya I know Eric its the all nights again and sleep over with her after

 

Chuck... I have a post coming, but it is on my laptop partially written, which I don't have with me here at work.

The main point with gaining HP is that you aren't looking to gain it like Wesiford or Eric or David Buschur or 95% of the other Evo owners who are looking to pull on Lambos on the freeway and get higher trap speeds and lower 1/4 mile times. But I think you already know that.

I will tell you that on the cheaper end of suspension you're going to have to do your own research. When I entered the cheap suspension realm the JIC FLTA2s that I had were the end-all-be-all, and now they're crap.

 

Wesiford pulling on lambos and getting higher trap speeds & lower 1/4 times is fun But you don't have to have that much power for road racing or DD

I think for chuck a gsc sc1's would be good or HKS 272's on cheaper suspension I agree with you Jake things change up so much I'm still happy with my cusco zero2e but I don't know if I'd classify them as really that cheap haha but compared to the others kw etc.. there not too badly priced

 

It isn't an issue of having to have that much power, it's great if you can have that much power. True, there are better places to spend money than on power stuff for the track, but when spending money for power stuff you just have to know you're not solely looking to raise your peak hp

GSC S1s would be what I would get (and what I did get... Just never put them in since I decided to sell the car) hands down for the track on a mildly set-up car (aka before you build your motor). 272s will give you more peak power, but the S1s will raise the lower parts of the curve more, higher low parts of the curve = less turbo lag = faster exit speeds. Don't believe me... Drive a car with 500 turbo-based whp and drive one with 500 NA based whp. Assuming all other things are equal (both RWD, both have the same tires, suspension, etc etc) the NA car will pull out of the corner at least a little bit faster than the turbo'd one. Spooling is a *****. Even in a car like Wes' that almost spools at the tap of your big toe. You've all seen that video on the FQ400 on Top Gear where the rental in it's top gear out accelerates the Evo in it's top gear for a long distance.

You and I should do a top gear pull from like 40-50ish and see how long it takes for you to outpull me Wes. I wonder how long I'd survive, I'd guess till about 65-75ish, but maybe sooner, you do have ~200 whp on me, I'm sure.

Anyway, continuing, as far as power goes, your goal should be to get the car to drive like an NA car with high power. The less difference there is between full boost, low boost, and no boost, the better. And other than the cams, the next easiest way to do that is to get things to help you spool faster (all that piping crap people have already mentioned). Once you've upgraded all the cheaper stuff then upgrading the turbo (in my day the TME 6.5 was the end-all of track-turbo-spool performance, now there's way better options out there that raise power AND spool faster). A meth kit is also an option that you may consider after weighing the benifits with the risks, and costs.

For suspesion, yeah (like the rest of the Evo stuff, it changes up all the time), last I did research was when, instead of selling the car, I was going to spend a large amount upgrading the suspension (since the JICs were shot) I was looking at the highend Robi-specs and some Moton Clubsports (probably would've gone with the clubsports) but those are both around the 3000 price range. And I'm sure you can easily get a set of great coilovers for 1500 or less.

Anyway, more to come later when I actually get on my laptop, I was just bored at work! Haha.

 

UT_Evo you sound like a mad car scientist !

 

You're not going to the SCCA even coming up soon?

As far as brakes upgrading your pads from street to track pads will do you well, if you're going to be running better than street tires I would upgrade the rear pads too (which I don't have) since I ate through a set of rear pads using these front pads... In one and a half sessions... All the talk about brake cooling systems and upgrading rotors, well, you aren't going hardcore race, so you won't need that stuff. My brakes never got over cooked and other than the pads the whole system was stock (well, and high heat brake fluid).

And lastly, to add to what I said above. Your BIGGEST gain in speed/lap times is going to be, of course, tires. If you have enough left after doing the injectors, the cams, and the brake pads (and the tune for the injectors, e85 and the cams) then I would skip suspension for now, and buy yourself a set of rims for racing and some R-compounds or slicks. Take-off slicks (slightly used ones) can be found for around 100 dollars usually pretty easily. And will last you well more than 100 dollars worth of street tire events. The problem is that you'd have to buy new rims, and if you get the NTO3+Ms like I would recommend (and so would... Yes, Vesko) then you'd need the extended studs, deep lug nuts and the spacers for the front wheels. But all that should run you less than a decent set of suspension and a few other extra things.

That is, if you want to be faster for less money. Really, you should do suspension first (and most other things), but it won't make you as fast for the money as tires will.

 

6 years under the belt of turning will get you like that. Too bad I'm no good with a wrench or a computer (aka tuning). Otherwise I might have something going for me.

And, compeletly asside just because I wanna say it again... Wesiford. That is all.

 

I win. From work haha

 

Hey Eric I raced Jon's DSM last night and I stayed with it pretty good He was barely pulling on me in one gear lol

 

Hell yea. That's sick! So I wet myself when I rode in Kwins sti. Holy **** that thing pulls!

 

UGH ! im pissed i didn't get to see kwins sti on his new wheels

 

It looks terrible, you didn't miss much

 

Thanks for all the good input. Sounds like you all agree for the most part with my plan. Cams and Injectors are probably my first priorities, then brakes, then suspension. I've already got O2 housing and 3 inch exhaust all the way back with no cat. I also have cone filter intake pipe with no MAF (running speed density, the big bonus of the AEM). How much to the LICP and UICP gain you and what do they cost? Is it really worth the money?

 

Yes you want piping it's worth the money and you want one like buschur for example to eliminate all the extra bends and inches of piping. Uicp for low end torque, licp for faster spool up with o2 housing



Kinda Off topic but not I raced a viper srt-10 with intake, exhaust & hennesy ecu and 3rd gear roll he could jump on me put a few times racing him 4th gear pulls evo > viper I'll edit some vid in a day or so I'm busy with a few things over the weekend baked jake knows cuz I told him last night