Utah Evos
The garages are too expensive when you're trying to save money, but yes, they're far better way to go than the truck-trailer thing, since that'll be cheaper.
5k for a decent civic hatch would be really cool, that'd be a fun little track car... Too bad you still run into the same problem of garage/trailer-truck mix... And you have to find a civic hatch in decent shape. I want one of the mid 90s AWD turbo Eclipses for cheap, I think that would be a fun track car...
5k for a decent civic hatch would be really cool, that'd be a fun little track car... Too bad you still run into the same problem of garage/trailer-truck mix... And you have to find a civic hatch in decent shape. I want one of the mid 90s AWD turbo Eclipses for cheap, I think that would be a fun track car...
what special little project?? evo ix cams??
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
From: utah
I'm stoked...although it is just another Evo with bronze 5zigens...
After waiting for 5zigen to send me some 17x10 FN01RC wheels since January, I finally gave up. Garrett at discount tire in Bountiful is the man though and got me hooked up with 18"x9.5" FN01RCs for a VERY nice price.
Now Nitto is out of stock on the 275/35/18 NT01s though. Hurry up and wait is the name of this game for me. Discount Tire in Bountiful has a set of 275/40/17 NT01s that they ordered for the 17s though. I would bet they would let them go for a great price right now just to get them out of there. If anybody is interested, talk to Garrett there.
Anybody have any other suggestions for tires? They will see limited street use, but will be Auto-X'd and possibly a day or two out at MMP. Along with some drag racing.
275/35/18 or 285/30/18 in size and need to have some form of real thread. Not that painted on stuff like the Hoosiers and Kumhos.
After waiting for 5zigen to send me some 17x10 FN01RC wheels since January, I finally gave up. Garrett at discount tire in Bountiful is the man though and got me hooked up with 18"x9.5" FN01RCs for a VERY nice price.
Now Nitto is out of stock on the 275/35/18 NT01s though. Hurry up and wait is the name of this game for me. Discount Tire in Bountiful has a set of 275/40/17 NT01s that they ordered for the 17s though. I would bet they would let them go for a great price right now just to get them out of there. If anybody is interested, talk to Garrett there.
Anybody have any other suggestions for tires? They will see limited street use, but will be Auto-X'd and possibly a day or two out at MMP. Along with some drag racing.
275/35/18 or 285/30/18 in size and need to have some form of real thread. Not that painted on stuff like the Hoosiers and Kumhos.
Kuhmo V710s as long as you're not hitting MMP too much 03whitegsr.
And Adam you have a response.
Anyone want to buy my car yet?
Edit: And now that I looked at it that Civic is hot... B18c with cams... So tempting but so not worth it right now...
And Adam you have a response.
Anyone want to buy my car yet?
Edit: And now that I looked at it that Civic is hot... B18c with cams... So tempting but so not worth it right now...
Last edited by UT_Evo; May 2, 2007 at 10:47 PM.
It depends on how much you want to spend. I love the Advan AO48. I can make that D.O.T. last extremly long and It keeps giving. Another is Michelin Pilot Sport CUP 2. Both are expensive but offer great grip and wear. Pirellie P Zero are good to. All are decent to drive out to the track on. If it were me I would go with the Advan.
You can insure a car @ the track as long as you are not in a timed event.
The rates are as follows:
3% premium based on the actual cash value of the vehicle. For collector cars and agreed value must be established on the primary insurance coverage and must be corroborated on manheimgold.com. An appraisal may be necessary to properly bind coverage for AV.
The deductibles are as follows:
$0-$25k - $1,000
$25,001-$50k - $2,000
$50,001-$75k - $3,000
$75,001-$100k - $4,000
$100,001-$125k - $5,000
So if you totaled your 25K Evo during a PDX or HPDE the most it would cost is 1750.00. 750 for your premium and 1k for deductible.
The 750 premium is for 1 year of coverage and an unlimited number of events.
The rates are as follows:
3% premium based on the actual cash value of the vehicle. For collector cars and agreed value must be established on the primary insurance coverage and must be corroborated on manheimgold.com. An appraisal may be necessary to properly bind coverage for AV.
The deductibles are as follows:
$0-$25k - $1,000
$25,001-$50k - $2,000
$50,001-$75k - $3,000
$75,001-$100k - $4,000
$100,001-$125k - $5,000
So if you totaled your 25K Evo during a PDX or HPDE the most it would cost is 1750.00. 750 for your premium and 1k for deductible.
The 750 premium is for 1 year of coverage and an unlimited number of events.
I agree with the street car/ track car point.
A street car will only ever be as aggressive as you can handle on the street (for some the suspension i already run is unbearable). You would not want a cage on the street, or spherical joints, custom control arms that rust in the winter, etc.
Plus you have to comprimise on the suspension settings. A race alignment will be hard on street tires, but is beneficial on the track. A street alignment is hard on track tires and will wear the shoulder off quick with little or no camber.
These points are all aside from cost and downtime of a single car that have already been expressed.
I plan on building a dedicated track car (most likely a bmw e36), and to get around the truck-trailer horsecrap i rented a garage at miller.
I love the evolution, but the build on that is around $40-60k, where the bmw will be closer to 15-20k.
I think the moral of the story here is, if you are serious about it, a street car is not the way to go. If you track occasionally, a comprimise can be made.
The one thing in common with both scenarios is that it will not be cheap either way.
A street car will only ever be as aggressive as you can handle on the street (for some the suspension i already run is unbearable). You would not want a cage on the street, or spherical joints, custom control arms that rust in the winter, etc.
Plus you have to comprimise on the suspension settings. A race alignment will be hard on street tires, but is beneficial on the track. A street alignment is hard on track tires and will wear the shoulder off quick with little or no camber.
These points are all aside from cost and downtime of a single car that have already been expressed.
I plan on building a dedicated track car (most likely a bmw e36), and to get around the truck-trailer horsecrap i rented a garage at miller.
I love the evolution, but the build on that is around $40-60k, where the bmw will be closer to 15-20k.
I think the moral of the story here is, if you are serious about it, a street car is not the way to go. If you track occasionally, a comprimise can be made.
The one thing in common with both scenarios is that it will not be cheap either way.
