Its not stiffer, the point of the dampener is so it isnt so stiff that u feel the vibartion through the whole car. The mounts are stationary and do their job just to stiffen the movement back and forth. The dampener will work a whole lot better than mounts.

 

Otter - No Drilling! Strictly bolt-on. Two bolts of the engine mount and all three of the strut bolts.

CarnEvil - The damper itself will be more like a bracket with elastomeric inserts on each end. Any adjustability will only come with changing the durometer of the inserts. Beta testing will establish whether or not my first pick for durometer is in the ballpark. The elastomeric inserts will perform some dampening function, but after seeing my car do the drivetrain lash thing on the dyno, I came to the realization that basically the engine motion needs to be restricted more than dampened - back to the fact that all three engine mounts contribute to drivetrain lash. Limiting the engine motion on one mount will help noticably, I think, but then again there are those other two.

No vibration transmitted to the car is a design criterion.

reTro - I'm not sure that the performance of my upcoming product will be as good as changing out all three engine mounts. Also as stated above, non-transmission of vibration will be important to me. It will be easier to install than changine three motor mounts, however. Also, I don't know what three engine mounts cost, (post it?) but I think my product willl cost less.

death - I got the PM - thanks.

All - Please be patient - in the design life of a product, there is only one opportunity to do design and beta testing. The 2.0 and the 2.4 engine mounts are different, of course, ( ) so two non-interchangable brackets have to be designed. After the product is out is not the time to start on a redesign program because you screwed it up the first time.

- Rob@Zaklee

 

Well you won my cash. No rush on the product, you can't rush quality. Btw, will this be a hard install you think? I'm a newb at installing engine parts (i'm still afraid to install Joe's Pulley then again i don't have the car back yet).
And about the engine mounts, will it help if i filled them like in the Do-it-yourself motormount hardening process? I know it eliminates wheel hop, does it also eliminate or minimize the "lash"?

 

^^ in my app it minimize lash and hop, but it transfered vibration to the dash....

rob atleast in pr the front and rear mounts cost 110 (for both)

 

Im in whenever its done, i can wait for perfection, thanks Rob

 

i highly doubt this will fix the 1st-2nd grind.... the mounts keep the engine in place perfectly, my engine dont move what so ever... i dont see how this dampner will fix the problem considering the mounts make the motor as tight as possible... i think it has to do with the transmission... somebody really needs to look into this problem.. It maybe costly, but the 1st-2nd gear shift is the most important shift (other then nuetral-1st gear). If you hit that shift perfectly, you chirp 2nd gear and really feel that hp and tq like you wouldnt beleive, but with this gear problem, we cant bang the gears out perfectly, so even if its 500,800, even 1100 dollars to fix, im more then willing to pay to get it fixed. Not only should the problem be fixed, but maybe the tranny will be better/stronger afterwards...

maybe roadrace should make a 6 gear transmission for our ralliart, or just modify the evo mr 6 gear tranny to fit our car.... yea i'd absolutly pay a couple g's for that

anybody got any input on this?

 

It has to be a syncro or something, especially if it's happening at a high RPM say you shift from 1 st into 2nd at 6000 and it does it but not at 2500 rPM it probably means your syncro is on the way out.

When it finally does go out you will have grinding every shift unless timed perfectly. This is only from my experience with a previous car where I drove about 20000 kms with grinding only in high rpm only, Then one day it just totally blew.

 

If you're willing to pay that much to get it fixed, then take it to one of the companies that build up the Evo trannies. They'll make it bulletproof, or at the very least, make your 1-2 gears/synchros better. Here's one company somewhat local to me that does it. http://www.teamrip.com/

Here's a short thread from a local Evo that had them do work:
http://www.mievo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=170

Downside is that you'll have to drop your tranny, ship it, wait for them to do it, then reinstall. Would be without your car for a week or two.

 

Hi, All,

I could use some help here.

I need Lancer 2.0 people and 2.4 people to answer the same question for me, please.

- How far is it from the edge of the casting that is the passenger-side engine mount to the cam drive cover? I think it's around 1/4", but since I have neither car in my garage, this is a situation where I can't get this myself.

- It is a hard place to measure, so as an alternative, you may measure from the cam drive housing to the nearest bolt, which is (correct me here, if I'm wrong) the center bolt on a 2.4, and both the front and rear bolts on the 2.0 mount. I have the 2.0 and 2.4 engine mounts here in my shop, but I don't have the rest of the engine, so I can't measure it!

Thanks, Guys, please PM me with results, so I can get on with fabricating my brackets.

- Rob@Zaklee

 

Aww, my answer wasn't good enough?

 

Otter - You have PM.

- Rob

 

-

Damn!!! Will someone please answer Robert's question... I feel really bad about it, I told him I would do it and always ended up forgetting or waiting for my g/f to get the car home.

Please somebody measure this so Rob can finally make the part and sell it to us...

-

 

Hey Rob, has anybody answered your question yet? Has there been any progression on this project yet?

 

Daddy -

I'm making parts, although I would have loved some definitive numbers from all the Lancer folks who, just a bit ago, wanted to start a list for this part. I think I know how far away the timing case is from the motor mount, and I hope I'm right, or I'll have to scrap some proto parts. Again, I could use some Boulder, Denver locals for measuring and fitting. If some Boulder, Denver local can respond here, they are welcomed to beta test the damper.

Maybe I'll just have to buy myself a Lancer 2.4 to get this project fully engineered.

- Rob@Zaklee

 

Rob, that would awesome if ya did. lol

If you can post a pic of the engine bay and circle the two points you want measured I can probably do it for you asap.