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I have a stock 04 lancer ralliart with 172,000 miles on it. I bought it with 158,000 miles. They said they put a new clutch in it b4 I bought it but now it's grinding when I put it in 3rd gear and 2nd gear when the rpm are high. It also won't go into second at all sometimes. Was wondering if that sounds to u that its just my clutch needs replaced or if my whole transmission is going bad? Also sometimes it will pop out of first gear when I softly touch it to switch to second. Any suggestions of what the problem is exactly? I'm hoping it's just a clutch and not my transmission going bad. Or my linkage. I don't know much about cars so asking for some help!! Thanks
synchros are gone, or clutch is dragging (not fully disengaging...for first gear, you may have a bent cable end, worn shidt fork, or worn dog gears on the synchro.
check the oil level and condition, to-up if necessary, bleed the clutch, and report back. DO NOT PUMP the clutch pedal.
For my benefit, when you say not to pump the clutch pedal ( to bleed ?) why is this, due to the clutch possibly not disengaging all the way ?
Alternatives for bleeding would be to use a vacuum pump, anyone know another way ?
ok thank you very much. I don't know a whole lot about transmissions and I was trying to buy new syncors but can't find them anywhere. And the manufacture said I have to buy all the different parts of the syncors separate but idk what all parts there are that I would need to buy for the syncors? Does anyone know where I can find those parts cheaper than the factory dealership?
I think he means just push the pedal down, hold it, then close the bleed screw. Do not pump it lots of times then close the bleed screw.
exactly, doing this would draw air into the system. Also there is no need to pump, as it is not necessary create any more pressure, the system is pushing on the pressure plate springs, and the slave rod will only push so far before it cannot go any further. Brake pistons push on a solid object, and by design of the caliper, back on itself. so pumping can create more and more pressure, especially with old or contaminated fluid, or if there is air in the the system...doing this to a clutch release system can cause the clutch cylinders to fail.
Originally Posted by dturner9020
ok thank you very much. I don't know a whole lot about transmissions and I was trying to buy new syncors but can't find them anywhere. And the manufacture said I have to buy all the different parts of the syncors separate but idk what all parts there are that I would need to buy for the syncors? Does anyone know where I can find those parts cheaper than the factory dealership?
basic parts of a synchronizer are a hub and sleeve (which are shared between two adjacent gears), a synchro ring, and a synchro spring, and the engagement ring...the dog tooth gears (engagement ring) on the side of the drive gear (spins freely on the shaft when not in use) are also part of the synchronizer system, and is what connects the gear mechanically to the synchro hub (which is fixed to the shaft), via the sleeve which is slid on and off the gear by the shift fork. the gear opposite the drive gear with the engagement ring is fixed to the opposite shaft. gears between shafts are always meshed, and are selected one at a time by the synchro sleeve. some gears are dual synchronized, which means they have more than one conical friction ring...
you can buy the OEM parts individually, but you can buy full overhaul kits as well...just google "F5M42 rebuild kit"
the ralliart uses specifically the F5M42-2-R7B5 variant
good times....
