The idea is push roll control from the swaybar to the front springs. Sway bar helps roll, not dive and also increases the load of the outside front reducing grip. You go bigger to help reduce camber loss which is worse than the load gain from the bar. Long story short, there is a crossover between bar and spring but in the end you need enough roll control.

So, more front spring less front bar gives same front roll control but more front grip. I go even more front spring, and balance that with more rear bar. Hard to explain but more rear bar, if it can remain effective, will give more front grip by further reducing front outside load. I wont give exact numbers, that's for each competitor to figure out

One last Easter Egg, the inside rear should come up only at max steady state and under decal. If it lifts any other time you're sacrificing front grip.

 

What exactly is Rick building.?

 

Adjustable mounts for the front swaybar I think.

 

Yes we're designing adjustable front sway bar mounts. With the stock endlinks, the stiffest setting should be ~ 120% stiffer than stock. Using adjustable endlinks, the mounts should allow up to %150. Should have the prototype done in a week or so.

Rick

 

I'm curious as to how this works. You're changing the angle of the links - how does that affect the stiffness?
I understand that to change the stiffness we can reduce the effective length of the bar by moving the link's mount point on the bar.
I understand that a blade bar changes the stiffness by making the arm more or less stiff.

How does moving the mount point of the link to the A-arm change the stiffness? Is this a vector thing? Where a link at 90 degrees to the arm transmits the most force and increasing / reducing the angle transmits less force to the A-arm (and I guess puts the rest of the force back into the arm on the bar by moving the bar inward or outward?)

(Not saying that it won't work.. just saying I don't understand -- and would like to.)

-'chono'

 

Where you mount on the control are is incredibly important to the motion ratio of the swaybar. Imagine one side goes up while the other goes down as in roll. The further towards the inside the mount the less the bar will twist because the relative change on each mount on the control arm is also less. Move it further out and the relative change is increased.

What is the difference from what Rick is making and the cusco mounts available though?

 

Ah.. I see what I was missing. The brackets move the mount point from side-to-side and not fore-aft.

Thanks for the explanation!

And when Rick does something - he goes big. So if the cusco has 4 holes then the ciro will have 6..

 

The CDR mounts will have: Much lighter unsprung mass, extended adustment range to the stiffer end, less vert hight change for the bar position.

Also designed to be used by racers with aftermarket endlinks. The endlinks, with longer bolts, can then be located further out to use the stiffest settings. Much easier than swapping to a stiffer bar. Of course the mounts could be used with a stiffer bar also, and provide an adjustable range of stiffness, including a softer than the stock mounting position. If there is demand we can offer the endlinks also.

Hope to get them on the Berry/Grice mobile for testing.

Rick

 

Nice, Sounds good. I might be swapping back to the stock front bar since I have my whiteline at full soft as it is. Might give the CDR moubts a try and give mine to a buddy.

 

I've got the Cusco mounts with a Whiteline bar. Last event I forgot to take them off the stiffest setting (I had it set there with the stock bar, and when the shop installed the Whiteline, they left it in the same place), and it sucked. This weekend I'll be trying the softest setting and deciding whether the stock bar is going back on. I'd like to see how Rick's product compares.

 

Yep, once you get enough front spring the front bar is only taking away grip.

 

Yeah, I still have 700lb springs in front, which will change soon.

 

send us a set when they're ready

 

So, my coilovers are being sent off soon for re-valve and re-spring. And i'm currently using the rates you recomended to me last year (on EvoEmpire).

Has your opinion changed since last year, anything else i should know before i send them off? SM car, 285 Hoosiers, etc. (probably drop to 275's though). and based off feedback i received in ym thread, i had decided on 14k/15k.

thanks man

 

Quick question: does anyone have suggestions for a good street/auto-x brake pad? My Evo's not in STU but I'm on street tires and make about the same amount of power. Just got back from a local auto-x event and my EBC RedStuff pads couldn't slow the car down enough, also noticed they're lacking some initial bite...