Well Cobb have always made there tunes on the safe side so I guess some people just want to push it a little more to get the most out of the tune.
I know when I had my 2010 ralliart sportback I ran the stage 1 and a drop in filter with no problems it leaned the car just enough but I guess on the evo x the tune is already leaned perfectly.

I have the apex intake but I will waite to get a protune before I run with it on.
I got the perrin panel for some thing till then but after yesterday I took it off and I found some thing very bad.
Perrin say there oil is thick so it won't dirty the maf by leaving the filter but they are wrong there was a little lake of oil in the filter box and i could feel oil on the maf so I got a rag and cleaned both off maf is fine still reading the same I checked the number with the app so that is good.

Well update car feels good no problems after yesterday good thing it was only 1 pull then changed the filter back to the stock.

But still hitting 1 or 2 knock but only 1 time or 2 times when pull 3rd or 4th gear wots from 3000 to 6500rpm.

Might be because of the gas I get here or the alt above sea level I am at now.
I emailed my logs I tried to look at them but excel and google doc did not work.
But when I get back to texas I will take it in for a protune with the apex intake and greddy ti-c exhaust and post the numbers.

 

Checked your logs in the last 1 there was a lot of knock.
Is hitting 1 and 2 on the knock meter that often going to hurt the car?
If so what would getting 1-8 on the knock meter do?
Can any one translate what 1 or 2 or even 4 or 8 on the knock meter relates too?
Would be a big help.

 

1. Knock that appears to be random/non-repeatable and less than 3.
This type of knock you can usually ignore. It typically means your spark map is a
good match for the fuel/boost/modifications that you are currently running.

2. Knock at part throttle, starting at less than 3500rpm.
This type of knock can be caused by many factors, many of which are effectively
“False Knock”, though each will require a specific remedy.

2.1 Low octane fuel, the knock is real, get the correct octane fuel and tune as per
WOT knock tuning.

2.2 Noisy engine/driveline components:
Valve-lash adjusters - These can and should be replaced if they are the problem.
Use electronic DET-CANS to diagnose the problem.
Plumbing rattles - Intercooler, exhaust or whatever. This is the knock sensor
picking up loud engine noise and will require fixing the mechanical fault These can
be somewhat harder to find sometimes. Use electronic DET-CANS to help diagnose
the problem.
Forged pistons and piston slap - Some combinations cause a problem, others don’t.
This is a tough one, short of changing the pistons, it is better to fix with the ECU,
see the FALSE KNOCK section. Note that you can hear piston slap with good
electronic DET-CANS.
Balance shafts removed - Affects some cars, not others. Fix via the ECU, see the
FALSE KNOCK section.
Clutch rattle - Some twin-plate clutches have been reported as causing a problem
and can be difficult to diagnose. Use electronic DET-CANS to help diagnose the
problem. Fix via the ECU, see the FALSE KNOCK section.


3. Knock at WOT not associated with a gear change.
This is generally real knock or detonation and will respond to reducing the ignition
timing and/or using a fuel with a higher octane rating or AKI.
This type of knock we tune out by adjusting the HI-OCTANE SPARK MAP.

See DEALING WITH WOT KNOCK.
It is best to first check that the knock is directly related to the spark map by
lowering the whole spark map above Load 100 by 6° and re logging. If the knock
disappears, or is much reduced, the spark map will require tuning. If the knock
remains much as it was, then the problem is not the spark map.
Light-tune engines having to run on low octane fuel will benefit from reducing the
timing of the cells where knock occurs until it is eliminated. If you regularly have to
use low octane fuel, look into using one of the tephra ROMs with alternate
mapping. These can be setup to accommodate switching between good and poor
fuel. They can also be used to switch between gasoline fuel and ethanol fuel.

4. Knock at WOT that is associated with a gear change.
This type of knock can be tricky to eliminate without sacrificing an otherwise good
spark map.


Search for merlins tuning Guide ^^

 

Just to let you guys know, if you have been following my posts, I have not been able to hit anything above 20psi on Stage 1 at 5430 ft above sea level. This weekend I decided to remove the boost pill and do a couple of pulls. I hit 23psi last night and it was still 90 degrees F at 9:30pm. The car felt smooth and didn't drive any different. I will be doing some logs in a couple days for Bakaunchi to check out. Hopefully he gives me the green light.

P.S I'm completely stock.

 

any news on possible new beta maps to play with ? anything with limiters taken off.. ? or with adjusted air fuel for higher flowing filters like K&N Drop in or similar. ?

i haven't quite figured out the access tuner race program yet. and can't seem to find any documentation.. i understand Cobb has a course for the protuners to attend. my friend ryan went to a course on the gtr for my dad's protune dyno. .. does cobb offer similar courses for access tuner race for the general public?

thx

 

there are no limiters in place
run the K&N and log it if it knocks or fuel trims are too far out of whack learn to tune with ATR or get a Pro tune or E tune

 

Will you be working with Tephra to get this compatible with australian evos?

 

Hey jon! I spoke to marco @ magnusmotorsports and got my ap!! btw: magnusmotorsports have great service...

I am running the Stage 1 91 gsr v300 map and full stock, after a few 3rd gear pulls I am logging knock of upto 4 in some cases! Should this be a concern?

I read your above info about knock but I really have no idea where to start...

Thanks

 

Dont worry about intermittent knock below 3-4 unless its in the same place every time
even then the knock sensor on these cars is really sensitive and just doing its job by removing one degree of timing to combat it

 

Cool, I read abit of merlins guide about knock and it helped me understand it abit. (I am now going to make time to read this whole guide!)

I can see a pattern from my logs is that the knock will start to show @ 5500 rpm range and the worse knock sum is @ or about 6800 rpm to 7100 rpm (this is where it will log a knock sum of 2-4).

Thanks again for the help.

 

Hey Jon, sent you some logs this past week. Let me know if you didn't get them.

 

Just got the AP in the mail but haven't installed it yet. Should I run stage 2 on my '11 MR? Mods are K&N Typhoon and TurboXS tbe. I have a CEL cause my O2 spacer isn't working. Is there a way to disable it with the AP?

 

If you have a full Turbo back exhaust like you said above then the Stage 2 map will turn off that 02 cel. You don't have to do anything but flash the Stage 2 map.

 

awesome. thank you

 

busted off 26 mpg in the city yesterday drove around for about 80 miles no freeway....only got 24.5 mpg on the highway doing 70 tho lol thats on my custom stage 2 tune with 330whp injen intake, invidia TBE