The clutch is a tilton twin cerametallic. Went to an 1/8th mile track last night and I'm having a problem shifting at high RPM. Any thing over 7100 and it won't go into gear. And launching is very difficult. With me hitting the two-step and the clutch pedal fully depressed the car will still move a bit, so I have to hold the e-brake. I got the Two step set at 5800 and it builds about 8psi and then when I launch it almost dies unless I slip it alot but the best 60' I could get was 1.9. I did get it to launch once really well and it took hitting the two step untill it builds 19-22psi and letting it slip alittle. To bad I was not at the track though What I would like to know is if anyone has experienced this with these clutches. And what they did to fix this. By the way best I could manage was 8.89 at 98MPH this was at 5200' of elevation.

 

Theres no way you built up 19-22psi on a 2-step set at 5800. Looking at your hp numbers you probly have a 30 or a 35r. If that is the case, 5800 is not high enough 2-step which is what would cause the car to bogg out if you dont slip it (which is what you should do to an extent). The problem with the pedal could be is that its not adjusted properly. You can change that with a 12mm wrench and raise the pedal higher.

 

There is a way and it's what my whole problem is about. Like I wrote before the car will move when hitting the two-step hence I hold the e-brake, Which produces a load. Where do you adjust the pedal higher at, you do know the Tilton has the Hydrolic release bearing. Are you saying you have a tilton twin and that's what you had to do?

 

I understand how you make that boost now, I wasnt reading it right. But if your building that much boost you should be flying off the line. But now I remember you said it wasnt on the track. You can adjust the pedal no matter what clutch you have. The location is hard to explain, but its near the firewall for the pedal where the connector is for the clutch ignition. Its a ***** to fit under there but thats also cuz im not the average size dude.

 

What is a clutch ignition and what does it look like? After I read your first post I went out and looked at it. I seen some 12MM bolts that were sticking strait up is that what you are talking about? And are you sure they are 12MM because there couldn't be very many under there.

 

The connector that you can disconnect so you dont have to push in the clutch to start the car. Im going to go out to my car now cuz I havent driven it ina while. Give me a minuet and hopefully I can give you better info....

 

Just follow the clutch pedal linkage, if I remember correctly...I loosened the 12 mm nut right at the clutch pedal and turned the shaft on the 12mm nut until you get it where you want.

 

Ok, went out to the car....took me a minuet to get a good pic. But there is a small bracket with the connector for the clutch on it which is the piece that is bent back. You can see the 12mm bolt to the right of the gold bracket. Turn it left and it will lift your clutch pedal up more. See if you can tell a difference in the engagement point. Dont losen it too much or bad things can happen. Just do it enough till you see the difference.

 

That would also make sense on why you are getting locked out at high rpm's, because of how low the engagement point is.

 

Ok, I got it now thanks That is kick *** help that is why I love this forum informed help when you need it Thanks again. I got a race in the morning that is stressing me out and now I got a plan Thanks. Now if I can only figure out ECUFLASH to raise the revlimiter

 

No problem man.....just make sure you test it with regular shifting first (the engagement point)

 

Thanks again! I didn't miss a gear all day.