ECUflash tutorial for beginners
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
I wouldn't go to a dealer and let them know anything about a car being modified lol that's asking for a warranty denial.
Pickup the cable and software and get your immobilizer code from the computer, put that code in a stock flash and update the computer with it.
Pickup the cable and software and get your immobilizer code from the computer, put that code in a stock flash and update the computer with it.
I was looking at the Tactrix site and they have two cables available, an Openport universal Mitsu/Subaru and a Openport Mitsubishi. Which one is everybody using?
Last edited by Xska555; Mar 26, 2007 at 04:37 PM.
I'm just starting this tuning thing. Previously I was using the XEDE. On the Vishnu maps, they lean out the AFR and as a result they pull some timing out of the tune. The leaner the AFR the more overall timing you pick up. The XEDE does this without the ECU knowing that its happening so I'm not sure if I completely understand how this will work with ECUFlash alone.
My fear is that I dial in my AFR to 11.5:1 across the board but in turn by pulling out all that fuel I end up with too much timing. Do most of you end up removing some timing from the high load area in the timing table or do the numbers in the table represent the MAX timing the ECU will allow regardless of AFR?
My fear is that I dial in my AFR to 11.5:1 across the board but in turn by pulling out all that fuel I end up with too much timing. Do most of you end up removing some timing from the high load area in the timing table or do the numbers in the table represent the MAX timing the ECU will allow regardless of AFR?
The XEDE intercepts the MAF signal the same way most piggybacks do. By reducing the MAF signal, you are reducing the airflow the ECU Sees, and as a result, the load it thinks its under. The ECU's maps work in such a way that under lower loads, the timing climbs a bit. So the second part of the tuning with an XEDE (or any other piggyback that also can control timing) is you remove timing by altering the signal to the cam angle sensor. This fools the ECU into thinking its a particular timing, when its actually altered slightly.
The proper way to tune with a Piggyback in mind is to tune the ECU with a baseline that you want to work with, while the Piggyback has no settings of its own (all the tables are zeroed out, or passthrough, however it works)
Later you can modify the settings in the piggyback to alter the sensor settings again, and "tune" with it.
the numbers in the ECU's maps (open loop fuel and ignition tables) are THE timing the ECU will run if there is no knock. Enough knock and the ECU will pull a bit of timing, but that doesn't mean its okay to use the knock control to do the job of a proper tune. (it actually will ultimately work against you by shifting the octane number towards the low octane maps)
Old school ways of working around that was to attenuate the knock sensor so it was less sensitive, or flattening the high-octane and low-octane maps. Both are no-no's and are no longer necessary to get a proper tune.
The proper way to tune with a Piggyback in mind is to tune the ECU with a baseline that you want to work with, while the Piggyback has no settings of its own (all the tables are zeroed out, or passthrough, however it works)
Later you can modify the settings in the piggyback to alter the sensor settings again, and "tune" with it.
the numbers in the ECU's maps (open loop fuel and ignition tables) are THE timing the ECU will run if there is no knock. Enough knock and the ECU will pull a bit of timing, but that doesn't mean its okay to use the knock control to do the job of a proper tune. (it actually will ultimately work against you by shifting the octane number towards the low octane maps)
Old school ways of working around that was to attenuate the knock sensor so it was less sensitive, or flattening the high-octane and low-octane maps. Both are no-no's and are no longer necessary to get a proper tune.
That was fairly clear ... Thank You.
So you are saying it is safe to tune the AFR to 11:5 and maintain stock timing tables....in fact we should be able to add a few degree of timing as long as we don't see knock.
So on average..... what max timing are you fellas aiming for at 7k rpm on 93 octane @ 22psi? What about 100 octane @ 26 psi?
So you are saying it is safe to tune the AFR to 11:5 and maintain stock timing tables....in fact we should be able to add a few degree of timing as long as we don't see knock.
So on average..... what max timing are you fellas aiming for at 7k rpm on 93 octane @ 22psi? What about 100 octane @ 26 psi?
IIRC, I'm in the "teens"area on the 93 octane. But all cars will varry according to your mods, climate, and quality of fuel.
Basicly, add timing till onset of knock once you get the AFR's stable, then pull back 1-2 degrees for safety. With a dyno you can see what is better for your setup. The leaner AFR's, the advanced timing, or the extra boost. IMO, timing is usually the culprit when seeing knock if your AFR's and boost are not that extreem.
this is my timing map from the tune I did last night on my utec
Timing Map
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [17.2] [15.2] [13.2] [12.2] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7]
[-100] [16.8] [13.8] [11.8] [10.8] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3]
[-100] [15.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [14.8] [11.8] [9.8] [8.8] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3]
[-100] [14.8] [11.8] [9.8] [8.8] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3]
[-100] [14.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [14.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [13.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9]
[-100] [12.8] [11.8] [9.8] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9]
[-100] [9.8] [8.8] [7.8] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7]
[-100] [9.6] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [10.1] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [10.2] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9.5] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9.7] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9] [8.5] [8.5] [9.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5]
[-100] [9.7] [9.2] [9.2] [10.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2]
[-100] [9.8] [9.3] [9.3] [10.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3]
[-100] [11.7] [12.7] [12.7] [13.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.3] [14.3]
[-100] [12.3] [13.3] [13.3] [14.3] [15.3] [15.3] [15.3] [15.3] [14.5] [14.5]
[-100] [13.9] [14.9] [14.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.1] [15.1]
[-100] [15.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7]
[-100] [16.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2]
[-100] [17.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5]
[-100] [16.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6]
[-100] [16.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8]
[-100] [17.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5]
[-100] [19.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8]
[-100] [19.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
The verry far right collum is (20-22psi). And RPM's go way past redline so I'll never see where they are in the 20's.
Basicly, add timing till onset of knock once you get the AFR's stable, then pull back 1-2 degrees for safety. With a dyno you can see what is better for your setup. The leaner AFR's, the advanced timing, or the extra boost. IMO, timing is usually the culprit when seeing knock if your AFR's and boost are not that extreem.
this is my timing map from the tune I did last night on my utec
Timing Map
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [17.2] [15.2] [13.2] [12.2] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7] [10.7]
[-100] [16.8] [13.8] [11.8] [10.8] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3] [9.3]
[-100] [15.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [14.8] [11.8] [9.8] [8.8] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3]
[-100] [14.8] [11.8] [9.8] [8.8] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3] [7.3]
[-100] [14.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [14.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9.8] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3] [8.3]
[-100] [13.8] [12.8] [10.8] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9]
[-100] [12.8] [11.8] [9.8] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9] [9]
[-100] [9.8] [8.8] [7.8] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7] [7]
[-100] [9.6] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [10.1] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [10.2] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9.5] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9.7] [9] [9] [9] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8] [8]
[-100] [9] [8.5] [8.5] [9.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5] [10.5]
[-100] [9.7] [9.2] [9.2] [10.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2] [11.2]
[-100] [9.8] [9.3] [9.3] [10.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3] [11.3]
[-100] [11.7] [12.7] [12.7] [13.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.7] [14.3] [14.3]
[-100] [12.3] [13.3] [13.3] [14.3] [15.3] [15.3] [15.3] [15.3] [14.5] [14.5]
[-100] [13.9] [14.9] [14.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.9] [15.1] [15.1]
[-100] [15.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7] [16.7]
[-100] [16.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2] [17.2]
[-100] [17.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5]
[-100] [16.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6] [17.6]
[-100] [16.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8] [17.8]
[-100] [17.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5] [18.5]
[-100] [19.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8]
[-100] [19.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8] [20.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [20.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8] [21.8]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
[-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100] [-100]
The verry far right collum is (20-22psi). And RPM's go way past redline so I'll never see where they are in the 20's.
Last edited by BoostN; Apr 6, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
We should really move any more off topic discussion on "how" to tune as this thread is more for how to get ecuflash running and a more basic topic
Start one here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/fo...play.php?f=129 and pm me so I can suscribe. I'll respond there as not to pollute this one.
but to quickly answer your question, I havent made the 100oct map yet. But guessing about 2-3* more timing if it acts like my subies did.
Start one here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/fo...play.php?f=129 and pm me so I can suscribe. I'll respond there as not to pollute this one.
but to quickly answer your question, I havent made the 100oct map yet. But guessing about 2-3* more timing if it acts like my subies did.
Last edited by BoostN; Apr 7, 2007 at 03:17 AM.







