y do I get 31.9 psi with that?

 

because it is 31.9 psi, lol

 

Because it is the absolute figure, that means it's atmospheric presure 14.5 psi plus the boost, 17.5 psi, hope that helps.

MB

 

time for me to start learning this stuff...i have been wanting to learn and when i found this post it answered alot of questions

 

to raise the boost i should go to boost limit? and for example 7000rpm says 225% to raise it i need to put 7000rpm-245% ???

 

No. Boost limit is the load value where the ECU cuts boost for protection. that map does no change the amount of boost you are running, but it will need to be raised if you increase your boost.

The Boost Desired Engine Load table controls the requested boost. However, modifying this table with a completely stock boost control system will not increase your boost. You will need to add a bleeder or restrictor pill to the lines to control boost with the stock system.

 

ok so i need to have a boost control on this case?

 

A boost controller, modified restrictor pill, or aftermarket boost control solenoid. Using a manual boost controller removes the stock boost control system and you can no longer modify it through the ECU, so the tables I mentioned aren't involved anymore.

 

ok and if i use an electronic boost controller i dont need to use that tables too right?

 

Raise boost how? Do you mean to prevent boost cut or to actually raise the boost PSI? To prevent boost cut most people set the boost cut delay timer to a very large number. Mine is set to 1631950. This removes overboost protection but most top tuners do it this way.

As for boost control, after playing with many various forms of boost control, I can truthfully say an electronic boost controller is the hot ticket. I have a blitz and can go from wastegate pressure to 28psi with a flick of a knob. It has a built in boost gauge, registers max boost, and offers overboost protection that doesn't cause total boost cut.

No popping the hood, no reflashing for a boost change, no special pills, and no need to make 20 different passes to set the boost level. Very easy to adjust to changes in the weather.

I'm not sure why someone wouldn't spend $200 for something so critical.

 

yeah im talking about raise the boost psi

 

Did you ever stop to ask yourself why they do this? I mean why remove something that will help prevent you engine going bang? You can leave the time at 1000 ( thats 1 second) and raise the boost cut load level to 20% above your boost level and still get great boost and no fuel cut in normal use. Just because you've seen this in a lot of re flashes doesn't make it a good idea.

MB

 

so when i do the fuel table and timing etc then i just need to logging my car and if i have more than a 3 knock sum i need to rich i that parameter? of course i need to use a wideband

 

Knock is not just caused by a lean mix. It could be many things, including:

Too much timing advance
Running too rich
Too much boost for the fuel octane
Excessive cam advance
abrupt change in timing
Exhaust rattle (Phantom)
Bumpy Road (Phantom)
etc.

The more you read, the more you'll learn. Take a look at some of the logs posted in this forum and look at the values they are running. Read the comments about these tunes. Only through much reading, questioning, trial and error will you gain a understanding of tuning (young padawan).

You are asking good questions. Keep it up. But, most of your questions have already been answered, so try to run some searches and see what comes up ...

 

im doing it , i dont sleep searching things haha

thanks for you time