How To Tune an Evo
so bumped the idle up and its not doing the dip seems to be great but I'm going to lower it just a pinch cuz on "a closed road" testing it out last night I hit well over 100 get into 5th gear and just let off the gas and slowing down it doesnt seem to want to lol almost like the throttle is hanging. Could be me? I'll test it out again today
As for the not wanting to come down part, I know I've seen it mentioned before and cannot for the life of me recall what it was about and/or what the solution was. May need to hit up the search button for a while...
Cheers-
Erich
Cheers-
Erich
word im on it right now, it's probably me messing with all my idle settings? I'm searching
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
there was a few idle tables added for the IX's that give it a no **** the idle will not come below this level setting.... maybe the viii's have the same thing ?
So for now I'm back to all good and when I get on the dyno again here within a month I'll see how things go
If anyone is running the zeitronix wideband, you can hook up the narrowband simulator wire to the front O2 sensor input at the ecu and you can change the stoich target AFR to anything you like. This is great because you aren't forcing the ecu to jump into open loop, its truly operating in closed loop which is the smarter way to go. Some run it richer at idle to smooth out cams and you can set it to 15.2AFR for better mileage. Works like a charm too.
Here's a link:
http://www.zeitronix.com/questions/NBpoint.htm
Here's a link:
http://www.zeitronix.com/questions/NBpoint.htm
Well, the simulated narrowband switching point is what needs to be adjustable. If that can't be adjusted, the LC-1 won't be able to do this.
Also, if you have an autometer narrowband O2 gauge laying around, you can also wire it up to the zeitronix 0-5v linear output wire by purchasing $0.99 worth of resistors at radioshack. Its not as great as the digital readout gauge they offer for $139, but it may help a few guys keep an eye on their AFR's a bit better.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Jan 21, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
cuz you had me change the 5's to 7's and the 7's to 9's. Just thought I'd ask your opinion before hand.
Last edited by wesside; Jan 25, 2008 at 01:51 PM.
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
its worth a try... the P0300 is such a pain to try and get rid of. You can drop timing and see if that helps. Also maybe gap your plugs a little tighter and check the condition.
Nice I'll drop it and I just threw in some new plugs the other day and gapped at .25the p0300 is a bish it popped up after my clutch install and comes and goes from here to there randomly
hey this is off topic here but you got any pictures of your methonal kit install? I got the aquamist hfs-1 for myself for xmas hehe and soon as I get around to getting a reservoir I'll figure out how I want to mount everything etc.
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
i do but it wont help you... the aquamist kit is tons different than my SMC. There are a few aquamist threads though that will give you an idea of what is out there and how people are doing it.
as far as your gap goes... .025 is good for an VIII. Once you go meth though, it will have to get tighter. My stock gap on the IX is .024 i believe and on meth i went to a 1 step colder plug and then gapped them at .022 and my ignition seems to love it. You may be ready to go to a 1 step colder plug. Get hold of some BPR8ES or BPR8AIX i think they are.
as far as your gap goes... .025 is good for an VIII. Once you go meth though, it will have to get tighter. My stock gap on the IX is .024 i believe and on meth i went to a 1 step colder plug and then gapped them at .022 and my ignition seems to love it. You may be ready to go to a 1 step colder plug. Get hold of some BPR8ES or BPR8AIX i think they are.


