Well put across

 

Thanks good info

 

...higher numbers will be richer now and lower numbers leaner?

 

affirmative

 

Yeah, the higher up the scale, the leaner the mix.

 

here is what i was told and I want to know your thoughts on this:



1) When I review my log: lets say it looks like this:
So what know? I know that in cell 6500 RPM / 220 ECU load I should be at 10.5, so I change that particular cell, and should I also change adjacent cells? if so which ones and to what values?

2) does the same things apply for timing? After i tune my A/F I go into the timing map and start adding timing at the boost section and the adjacent cells (as if it were the a/f) and once I detect knock I will retard the time by 2 degs.

3) MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION:

I have my car set to run 15.5 in closed loop. now I know that I want to run 11.5 - 11.7 at redline, at which point should my A/F read 11.X ? should it taper from 15.5 down and hit 11.7 at the redline? or As i was told "it should taper to 11.5 right before MAP and stay at 11.5 until redline (100 load cell) ?"

I think these are the most basic questions thats should be covered for us Newbies when it comes to tuning

 

the cell at 220 load should be a number that makes your wideband read the afr you want.(I think you are saying the same thing, but I want to make it clear for others)
Then yes, you would want to adjust the surrounding cells so that the 200 load cell has the right afr. If you can't hit that cell then follow the trend. The same would for all the cells around 220. Up down and around. Timing definitely! The same for any set of cells after 100 load. Then run a new log and readjust.
When you look at a log the log will show the hits flowing in an angle. You want to maintain a ramp in every direction, because your line of logged hits could start anywhere depending on conditions.
The practice with aftermarket ecu tuning is to adjust the cells mathematicly for the afr you want, then look at the 3d map and smooth out the bumps and valleys. So you have a rounded smooth map rather than jags and pits. The stock map doesn't have the resolution to do this effectively, but it may help to view the map in 3d to make some adjustments. In the end you will have cliffs and jags but they will be at the edges of important load not in the middle of it. maybe.

The transition from 15.7 cells you created in low load would fall out of lean somewhere around 70,80 load. This area then is the start of leanish spool up. 13.x
then on up into the 12s and so on. The transition from 15.7 to 14.7 to 13.7, 12.7
is approximate and maybe you would be wise to see JB's map he posted in one of the economy threads.

T he whole tune can be adjusted and compounded by lean spool, meth, water, and newly defined aspects of the ecu we are hearing about weekly. There is still some evolution taking place so the finial configuration of your map will likely look different over time.

 

First off, this thread is awesome. I've been thinking about doing my own tuning this summer when I get cams and I think I can do it but I have some questions.

Mods are: BR TBE with testpipe, intercooler, and LICP, Forge Bov, walbro 255, K&N cone filter, and an AMS tune. I will be tuning at 23psi on 93oct.

From what I'm reading, I will need to tune my timing for the most timing I can until there's knock, but I don't understand how to tune the AFR...

How do I know what's too much fuel or not enough? Is there an ideal AFR for cruising, economy, spool up, peak boost, peak to redline?

And sorry but I don't even have anything for logging yet, so I don't really have any info. I have a LC-1 already and will be getting a laptop, tantrix cable, and ecuflash/evoscan from uncle sam

 

[quote=nothere;5227890]If you can't hit that cell then follow the trend.quote]

What do you mean by that?

Also, from what ur telling me, if I am tunning for 12.0 at redline, then I should taper from 15.7 to 12.0 by the time i hit the redline?

what consuses me is the whole , spool - peak - redline.. can someone please clairify those term in relationship to the fuel map and load cells maybe?

 

Redline: 7500-8500rpm depending on where the rev limiter is set to in ECUFLash by the user. Most stock turbo evo's will roughly taper down to the 180-220 cells at redline.

Peak: 3500-4500rpm range on stock turbos generally. This is where you register the highest load value, aka "peak load" or "peak boost" or "peak torque" depending on who you are talking to. Regardless of what is actually at the peak, the peak LOAD is what you are concerned with since this is the area of highest strain on the engine. Usually in the 200-260 cells.

Spool Up: 2500-3500rpm usually. This is the area from closed throttle-to-wide open throttle while the turbo starts to reach its full boost level. Ranging from the 100-200 cells

Hope that helps

 

[QUOTE=Profoxcg;5230138]sure, I meant if when you do a log you don't hit a cell, tune it by relating it to an adjacent cell. If your 220 is at 9.9 and the 240 is at 9.9 and your 180 is at 9.6 then 200 would be somewhere in between. It really is that simple.

No, once you go above 100 load or at least above 130 you should be making an effort to get to your desired afr. I was suggesting that between 80 load and 120 or 130 you ramp the afr towards what you want.
The thing is one mans perfect tune may be your cars troubles. Since every tom dick and harry likes 11.x at peak try that, then work it leaner see if that works better.
Same idea with timing, only more so, I can't run stock timing in lots of cells while other people are running 6 degrees more than me. Its a balancing act afr/timing.

The idea is to get timing such that you get pp 15 degrees after tdc. You can go less fuel and less timing (because more fuel may mean slower burn) or you can go more fuel and more timing.

 

Most people I know who tune never shoot for 11.xx anything at peak, they are closer to 12.5 at peak and slowly taper to 11.XX by redline.

 

I do and I know a few tuners/friends who do as well. Peak boost and torque is the area that is most likely to knock. I always achieve my targeted AFR at peak boost and hold that to redline, without a taper. I use timing to adjust as needed.

Although, to be fair, most of this has been in years past with my Eclipse (3076, etc). I have barely tuned my Evo, but the brief tuning session that I did do, I used this method as well. It has always worked the best for me.

Spoolup and the ramp profile of the AFR curve is a different story, but my intended AFR will be met when I am at peak boost/torque. Actually, usually around the 15 psi range is my target and I use logged boost to make sure I hit my mark.

I guess I like using timing more to tune with than AFR. The transitions are so quick, especially with a stock turbo, that I like to ensure enough fuel is present to achieve a proper burn and prevent knock at this critical point. Also, this makes it easier, at least for me, to tune for higher boost. A quick example would be someone tuning for 30 psi. Are you saying that you would run 12.5 psi at the mark that you hit 30psi at? What about 20 psi? 15psi? I like to be at my target AFR right around the 15ish psi point, or maybe a but higher and tweak the curve before/after as needed, but ensure that I am at my target AFR at that peak boost point.


Eric

 

thank you, subscribed

 

What program is this image??? And run on the fly or only is a log viewer?