I think WG is around 11psi, pill is 20 and turbo around 27 depending on where your at in RPM, look at the compressor map of it.

 

here is a quickie for everyone;

if my knocksum = 0 and my octanelevel = 100, then why am I dropping timing?

low loads, timing should be about 28, however log reveals timing dropped down to 18ish... which co-incidentally is the low-octane timing map...

anyideas?

 

O2 feedback ?

are all 3 of your timing maps the same at that point ?

definitely is strange

 

I didn't think O2 feedback had anything to do with timing - am I wrong?

All the timing maps are different, but the lowest timing in the 3 high maps was way above 18.

maybe this explains my "car feeling **** today"

 

i was just throwing it out there.... my thinking was if your O2 wasnt reading correctly, maybe the ecu sees something it doesnt like and throws it into low octane mode.... kinda strange though

out of curiosity, what was the O2 feedback ?

 

wasn't logged unfortunately - however my trims (idle n cruise) are pretty much spot on...

looks like i'm going to have to trace the final timing memory variable

 

well, on that note, you just left my abilities lol

good luck man, and thanks for all of your work

 

O2 feedback is literally shut off from all equations once you enter open loop. I have had timing do the exact same thing with 0 knocksum pulls, along with others which I came across during random searches on the forums. Its usually no more than 1*. Perhaps a lagging crank or cam angle sensor reading?

 

Yes that was mine. It actually hit ~30psi in the cold (measured by JDM map) . But that is peak as well.

 

So I have a laptop
I bought the Evo specific cable for $89
I downloaded EcuFlaush
I purchased EvoScan 2.0 for $25
I am looking on ebay for wide band O2's and I see this:


LC-1 Wide Band O2 A/F kit Innovate 3769
LM1, air/fuel ratio, Innovate motorsports FREE SHIPPIN

Is that all I need? And when you say to place this on the down pipe... I understand the positioning that you mentioned perfectly... however, my question is: is there a pre-tapped area to screw in the wbO2? I have the turbo XS 3" downpipe... does that even have the pre-tapped hole for the wbO2? Or do you have to tap it yourself?

I'm slowly going through all of this thread... I haven't even gotten past your first post... but I'll tell you one thing... The last thing I think about is money... I will buy whatever is necessary... because I do have the "Passion" and "Desire" to do this. So let me know if I'm going about this the right way. I don't want to do any returns... So I'll wait for your reply before I purchase anything else that I may need!

Thanks in advance! ... Off to some more reading!

 

get the lc-1 and xd16 gauge combo from yoparts... its cheap and works great

 

Are you logging the load used for timing?

 

yes - but there are 2 load variables, today I started logging the "other" - see what I can see

 

Get the LC1 with the XD16. These two will give you what you want.

There is no pre-tapped screw. You take your car to the muffler shop and the muffler shop will weld a bung on the downpipe. The shop will provide the bung and the plug. Make sure that they weld it in the proper position, ie, end of the dp two inches from falange, three o'clock position, passanger side.

Take your time and rear read read before you flash your ECU. Looks like that is what you are doing.

 

I would personally have it welded in the 12 o'clock position. There is plenty of room and that is the best position for avoiding moisture, etc.

I had mine welded at about the 1-2 o'clock postion and it interferes with the hanger for the downpipe.

Eric