How To Tune an Evo
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iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,146
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
mine is at about 330 and she is doing great... i did have the 12 position but that thing is a pain in the *** when you have to take it out.
The LC-1 w/ XD-16 includes a bung with the kit also... so you wont have to pay for one.
The LC-1 w/ XD-16 includes a bung with the kit also... so you wont have to pay for one.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,146
Likes: 2
From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
the reason why i say 330 is because in the position, it sits so close to the heat shield if it is higher and then it puts an awful strain on the wires because they have to take an immediate 90* turn out of the end of the sensor. 330 works great for me and i have checked it off of 2 seperate dynos and it doesnt seem to give me any out of wack readings... i also dont notice any excessive moisture or anything like that
12 is fine for permanent placement. But if you have to install and unistall a wideband like I do, then 3 o'clock is the best position. I have had mine installed in the 3'oclock position since I got the car 7000 miles ago and have had no problems. Antyhing below 3 o'clock, however, and condensation becomes an issue.
There is no room to install in the 2 o'clock position. The sensor will hit the undercarriage. I looked for the ideal position for quick install/unistall and the 3 o'clock is it on the Evo.
Im not arguing by any means im just saying where i placed mine and what the directions stated. I actually still have a cat with the HKS exhaust so i was looking and i decided to look behind the intake manifold near the firewall of the car. I can take it off pretty easily with my long arms i dont know about other people but i found this a pretty good spot with nothing to worry about it hitting with it in the 1-2 o'clock position.
I just added an injector scaling section to the write-up. I am on the third post now. The previous two posts maxxed out.
I also added a legal disclaimer to the first post.
I also added a legal disclaimer to the first post.
NJ,
You might want to add my explanation in the injector scaling thread about adjusting the latency for non-matching LTFTs (Lo and mid) EDIT - Here is the thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=69. Also, a note here about not having the breather hose connected may be good. If you don't have that hose connected, you may get very positive LTFT Lo and even LTFT mid trims, which can turn the whole injector tuning process into a nightmare.
Also, you have a good explanation, with the exception of this one paragraph:
If your LTFTs are very positive, then the ECU is adding fuel during closed loop only. So, your AFRs will most likely be leaner than you expected during open loop and vice versa.
Eric
You might want to add my explanation in the injector scaling thread about adjusting the latency for non-matching LTFTs (Lo and mid) EDIT - Here is the thread - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=69. Also, a note here about not having the breather hose connected may be good. If you don't have that hose connected, you may get very positive LTFT Lo and even LTFT mid trims, which can turn the whole injector tuning process into a nightmare.
Also, you have a good explanation, with the exception of this one paragraph:
Both of these trims fluctuate between +/- 12.5%. The LTFT Low is for idle and the LTFT Mid is for cruising. Your aim is to keep both trim to +/- 5% or less. If the fuel trims are too positive, then the ECU will add fuel and this will royally make your AFR too rich. If your fuel trims are too negative, then the ECU will remove fuel and this will make your AFR too lean.
Eric
Last edited by l2r99gst; Nov 12, 2007 at 07:52 PM.
This is awesome...
On Sunday I put in some 100octane (called Shell Vpower Racing here in Aus).
Anyways today I did a log and my idle/cruise trims were at 5%, strange because last week there were fine at ~0%..
Anyways turns out VPR has 5% ethanol, so I am assuming the O2 sensor detected more O2 in the exhaust and added more fuel to suit?
sound reasonable?
Cheers
D.
On Sunday I put in some 100octane (called Shell Vpower Racing here in Aus).
Anyways today I did a log and my idle/cruise trims were at 5%, strange because last week there were fine at ~0%..
Anyways turns out VPR has 5% ethanol, so I am assuming the O2 sensor detected more O2 in the exhaust and added more fuel to suit?
sound reasonable?
Cheers
D.
This is awesome...
On Sunday I put in some 100octane (called Shell Vpower Racing here in Aus).
Anyways today I did a log and my idle/cruise trims were at 5%, strange because last week there were fine at ~0%..
Anyways turns out VPR has 5% ethanol, so I am assuming the O2 sensor detected more O2 in the exhaust and added more fuel to suit?
sound reasonable?
Cheers
D.
On Sunday I put in some 100octane (called Shell Vpower Racing here in Aus).
Anyways today I did a log and my idle/cruise trims were at 5%, strange because last week there were fine at ~0%..
Anyways turns out VPR has 5% ethanol, so I am assuming the O2 sensor detected more O2 in the exhaust and added more fuel to suit?
sound reasonable?
Cheers
D.
Yep, sounds very reasonable.
Did you notice your WOT AFR go any leaner? It may have gone a couple of tenths or so leaner.
Eric
Last edited by l2r99gst; Nov 12, 2007 at 07:56 PM.
I cannot get over how THIRSTY this gets me to tune. I love meticulous things that take time to do, and that take time to perfect. It's one of those things that in the end; you look back and say... ahhhh I did that! and it works great!
I am going to spend every nook and cranny of time I can muster to learn this. It all seems like common sense to me. I know a great deal about the mechanics of cars and what not... so hearing the details just stitches my already obtained knowledge to more knowledge that is directly able to relate.
You guys are probably going to get sick of me in about 1-2 months. I'm going to be bugging you about things I learn on the way.... LoL
The reason I say 1-2 months... is that I'm going through quite some headaches with my EVO at the moment. I live in NY and I bought it in a dealership out in NJ which is 20 minutes away from me, and the day I bought it off of the showroom floor (3-4 months ago), I was leaking oil, and the 3rd gear grinded (synchro). I take it back to get the oil leak fixed, and then notice I have an oil light on. (oil pressure sender switch) That had to get replaced the week after. THEN after 1500 miles of driving it... I said, ok I HAVE to take this in and complain about this synchro. They had the nerve to tell me that I was driving the car hard. I SCREAMED at them and made them understand that I was complaining about it since day ONE. I had the salesman come over and confirm that with them. They even had the nerve to tell me I didn't know how to shift into 3rd properly... (Can you imagine someone telling you that? Especially when you are in the market to buy an EVO? I mean who buys one that DOESN'T know how to drive?) So they replaced it... NOW... (9000 miles in the car) I have noticed progressively worse winding sounds coming from something drive-train related. I took it in, and they claimed it was my drive shaft (possible imbalance) They replaced it, dented my Greddy Titanium exhaust... :-( and I got it back with a different but similar sound. (different tone) So I drive it some more and now it is REALLY bad... and yet AGAIN.. (just my luck) the evo MR tranny mechanic decided to take a vacation til Nov 20th.
To sum up the sound... The winding gets exponentially higher as I increase speed. It is not the gears... because the tone doesn't change with shifts. When I am off throttle, the sound is ALMOST not noticeable. As I come to a complete stop.... if I am slowing down in gear... it is almost not noticeable, but at that last few feet where I clutch down... The wind almost sounds like a grind and kicks in and sounds very bad.
Some of my friends say it is still the drive shaft. Other say its the active center diff. (because the sound 'sometimes' comes from the front, and 'sometimes' comes from the back. Then others say it's the throw out bearing, or a bearing of some sort.
The funny thing is, I never really beat on the car... a couple of hard hits, but NOTHING that even a FWD Honda would choke on. I also find it ironic that it happened after my third gear synchro was replaced. (which works fine thank god). However, this wind/mild grind is scaring me.
One more note... as I cruise (50-70mph+) and rest my foot on the gas... it almost sounds as if someone is hitting a horrible note on a flute or recorder. Makes me wonder about the stock CAT.
I have so many parts waiting to be installed...
Catco 3" cat
Turbo XS down pipe
Wahlbro 255 pump
Injen intercooler pipe kit | upper/lower
Light weight battery
Invidia turbo outlet housing
and soon to purchase... 680cc injectors (or 750cc, don't know yet)
Right now I just have the Greddy Ti cat-back installed. I didn't want to void warranty with this sort of issue in hand.
So yeah... thats why it's going to take me 1-2 months before I start tuning... LOL my intentions for this reply was to be 3-4 lines... sorry! I got carried away! you know how EVO owners are with their stories! everyone's got one... just a shame that mine are all bad news. :-(
I am going to spend every nook and cranny of time I can muster to learn this. It all seems like common sense to me. I know a great deal about the mechanics of cars and what not... so hearing the details just stitches my already obtained knowledge to more knowledge that is directly able to relate.
You guys are probably going to get sick of me in about 1-2 months. I'm going to be bugging you about things I learn on the way.... LoL
The reason I say 1-2 months... is that I'm going through quite some headaches with my EVO at the moment. I live in NY and I bought it in a dealership out in NJ which is 20 minutes away from me, and the day I bought it off of the showroom floor (3-4 months ago), I was leaking oil, and the 3rd gear grinded (synchro). I take it back to get the oil leak fixed, and then notice I have an oil light on. (oil pressure sender switch) That had to get replaced the week after. THEN after 1500 miles of driving it... I said, ok I HAVE to take this in and complain about this synchro. They had the nerve to tell me that I was driving the car hard. I SCREAMED at them and made them understand that I was complaining about it since day ONE. I had the salesman come over and confirm that with them. They even had the nerve to tell me I didn't know how to shift into 3rd properly... (Can you imagine someone telling you that? Especially when you are in the market to buy an EVO? I mean who buys one that DOESN'T know how to drive?) So they replaced it... NOW... (9000 miles in the car) I have noticed progressively worse winding sounds coming from something drive-train related. I took it in, and they claimed it was my drive shaft (possible imbalance) They replaced it, dented my Greddy Titanium exhaust... :-( and I got it back with a different but similar sound. (different tone) So I drive it some more and now it is REALLY bad... and yet AGAIN.. (just my luck) the evo MR tranny mechanic decided to take a vacation til Nov 20th.
To sum up the sound... The winding gets exponentially higher as I increase speed. It is not the gears... because the tone doesn't change with shifts. When I am off throttle, the sound is ALMOST not noticeable. As I come to a complete stop.... if I am slowing down in gear... it is almost not noticeable, but at that last few feet where I clutch down... The wind almost sounds like a grind and kicks in and sounds very bad.
Some of my friends say it is still the drive shaft. Other say its the active center diff. (because the sound 'sometimes' comes from the front, and 'sometimes' comes from the back. Then others say it's the throw out bearing, or a bearing of some sort.
The funny thing is, I never really beat on the car... a couple of hard hits, but NOTHING that even a FWD Honda would choke on. I also find it ironic that it happened after my third gear synchro was replaced. (which works fine thank god). However, this wind/mild grind is scaring me.
One more note... as I cruise (50-70mph+) and rest my foot on the gas... it almost sounds as if someone is hitting a horrible note on a flute or recorder. Makes me wonder about the stock CAT.
I have so many parts waiting to be installed...
Catco 3" cat
Turbo XS down pipe
Wahlbro 255 pump
Injen intercooler pipe kit | upper/lower
Light weight battery
Invidia turbo outlet housing
and soon to purchase... 680cc injectors (or 750cc, don't know yet)
Right now I just have the Greddy Ti cat-back installed. I didn't want to void warranty with this sort of issue in hand.
So yeah... thats why it's going to take me 1-2 months before I start tuning... LOL my intentions for this reply was to be 3-4 lines... sorry! I got carried away! you know how EVO owners are with their stories! everyone's got one... just a shame that mine are all bad news. :-(
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ight=funky+AFR
It turns out it was the fuel trim maxing out to +12.5. When I scaled them back to 472, the trims fell down to +/- 5 and the funky AFR stopped happening.
I have noticed multiple Evo 9s like that. The last one I tuned had fuel trims @ +12.25 when I logged it on the tune that it was on. I re-scaled the injectors to 472 and that took care of the problem.
For some reason after an Evo 9 is modded with a TBE, the fuel trims go nuts and the injector scaling needs to be adjusted to 472 to tkae care of the problem.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=287759
Last edited by nj1266; Nov 13, 2007 at 09:27 AM.



