The torque curve will 'generally' change in 4th gear since the turbo will be fully spooled in a lower RPM range than in 3rd so peak TQ will be higher in most cases. The benefit of tuning in the higher gear is usually because the car will stay in each fuel/timing cell longer so its easier to find your problem areas and collect more data from the longer pull. I personally think its best to dyno tune in 4th, THEN check the 3rd gear pulls to make sure you didn't miss any cell areas that still might need attention. Ideally you'd want to confirm every gear has no issues but thats not all that feasible for most people.

 

Who tuned you?

 

That makes sense. It's very hard for me to do that around where I live (DC area). There's cops like every 100 feet. I have a hard time even doing this in 3rd. Sometimes I wish there was an option for second gear, even though it's not feasible. I would have to drive about an hour to find some nice roads where I could just rip it.

The tuner is pretty good and has been mentioned on this forum a few times. After learning about this stuff myself, I don't think I would ever go back- not because he's not good, but because it's not fine tuned like it should be for the money you pay.

Edit: Any ideas on turbo or mod selection that would be able to hold the torque line to redline?

 

Just keep tuning in 3rd and have 2 friends come along occasionally to help force the car to go thru each fuel/timing cell a little slower to help simulate a 4th gear pull. Its what I do and it works just fine....while never exceeding 80mph

 

Agree That's why I started as well!!!

 

Not really, at your power levels that turbo just doesn't have the lung capacity no matter what you will try to do. Even the FP red/green's have trouble up top so the stocker has very little chance. I saw someone have a ruler flat curve once but they basically had their boost curve set to hold it at their desired torque level ( I think it hit about 19psi at peak tq,23psi at redline with GM EBC/stock ECU control). The car did not put down very high #'s at all though when he achieved this.

 

Yeah, I'm sure I could do it if I lowered the boost, etc. I"m trying to balance the fun on the street with the autox drivability. Hard to do. Stroker motor maybe J/K

I'm trying to have my cake and eat it to. Compromises, compromises.

 

lol, I would assume it would be even harder to do on the stroker motor since it will be displacing even more air volume up top.

 

I wonder if the "new" FP green would be a good choice. Not sure if I want that much power and torque though- it's hard enough to control at autox events as it is (on street tires mind you).

Stoker motor= super torque mountain.

Edit- Is there any way to maintain torque after 6K? IE, adding fuel, boost, IC, whatever? I'm trying to hit 350 tq at redline instead of 300. Is it possible with the current setup? Completely off topic and sorry for that.

 

The FP Green would be the better choice for autoX and the FP red would be better for Drag IMO. Buschur's PROJECT WHITE Evo runs a 2.3L off-the-shelf motor that they offer with an FPRed tuned for both E85 and 93 pump gas and he autox's it. Thing goes into 3-wheel mode when he accelerates out of every corner! it did 500whp/500wtq on his dyno on e85 (which is roughly 585-590whp on the average dynojet!) and around 46xwhp/47xwtq on 93 pump.

 

Which is the most accurate smoothing factor? If I use 15, everything looks good, if I use 5, I have a dip at 5K. Just wondering. I know a dynojet max smoothing factor is 5 and so I kinda wanted to see what that looked like.

 

Should I regard this dip or adjust? Here's my current maps. Any recommendations welcome. The car doesn't feel like it has a dip in power/torque, but that's just the butt dyno.

 

The smoothing is the hardest thing to adjust because its all in the end-users discretion. Its like that at dyno shops too since they can choose how much to apply themselves. Its hard to tell someone when to 'stop' applying the snoothing but I normally would say to stop adding it once you see the smallest bit of definition start to smooth out and become more fluid. In the graph you posted, I would add some more smoothing until the little jagged peaks in the top RPM range just smooth out. Maybe 8? I feel that the 5k RPM problem area will probably still be there a little bit. Maybe trying adding one degree in that area and see if it doesn't knock and the power level gets better.

 

I seem to be having an issue. The default transmission is evo ix 5 speed. As soon as I change it to evo ix 6 speed the graph disappears and the power and torque state zero. This is with open office. Also just for a heads up, my netbook comes with the staroffice suit which is the same company that produces openoffice. I figured they would be the same but they are not as it doesn't work with staroffice.

 

Hmm, you're right. Just another day where I curse at OpenOffice for sucking ***. For now just download a free 60 day trial of Microsoft Office if you can until I figure out why OpenOffice is being a ***** again. Can you tell I HATE that crappy program?lol. Excel is probably the only decent thing that Microsoft offers and I'm sure its because someone ELSE created it and they just bought it from them lol.