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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by ethan169
93 octane. and this is prob about as crappy as it gets for gas. I was out and had to fill up to the closest place to work. It was a phillips 66 place or something. Never seen another one before. Either way its 93 octane. I dont want to be limited to just for instance shell 93. The car needs to be a monster in all weather and all gas conditons. (93 of course)
personally if i were you i would turn off lean spool now in your rom. do a pull with lean spool disabled and load your log file into evoscan and maptrace and correct your AFR. lean spool sucks. I would smooth out the 6 and 7's, make them much lower.. and for the high rpm timing you can squeeze out 15-16* on pump gas. the more timing you add the less boost it takes to make good power.

are you 100% certain your evoscan is logging proper 2byte load's now like i said above to do? if so map tracer should be very accurate to use.

tune for 12.0-12.5 AFR during spoolup, and the rest tune for 11.2-11.3 to be safe.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 05:00 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
personally if i were you i would turn off lean spool now in your rom. do a pull with lean spool disabled and load your log file into evoscan and maptrace and correct your AFR. lean spool sucks. I would smooth out the 6 and 7's, make them much lower.. and for the high rpm timing you can squeeze out 15-16* on pump gas. the more timing you add the less boost it takes to make good power.

are you 100% certain your evoscan is logging proper 2byte load's now like i said above to do? if so map tracer should be very accurate to use.

tune for 12.0-12.5 AFR during spoolup, and the rest tune for 11.2-11.3 to be safe.
Im pretty sure that EvoScan is logging proper 2byte load and rpm. In the logs I posted you can see the 2byte info. I think I have the 2byte rpm and regular rpm so you could compare i guess. Not sure completely what the differences are supposed to be though. Im still using EvoScan 2.6 not really sure where to get the 2.7 beta from but Ill check the website.

How do I "smooth out" the 6* and 7* areas? I mean theres no big numerical jumps. Should I lower that area to say 4 or 5* and have it ramp down to that kinda of making up numbers along the way? Im still unsure how to properly smooth things without changing numbers in in certain columns drastically.

Also maybe ill advance the timing in the the upper rpm by a degree and see how it reacts? Theres no way to log EGT without adding some sort of thermocouple is there? Right now what im keeping an eye on for saftey is knock and afr. AFR looks ok generally rich not lean and knock is under control during WOT most of the time. If any Ive seen a knocky run that will show 3-4counts.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 05:43 AM
  #153  
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i will send you the file to replace your xml and evoscan.exe and it will turn your 2.6 into 2.7. 2.7 is really good, no bugs so far. 2.6 has bugs.

to smooth the end of the timing map start at the top where its negative and slowly go higher. -12 -10 -9 -8 -7 etc.. start off with giving yourself 1* max and go from there. you can bring the numbers out to 15 at higher rpm as well. but for now leave them go and smooth the rest of the stuff out.

at your boost level on 93oct you should have zero knock.... work on getting rid of all the knock counts. EGT isnt a big deal for a street car, more for a car thats constantly getting beat on a road course where the temps are more important to monitor. if you wanted to log egt u would need to tap your exhaust manifold and put a sensor on it. no need though.

next time you do a pull make sure its in 3rd gear. start from 2000rpm and go WOT until redline.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 05:51 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
i will send you the file to replace your xml and evoscan.exe and it will turn your 2.6 into 2.7. 2.7 is really good, no bugs so far. 2.6 has bugs.

to smooth the end of the timing map start at the top where its negative and slowly go higher. -12 -10 -9 -8 -7 etc.. start off with giving yourself 1* max and go from there. you can bring the numbers out to 15 at higher rpm as well. but for now leave them go and smooth the rest of the stuff out.

at your boost level on 93oct you should have zero knock.... work on getting rid of all the knock counts. EGT isnt a big deal for a street car, more for a car thats constantly getting beat on a road course where the temps are more important to monitor. if you wanted to log egt u would need to tap your exhaust manifold and put a sensor on it. no need though.

next time you do a pull make sure its in 3rd gear. start from 2000rpm and go WOT until redline.
What do you mean when you say "start off with giving yourself 1* max and go from there" ? I understand the whole start from the negative region and slowly go higher but where does this starting point come into play? Are you saying that when I get to 1* ramp it up to the 6* incrementally?

Ill play around with a map today at work if i get a chance and post it to see if it corresponds with what your saying.

I agree that I should have 0 knock but I still have some knock here and there and I feel its from a sloppy fuel map and some rough timing changes here and there.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #155  
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the rpm where your turbos fully spooled, is what, 3500rpm? make that area 1* or less thats where your peak tq will be, then from there you can gradually advance it to redline. after thats done do a clean pull and go from there. the timing on your log should gradually increase the higher the rpm, if its dropping back, then the ecu is pulling timing, which is not what you want.

if you look at your log, everywhere you see knock there will be timing being taken away, the ecu pulls timing on knock as a fail safe to protect the engine.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:59 AM
  #156  
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How does this look? Any better? It took me FOREVER to do. I think mostly because im trying to take my time. Im not finished yet with it. I want to get it to be nice and silky smooth. Or at least a little less jagged. Progress though? How do the peak torque numbers look? Ive lowered them a little bit and smoothed them together.

Give me some feedback here.

Once i get the smoothing down a little bit more can I flash this to my car and run some part throttle logs and some crusing logs and everything looks ok try some easy gradual pulls and then if everything still looks ok some full 3rd gear pulls?

-Ethan


Before is on top and after is on bottom
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #157  
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From: pa
pull more than that off..... if you're paranoid just do a partial 3rd gear pulls... let off at 5k.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #158  
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as an example my VIII at 26 psi , 3500 rpm and 260 load, timing is either 0 or 1, can't remember.
every car is different and blah blah but by and large you will see no more than 3 degrees at 260 / 3500. thats what I had on a stock VIII turbo.(lot less timing)
you may very well be the odd ball and can get 6 degrees there(?) but the method to find that is to work your way back up rather than start high and go down.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #159  
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Your best bet is to do a couple pulls now and save yourself a lot of headaches later because everything needs to be changed based on your pulls.

Do a pull, then plot the load cells hit during the pull. Adjust them as necessary for your desired power. Then smooth the areas around it.

Rinse and repeat.

I recommend doing the fuel table first though. No point in playing with timing until you have your AFRs in check.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #160  
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From: mnt vernon ny
Originally Posted by Appauldd
Your best bet is to do a couple pulls now and save yourself a lot of headaches later because everything needs to be changed based on your pulls.

Do a pull, then plot the load cells hit during the pull. Adjust them as necessary for your desired power. Then smooth the areas around it.

Rinse and repeat.

I recommend doing the fuel table first though. No point in playing with timing until you have your AFRs in check.
+1

you'll see that a leaner mix may not tolerate that timing and then your back at it again.

im currently @ 4* peak TQ as well
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 12:59 PM
  #161  
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Ok so I should start with my fuel map. do I need to detune my timing a bunch to get my fuel in check? Meaning if im going to be leaning out certain areas and it cant take the advanced timing im running I will encounter knock when adjusting the fuel. No? So now im confused as where to start and how.


This is my current fuel map that has not been modified at all by me.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 12:59 PM
  #162  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by Appauldd
Your best bet is to do a couple pulls now and save yourself a lot of headaches later because everything needs to be changed based on your pulls.

Do a pull, then plot the load cells hit during the pull. Adjust them as necessary for your desired power. Then smooth the areas around it.

Rinse and repeat.

I recommend doing the fuel table first though. No point in playing with timing until you have your AFRs in check.
ya i agree. the only time i would change the timing first is if it were an aggressive map like 1g dsm's have and need to pull like 8-10* right off the bat.

with that said i do recommend changing those high blocky numbers, what does he have to lose? although im sure its not going to kill his car.... anything past 260 load he hits the ecu will slowly taper off the timing in those loads anyhow.

I just got done scaling in my 2150's and car feels pretty solid even at 18psi.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #163  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by ethan169
Ok so I should start with my fuel map. do I need to detune my timing a bunch to get my fuel in check? Meaning if im going to be leaning out certain areas and it cant take the advanced timing im running I will encounter knock when adjusting the fuel. No? So now im confused as where to start and how.


This is my current fuel map that has not been modified at all by me.
that looks safe enough to go off of for now. timing has nothing to do with fuel map, they dont work together at all. i only recommended taming down your block of 6 and 7's to be safe.... i assure youll be lowering them as you raise the boost.

tune for 12.5 afr during spoolup and 11.0 on WOT.

like everyone else is saying, dont spend to much time on making the maps look pretty, because its all gotta get tweaked anyways again......

what we are trying to say is when you change something on the map, slightly change the surrounding cells as well..... this is how you get a smooth map.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
ya i agree. the only time i would change the timing first is if it were an aggressive map like 1g dsm's have and need to pull like 8-10* right off the bat.

with that said i do recommend changing those high blocky numbers, what does he have to lose? although im sure its not going to kill his car.... anything past 260 load he hits the ecu will slowly taper off the timing in those loads anyhow.

I just got done scaling in my 2150's and car feels pretty solid even at 18psi.
So I guess im having a hard time figuring out what to change the blocky numbers too. The reason im confused here is that if I look at my log I see at 3500rpm i hit 200load where the map says 9* timing. In my log I am running 9* with no knock at this point. You saying that I need to put this area down to 0-2?
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #165  
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From: pa
why dont you do a 3rd gear pull starting from 2000rpm until your redline and post the log.....

Log: TPS, WIDEBAND, TIMING, KNOCK, 2byte load, 2byte rpm, IDC, 2byte airflow

post your log when done...
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