I don't sell/recommend or use Quarter Master, I have no input. I believe the design is similar to the Tilton and you MUST use the clutch stop.

Dyno plans? Not sure what you mean. As soon as the car is done it's going on the dyno, I should be able to sort out the misfire based on the map that is in the car. It's running on E85 so there shouldn't be any reason to not be able to test this to it's full potential. When it goes back together the engine/head/cams will be identical to my car, so the turbo should be the only major factor in it all. It does have our old small FMIC on it.

Just for reference since it came up, do you guys know where the stubby shaft BS kit was designed? Mitsubishi, as a matter of fact they are OEM pieces......does that put your mind in a better place?

 

I've always said that. If it was good enough for a production vehicle then its good enough for our cars. I don't know why people insist that the OEM solution will break a motor.

 

The idea that the OEM's have it all figured out is not sound logic.

 

It's sound logic when the parts were used in production vehicles that went 200,000+ miles on them.

The problem with the BS deletes are over tension of the belt, the wrong belts and the wrong oil, then there is just the freak that one fails...for reference we've seen the full machined shaft fail more than once.

 

can't wait to see what it does on your dyno. I'm interested to see the spool characteristics and curves vs my black with the 2.3.

 

Short block is done, it's all starting to be assembled now by Dan.......

 

So Dave what are your plans for dynoing this badboy?

 

I answered you R/T a few responses ago.

He is also upgrading to our Race FMIC while it is here.

 

Sweet.

 

Is there a peak HP limit leet is letting you run? Peak Boost pressure? Or can you run the car on kill mode @45psi while it's there?

That's more or less my question.

 

Damn!!! Good stuff david can't wait to see how the car does

 

Can I have a ride in the bad bish if I end up flying back?!

 

So compared to the hta turbos where does the 7076 fall, between the 30r's and hta3582? Also, is the Fullrace manifold the smaller diameter one?

Funny that we will get real info and #'s on the new BW turbo from Dave. He isn't even a bw vendor but his quest never ends, and the evo community appreciates all the turbo testing.

 

I have no limits set by Ben on his car. I am going to tune it and while tuning, obviously collect data. I don't see running the car at 45 psi happening, I didn't run any of the other turbos at 45 psi and there is absolutely no reason to run this pure road race EVO at 45 psi.

If I sort out the ignition and everything seems to be going well I see no reason that I won't try a run at 39-40 psi for a pull just to see how it does.

This is a Time Attack car, it will probably end up in the 28-30 psi range for what he is trying to do. The power should be better, although may read lower on our dyno than the Dynapak did, with the new cam change (BF272 vs HKS280's) and the Race FMIC compared to the old Deluxe FMIC.

For the specs, this 7670 is in a Twin Scroll T4 housing. Uses two Tial wastegates and a Tial BOV, no speed sensor in the turbo. So pretty much a T4 twin scroll, small runner header, it SHOULD spool fast. I am more curious what is going to happen to the top end now with a good cam in it.

 

Sounds great.

Are you planning on retarding the cams (Evo 8 right?) to make the spool up less harsh and help the top end? Maybe 2-4 degrees of retard would do wonders

Great news Dave! Thanks for doing the work and the testing at the same time. Much appreciated.