greencow

iTrader: (1)

Just to update, its been a few weeks now, had a heavy snow storm (14+ inches in a day), drove up to sno*drift, and power washed the car a couple of times since doing the cheap fix. Still solid, no issues yet, I'll report back if/when it happens again.

Just to reiterate, mine wasn't as corroded as some of the pictures I've seen here, the only issue I had was wipers (front/back) going crazy and non-responsive. Cleaning the contacts out, dieletric grease - and the most important thing - ripping out that plastic box and sealing the wiring harness up with electrical tape worked for me, so far.

What I still don't get, and I'm trying to trace down the root cause, is why mine didn't have water ingress through that plastic box above the fender liner for the last 4 years, driven through rain/snow, and washed religiously. I suspect a weather seal around the hood/cowl area is getting old, and letting to much water flow down past the fender liner and into that box.

SyncdLancer

So I tried to tackle this job on my 06 SE over this weekend. It took me 2 days and I did the best that I could. I had corrosion from water breaching into the grommet in the fender like everyone else so I began to take apart the kick panel and fender as well as the dash since I was changing out the dash harness anyway. After putting everything back together the car wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and even putting a bigger battery in and still nothing. It wont even turn over. Its as if I dont have the clutch pressed in.

There was 2 wires I couldn't figure out where they went in the wiring bundle that runs outside the fender. A red with white stripe wire and a blue with orange stripe wire. I also noticed that there were a couple wires that were a 2 in 1 connection. I believe it was a pair of green with yellow stripe wires and the other was a red with yellow stripe wires. Does anyone know what these wires control? Oh and another strange thing. The previous owner installed a VCD T-case so my Tarmac/Gravel/Snow options do not work and I have never seen the green lights come on until after doing this job. All 3 lights stay on. Wtf? Please help.

jspecteggy

iTrader: (13)

Would this potentially cause the AC control lights to not come on? Mine work intermittently, mostly don't work now. Blower motor still works, all speeds work but the defrost, AC and recirc lights will only flicker on every once in a while. It has all the symptoms of a loose wire or one that is grounding out but I don't know where to begin, the wiring schematic isn't the most clear either. All the fuses are good too.

555R

iTrader: (5)

Any ideas if this can cause the driver side mirror to stop working?

SnailSpeed

iTrader: (6)

has anyone had a symptom of a burnt out turn signal bulb only the bulb is fine and fixed it by doing this rewire job?

Royal Evo

Thanks gsrboi80! I wanted to share and add this to your thread for reference.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...de-sensor.html

dcdirtrider

Is there any way to clean the connector so it will work? Cutting wires in a $20k car sounds ruthless and nerve-breaking haha

EDIT: My connector was way too corroded to simply clean, so I added picture of what the damage looked like, and added pictures of my solution in the post below.

dcdirtrider

I ended up going to Harbor Freight and picking up around 60 heat-shrink crimp connectors, along with 40ft of wire, and another 20ft of heat shrink. Instead of cutting the wires off the corroded connector and directly connecting the two ends, I added another 6" of wire between the two. I also added an extra layer of heat shrink over the crimp connections just to ensure a water-tight seal. I added a picture below of the completed product. Do to time limitations, I was only able to get the eight bottom-most wires (within the connector) completed, but that did the trick and my wipers/sprayers work again!

Evoguy!123

it sure found my problem

Evoguy!123

​​​​​​​so what do i do next??

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Once you get the female half of the connector out of the back of the junction block (screwdriver) then connect them externally of the plastic junction block. And snip wire one at a time front/back and solder them together, heat shrink tubing over each solder joint.

It's a bit tedious, but one at a time you'll get there

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Added to OP. Glad it's all fixed up!!

Thanks for sharing.

Evoguy!123

srs light came on but other than that no more issuse exept the SRS light? what do i have to do now?

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Take the car to a body shop and have them reset the light. The dealer can also do it however it'll cost you quite a bit more. Think last time someone told me the dealer reset and cleared theirs for the issue it was $100

Generally a Body shop will do it at the fraction of the price.

Nice Work!! Happy to hear it's back running normally.

Evoguy!123

​​​​​​​thanks alot man if it wasnt for you i would of wasted so much money.