Electrical Gremlins - symptoms and how to fix
#166
Don't clean corrosion fix it right and hard solder connections. The couple I've done the wires coming into the connector were very brittle near the pins and I had to actually cut a few wires back a bit to get fresh wire.
Last edited by gsrboi80; Sep 13, 2011 at 07:11 AM.
#169
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Well I'm the lastest victim to this. On new years eve no less . My wipers wouldn't stop going as long as the car was even in ACC mode. I checked the junction box and all of the plugs were fine except for the top left, in which the bottom right pin had a lot of corrosion. The rest were fine. I had to pull the fuse to make them stop. Today morning I put the fuse back in and it was sort of better behaved, but would still wipe excessively. More scary though is I heard some kind of faint hissing and thought my harness was catching on fire! But it went away after pulling out the wiper fuse again.
I gotta wait until tomorrow for places to open up. Going to get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease as a temp fix. Until I have time to resolder everything. Oh yea...threw an airbag code.
I gotta wait until tomorrow for places to open up. Going to get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease as a temp fix. Until I have time to resolder everything. Oh yea...threw an airbag code.
#170
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Ok so there was some sunshine and the weather was only 32deg F (as opposed to much lower) so I went to work on that junction block. I pulled out the plugs and pulled the other side out of the junction box too (theres a white tab that you must lift with a small flathead). There was a lot of corrosion! More than you can see by just looking at the plugs.
I sprayed electrical contact cleaner from every angle and flushed a crap load of stuff out. I also scraped a lot with a very small flathead (like used for electronics small). Then I put dielectric grease on the plugs on both sides (where wires go in and where the male/female pins are) and put it all back together. Before I could go into the fender to put some silicone on the grommet a snow flurry rolled in. Damn I wish I had a garage ! When the weather warms up I'll probably hard solder everything. The only thing that concerns me about that is if it will make it harder to pull the harness out if I need to for whatever reason. Are those plugs really necessary?
EDIT: Forgot to mention my wipers behave themselves now.
I sprayed electrical contact cleaner from every angle and flushed a crap load of stuff out. I also scraped a lot with a very small flathead (like used for electronics small). Then I put dielectric grease on the plugs on both sides (where wires go in and where the male/female pins are) and put it all back together. Before I could go into the fender to put some silicone on the grommet a snow flurry rolled in. Damn I wish I had a garage ! When the weather warms up I'll probably hard solder everything. The only thing that concerns me about that is if it will make it harder to pull the harness out if I need to for whatever reason. Are those plugs really necessary?
EDIT: Forgot to mention my wipers behave themselves now.
Last edited by deeman101; Jan 2, 2012 at 09:25 AM.
#172
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Just found my corroded mess Let's see some more pics of the afters!!! I am curious how many have tried to use a donated harness for the fix or were you able to get new elec. connectors from Mitsu? I like to keep everything looking as factory as possible for these types of fixes. I have also read this was also a problem on the VII's, that's three generations! I call BS.
Great write up, glad I found it.
Great write up, glad I found it.
#173
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Thank god for this thread. My wiper started to have a mind of its own. Here in bc it rains for 3 months straight so I can see why this has become a problem.
So I soldered all the affected connectors. Then I proceeded to seal up that grommet. I took of the weather strip on the harness that goes into the grommet, sure enough the bundle was wet. Skin went ahead and jammed a whole bunch of rtv gasket maker into it.
I also sealed the hood latch cable since water was seeping out of it as I was playing with the grommet. Did anyone else find water inside their harness? Cus it would seem like the water can still get past the grommet and get inside the car again.
I just hope my now heat shrunken solder will hold up to the water.
I will report back on the situation.
So I soldered all the affected connectors. Then I proceeded to seal up that grommet. I took of the weather strip on the harness that goes into the grommet, sure enough the bundle was wet. Skin went ahead and jammed a whole bunch of rtv gasket maker into it.
I also sealed the hood latch cable since water was seeping out of it as I was playing with the grommet. Did anyone else find water inside their harness? Cus it would seem like the water can still get past the grommet and get inside the car again.
I just hope my now heat shrunken solder will hold up to the water.
I will report back on the situation.
#174
My evo 8 just had the same problem today and iam about to fix it...but i love how everyone i asked was like bad ecu...thank god i found this.....i though my car was haunted..... but my dash lights came on when i was not even in the car and my parking lights came on to....
#177
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Anyway, as the latest victim of this I was already pot committed to soldering when I started thinking bout the possibility dash removal. I did however decide to solder in an extra 4in of cable to give me plenty of slack for the possibility of future projects.
#178
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Well, thanks to work and other household obligations this project took me the better part of 3.5days to complete
A huge thanks goes out to those that contributed any type of info or pics to the thread. It was one of the few times I found the content on this site helpful.
Just to add my .02 on the following....
1. For those a little gun shy about soldering don't be. I haven't done any serious soldering since college and other than the lack of room this job was extremely simple with the right tools. All can be had for less than $60. But do yourself a favor and solder in an extra 3in-6in of wire. It will make your life easier in case you have to remove the dash or have any other future projects. There are plenty of YouTube links to help with soldering. I also suggest using a Radio Shack butane soldering iron. It will give you loads more room without a cable and makes shirk wrapping simple.
2. While some suggest not hacking off the entire harness I opted to simply to give me more room. The color listing that C130flyer posted(HUGE THANKS) is 100% accurate although I did rearrange them in ascending order for myself.
Distinguishing between the horn and RH light is extremely simple and takes only seconds if you have a DMM. Save those 4 wires for last, apply power to the system, hook the DMM to the red horn wire and one of the yellow wires. Hit the horn and it will read 12v. If not put it on the other yellow wire, rinse and repeat. However, DO NOT test it on the RH lights and hit the turn signal. It WILL read 12v on both yellow wires.
Like I said these are things that helped me and once again thanks to all that contributed and I highly suggest those without garage queens check this harness before things get worse.
A huge thanks goes out to those that contributed any type of info or pics to the thread. It was one of the few times I found the content on this site helpful.
Just to add my .02 on the following....
1. For those a little gun shy about soldering don't be. I haven't done any serious soldering since college and other than the lack of room this job was extremely simple with the right tools. All can be had for less than $60. But do yourself a favor and solder in an extra 3in-6in of wire. It will make your life easier in case you have to remove the dash or have any other future projects. There are plenty of YouTube links to help with soldering. I also suggest using a Radio Shack butane soldering iron. It will give you loads more room without a cable and makes shirk wrapping simple.
2. While some suggest not hacking off the entire harness I opted to simply to give me more room. The color listing that C130flyer posted(HUGE THANKS) is 100% accurate although I did rearrange them in ascending order for myself.
Distinguishing between the horn and RH light is extremely simple and takes only seconds if you have a DMM. Save those 4 wires for last, apply power to the system, hook the DMM to the red horn wire and one of the yellow wires. Hit the horn and it will read 12v. If not put it on the other yellow wire, rinse and repeat. However, DO NOT test it on the RH lights and hit the turn signal. It WILL read 12v on both yellow wires.
Like I said these are things that helped me and once again thanks to all that contributed and I highly suggest those without garage queens check this harness before things get worse.
#179
speedo dead on Turn signal
Im in a serious bind man just before my e4 blew up i had this weird problem where my speedo would drop dead on a left turn , right turn or hazards. the car is down now about to start a rebuild does anyone have ANY idea of what i should be looking for , ive checked the relays and i havent seen anything out of the norm, would rather get this resolved so if i need to source a part i can do it while im taking everything out