^ good deal smogz

anywayz,i can't wait for some real world results. i'm really thinking about one of these.how someone can prove that it;s a great turbo on 91oct......i'll wait & see

 

Tym or Zeus:

Could you please shed some light on why the car used the Hallman MBC instead of using the AEM EMS to control boost? I believe all that was needed was a new GM solenoid which is pretty inexpensive - plus it probably makes it easier to dial in boost with the EMS?

There must have been a good reason. Thanks for any info.

Brent

 

Actually, controlling boost with the ems is really a lot of work. I have done it with both the gm solenoid and the apex. In the end, it was just easier and better to use a dijon or halman mbc for me as it is for a lot of people and there isn't any advantage.

 

Actually there is an advangtage. If the EMS has the ability to pull boost, it could save the hell out of your motor if you run into some really bad gas or something of the sort. The ems see's the detonation and starts yanking timing, but the gas is pure crap and it continues. So, the ems then yanks the boost down to a pre-deteremined level that I would assume you would set and bam, you know there is a major problem and your motor is saved.

 

Why do you think that the dowel pin is there in the first place? Think it through!

Do you really want variable valve timing that badly?

 

My mods are:

Helix 3" dp
HKS rs intake
HKS 264's
Perrin test pipe
HKS cat back
Walbro fuel pump
HKS evc-v boost controller
DynoFlash custom tune
S-AFC (possibly)

I like the numbers the car made on pump gas, but I won't be running a standalone. I'm wanting to keep my my OEM fmic and pipes. What would be a realistic figure on the kind of power my car would be making with my mods? I've always wanted 400whp (or close to it) on pump gas. Is this gonna be possible with my mods? If I buy this turbo I'll be going with 660's or 680's and have Al custom tune my car again.

 

400whp on pump is very impressive. I think with your mods listed and this turbo you will still be short, but not by much. With a good tune who knows.

 

I could always work some more mods into the action. I'm just curious about this turbo. I'm not one to like BIG turbos on small motors. I like the snappy feel of the stock turbo and this seems like it could be the missing link to acheiving my goal on pump gas. I've never ran race gas and don't plan on it really.

I'm not looking for huge power so this turbo seems to suit me just fine. Now I have to decide if the CE-28's go on the ol' choppin block to get it.

 

so you can change boost levels without a laptop.

 

So my mechanic said that he would suggest upgreading to an aftermarket exhaust manifold and 02 housing. Is that something I am going to need, or is that more for larger turbos?

 

You dont need to. In fact, it seems all the talk about headers is pure speculation. I have yet to see ONE dyno of a before/after with a header showing any power gains. As for an 02 housing, I think a tubular 02 might help slightly, but remember the EVO 02 housing (unlike DSM 02 housings) are pretty large already. Forced Performance even says on their website when talking about their 2.5 02 ..."No compromise in power was measured with the 2.5” unit over the 3”, and thats with a huge turbo, so Id say youll be fine!

Tom

 

Checking in.

I have several reasons for not using the EMS to control boost. First of all, I've seen more than enough failed boost control solenoids to last me a lifetime. Second, I feel that the Hallman MBC's give the best turbo response of any form of boost control out there. I get really annoyed if I'm fighting poor response on a combination that I'm tuning and then find out it's a defective electronic boost controller or solenoid. With the cockpit adjustable Hallman, I can control the boost from inside the car and make changes very quickly.

I spent some time testing some protoype FP camshafts for the Evo with the WR this weekend. I wasn't able to make any more peak hp, but I was able to make the turbo hit boost about 350 rpm sooner and over 450ft/lbs of torque at the highest boost setting that netted the 441 whp during initial testing. There's no need to get too particular about the cams or get anyone all worked up over them at this time... the current camshaft offerings out there are all for the most part an improvement over the stock grinds and anyone with cams should expect as good or better results than what we were able to attain during testing on the stock cams. We are working with Robert at FP to develop a cam that will optimize what the WR can provide. Robert and I looked at the data and we have some ideas on how to improve the grinds. We will keep you posted on the results of our testing.

Take care,

 

For that I like using my Blitz SBC-ID3. I can adjust the boost response. It took me a while to get the gain just right but its running smooth as ever. Also Tym, great work on the R&D you have done. Really looking forward to placing my order for the White Rabbit. THanks

 

First off, This originally was offered as a work around for a single persons concern.

How would someone get variable valve timing on your 4g63?

I'll tell you, the cam bolt would have to be loose.

If the Cam bolt were to become loose, you'll soon have bigger problems.

Besides, When the engine is running in its intended clockwise rotation, the dowel pin would be resting against the slotted side of the gear anyway.

The only way the cams would go towards the Zero location was if the engine were to be run backwards with the cam bolt loose.

I have over 6k miles on my set, no issues. It's the clamping force of the single bolt hat holds the gear to the cam. The dowel is only used as a locating reference.

BTW, I recomend buying adjustable cam gears.

It would be a huge PIA to change your timing using the method described above, as you would have to remove the v/c in order to hold the cam when loosening & tightening the cam bolt.

 

Tym, what would you recommend as an upgrade path? The reason I ask is because it seems like you're suggesting the WR upgrade (with injectors) then cams to improve spool up.

I'm on the fence here. I was thinking of cams as a way to add horsepower ("open up the top end" as has been said by others) but now it occurs to me that may not mean much on pump gas. The only real fault of the stock turbo is that it starts to fall off toward redline. The WR seems to spool up just as well, but not fall off (as soon).

From a dollar to hp/torque perspective the WR looks like the next best step. Adding cams later (already have exhaust) will be to improve response and build torque quicker. Is that about right?