Ryan said a well known person on evom screwed him over and he doesn't trust anyone after that. He actually wanted to charge me full price for another manifold and once this old one showed up at his door he would give me a refund. I don't care to have $1,200 of my own money tied up for no reason. He even has my debit card number on file, but he still doesn't trust me. If he can't trust me, he won't get my business anymore. I have been on here long enough to see I don't screw people or vendors over and I take my car to a reputable shop, which he could even send the new manifold to them and have them ship my old one back.

To be honest, the knock I was seeing while the stock turbo was mounted to the RnR manifold was also thought to be from the manifold. I have spoken to a couple people with experience in this matter and they explained it could be a possibility the poorly welded manifold is causing the knock.

I wish Ryan would step up to the plate and just ship me another manifold and I would gladly ship this back. Switching them out at the same time would really help with time, money, and especially my lower back.

 

Blaming knock on a couple of rough welds on exhaust manifold runners seems a bit far fetched to me. It seems ridiculous that this thread could turn into a RNR bashing session over someone's dissappointment of a Buschur product.

I would like to see a dyno chart of the max values within acceptable knock thresholds. Also, I would like to know more about how the AEM reads knock. I know it uses the stock knock sensor, but at how high of an rpm can the unit distinguish between real knock and regular engine noise?

 

Yea i had the same experience with RNR.. A year later and i still have not recieved what i was promised.

 

I'd get a ported stock manifold, install it, send the RNR back to RNR for exchange, and then sell the new replacement for a good price (since it would be new). Win-win.

 

Nice man! I will have my #'s down next week although I'm still trying to sell the upgraded actuator so I can get a forge unit.

 

If a turbo only makes claimed power with a host of "supporting mods", then the appropriate A-B comparison to do is not a completely stock set-up vs. "20G-9 and lots of supporting mods", it's "lots of supporting mods" vs. "lots of supporting mods plus a 20G-9", all other things being equal especially octane.

 

Don't start with your usual sly backdoor Buschur bashing. The knock that is present doesn't have anything to do with the turbo. We are seeing 3.6-4.0 volts of knock on C16+meth and only running 2 degrees down low and 12 degrees of timing in the higher rpm range. We added 1 more degree and brought it to 13 up top, but it didn't change anything.

Smoggy, we are not talking about a couple "rough welds". I am talking about the runners NOT LINING UP WHEN THEY WERE WELDED TOGETHER. READ WHAT I TYPE! The runners on the RnR manifold are offset from each other on 3 sections of the manifold. I talked with a couple manifold companys and even they said if the runners are not lined up it was poorly made. I'm no engineer by any means, but logic would tell you if turbulence is in the runner from the air passing over a lip, flow is being restricted. It doesn't take a genius to figure that one out. If the runners are not matched by flow, I would think the pulses wouldn't be matched either, but again I'm not an engineer.

Edit: Ryan himself told me on the phone it should not have been welded like that. He said they should line up perfectly.

As far as the turbo not meeting my expectations. I already said something is obviously wrong with my car. IT IS NOT THE TURBO! We didn't have knock issues until after RnR manifold install. That was all we changed out at the time, just the manifold. We found a split in the knock sensor wire and replaced the sensor with a new one. The knock did lower "a little", but was still present.

 

get the stock manifold put back on (not by you) and get her retuned / dynoed.
that should be enough proof whether or not the manifold is causing the problem

 

When you get that manifold off, you need to take pics. I have ceramic coated several aftermarket manifolds with this lip. I was very surprised and alarmed. Very poor craftsmanship for such and expensive part. The ones I did were not even gasket matched. It is like a 1/8 inch ridge that the exhaust hits. This definitly makes combustion possible and will set off the knock sensor.

 

Exactly!

 

I am shipping my stock manifold to Buschur tomorrow and buying a ported and coated mani.

 

Evotech, I just wanted to clarify that you were not talking about gasket-matching the runners to the manifold-to-head gasket. There's no way to get those runners that big. Plus, the gasket holes are way bigger than the holes in the head anyway. Were you talking about the collector side not being gasket matched on some of the ones you've seen?

 

I didn't realize what evotech was referring too, but I was agreeing with the part about a 1/8 lip and airflow.

I am taking pictures tomorrow of the runners so hopefully they will come out good enough everyone will be able to see what I am talking about.

The easiest way I can explain it is, take two drinking cups and place them together open end to open end. Now drop down one of the cups about 1/8 of an inch and that was how the runners were welded together on my manifold.

Does this make sense to anybody? Am I wrong for speculating this could cause turbulence and knock?

 

It makes perfect sense, I just dont know if that would actually be enough to cause a problem. Looking forward to the Buschur ported/coated header results.

 

These are pics I had of your car from when I was at the shop, Philip. Enjoy.