04AWDTURBOEVO
Needed to ask why you recommend -4/-1 settings for your cam gear settings? I saw an earlier post on this thread recommending anywhere from +3/-3 to +1/-3, which obviously states forwarding timing up front and retarding in the end. I was just wondering why you may think this is best.. I hope to get close to your numbers and want to be set-up as close as possible when my green turbo arrives.. thanks in advance.. Mike

 

Does TTP "sell" those settings?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04AWDTURBOEVO

....[..... my current gear settings are way different, but I do recommend -4/-1 for most applications]

Is the -4,-1 setting mostly for optimal dyno numbers and drag racing. Are your current cam settings preferable for everyday drivability and torque? I was just curious what you are currently using as cam timing settings.

 

Retarding the cams shifts the power further up the rpm range. You lose response and gain top end.

 

There's more than up and down though. There's also the shape of the powerband. I'm guessing that TTP's settings involve retarding the intake cam but retarding the exhaust cam even more to narrow and boost the powerband by shrinking the lobe separation angle (the reverse of what -4/-1 does). That would make for a mean cam lope on even small cams.

04AWDTURBOEVO, am I getting warm?

 

ordered my green today. maybe the first one with a 2.3 and dyno numbers

 

Keep me and us posted very interested.

Scorke

 

-4/-1 cam gear settings is very neutral for most cam applications. It will give you a decent spool up, good mid range power and nice top end hp, also good peak Tq. numbers. At least that is what I have experienced personally. I have seen several other local Evos doing good with this combination.
I have a smaller intake cam and a larger exhaust cam, but they are a mild combination.
gkania also happens to run the same cam gear combination I am using now, exactly the same and he has 280/280 cams. There are about 8-9 of us using the TTP settings locally, from 264/264 cams to 272/272's to 280/280's. Even 280's Comp cams and we all have gained mph. About 5 of them run 11's at 117 plus on the stock turbo. I know just talking about this here could start another debate and I really don't want that to happen to the thread.
I can say that our intake cam setting is retarded more than the exhaust side. -4/-1 is a good start. You can retard more on the dyno or at the track if you want where you can see the results. There is your clue, . It has been near a year that Scott set my gears this way, and I won't touch them again. I am very greatfull he set them this way for me. He did not have to do that for any of us. So we are glad and run well with them.

 

Thanks for your answer.. I'll be doing my own R&D with my cam gears set w/ the -4/-1 and go from there.. +1 above.. also I wanted to ask aobut your Forge WGA.. Did you have to do some fabrication to it to fit your 20G9LT?? thanks again 4wdturboevo

 

it would be nice if we could ever get a turbo,

our client has been waiting 1.5 months

cb

 

I read your post on LancerRegister, I believe. I've been watching over there to see what type of success you lads have with the EVOGreen.

I would say that in the USA, a vast majority of people upgrade cams before we start messing with upgrading turbos. I am sure there are a few out there, but I can't recall ever seeing a post of anyone running stock cams with any 50trim or larger turbo.

Depending on your cam choice, from mild to wild, I think you can expect to see anywhere from 20-45whp improvement. I believe I also suggested to you a ported stock exhaust manifold, as well as a tubular 02 housing (turbo dump elbow). Regardless of what people on LancerRegister believe, those will give you another 15-30whp. So you stand to gain 35-75whp (most likely around 45-50) with 3 simple upgrades. . .

Good luck mate.

EVOlutionary
aka "AutoXEvo" on LancerRegister

p.s. - if you are not already using it, I would suggest you get a metal "JDM EVO MR" BOV (same as USA EVO9 BOV). It will hold alot more boost than the plastic ones that came on EVO VIII's.

 

Originally, I purchased my 20G-LT with the 18 psi stronger actuator.
I decided to try the new Forge IX red spring actuator. The newer actuator is a piston design that it is say'd to be more reliable and with improved operation.
It bolts right on to the 20G, just like the stock actuator. No modifications neded to use it. I was using the old Forge VIII type actuator on my stock turbo and I liked it very much. They come chrome'd and perform as prommised. So I got it and set the pre load spring to about 19.7 psi. It holds there.

 

log please of a 19.7 hold in 3rd gear from 3000-7800

Then i'll believe

 

Yeah the issue is the spikes. I would love 19.7 psi solid but i'll spike to over 25PSI on the spoolup, which would cause knock for pump gas users.

 

very interesting thread....looking forward to my 20glt set up