real intercooler test on the way
There will NOT be a clear winner. There are too many factors that determine what makes a good intercooler.
1. Temperature drop - This is obviously one of the most important aspects as it is the main purpose of an intercooler. How close to ambient temperature can it keep your air intake temps.
2. Resistance to saturation or "heat soak" - sure your IC works great on the first pull, but what about pull 5, 6, and 7? Or in a road race? If it is storing the heat rather than shedding it, it will look great based on one or two dyno runs, but after that, it will get ugly.
3. Charge Air Flow - This is the air from the turbo going into the motor. more CFM = more power
4. Pressure Drop - Just because you have 22psi at the manifold doesn't mean your turbo is not cranking out 28psi because your crappy IC has 6psi of pressure drop across the core. An over-worked turbo generates a lot more heat than one running in a well-designed system.
5. Internal Volume - You have to pressurize the entire volume of the IC, so a smaller volume will make the turbo spool faster and recover from closed-throttle shifts faster as well.
6. Cooling Air Flow - How much air gets to the radiator and A/C condenser? Let's not forget that the FMIC isn't the only thing keeping temps under control. If you have no air going to the radiator, your awesome intake temps won't matter for long.
There are more factors, but I am at work and have stuff to do. Just wanted to remind everyone that there will very likely NOT be a clear winner.
1. Temperature drop - This is obviously one of the most important aspects as it is the main purpose of an intercooler. How close to ambient temperature can it keep your air intake temps.
2. Resistance to saturation or "heat soak" - sure your IC works great on the first pull, but what about pull 5, 6, and 7? Or in a road race? If it is storing the heat rather than shedding it, it will look great based on one or two dyno runs, but after that, it will get ugly.
3. Charge Air Flow - This is the air from the turbo going into the motor. more CFM = more power
4. Pressure Drop - Just because you have 22psi at the manifold doesn't mean your turbo is not cranking out 28psi because your crappy IC has 6psi of pressure drop across the core. An over-worked turbo generates a lot more heat than one running in a well-designed system.
5. Internal Volume - You have to pressurize the entire volume of the IC, so a smaller volume will make the turbo spool faster and recover from closed-throttle shifts faster as well.
6. Cooling Air Flow - How much air gets to the radiator and A/C condenser? Let's not forget that the FMIC isn't the only thing keeping temps under control. If you have no air going to the radiator, your awesome intake temps won't matter for long.
There are more factors, but I am at work and have stuff to do. Just wanted to remind everyone that there will very likely NOT be a clear winner.
You forgot LOOKS. A FMIC is an integral part of an Evo's look and I believe that the AMS FMIC looks most aggressive and can completely make or break a cars looks.
I think looks should be added to the category.
I think looks should be added to the category.
Jesus Scorke, Spell check is your friend.
But yes I agree, Looks has nothing to do with how an intercooler performs. Some people think that the evo looks horrible, but it still the best bang for your buck when it comes to performance, and can keep up with some seriously expensive exotic cars. See what the cars.
But yes I agree, Looks has nothing to do with how an intercooler performs. Some people think that the evo looks horrible, but it still the best bang for your buck when it comes to performance, and can keep up with some seriously expensive exotic cars. See what the cars.
My mistake! 
Evolved Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 619
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From: Istanbul
something else that you could objectively measure is weight
There will NOT be a clear winner. There are too many factors that determine what makes a good intercooler.
1. Temperature drop - This is obviously one of the most important aspects as it is the main purpose of an intercooler. How close to ambient temperature can it keep your air intake temps.
2. Resistance to saturation or "heat soak" - sure your IC works great on the first pull, but what about pull 5, 6, and 7? Or in a road race? If it is storing the heat rather than shedding it, it will look great based on one or two dyno runs, but after that, it will get ugly.
3. Charge Air Flow - This is the air from the turbo going into the motor. more CFM = more power
4. Pressure Drop - Just because you have 22psi at the manifold doesn't mean your turbo is not cranking out 28psi because your crappy IC has 6psi of pressure drop across the core. An over-worked turbo generates a lot more heat than one running in a well-designed system.
5. Internal Volume - You have to pressurize the entire volume of the IC, so a smaller volume will make the turbo spool faster and recover from closed-throttle shifts faster as well.
6. Cooling Air Flow - How much air gets to the radiator and A/C condenser? Let's not forget that the FMIC isn't the only thing keeping temps under control. If you have no air going to the radiator, your awesome intake temps won't matter for long.
There are more factors, but I am at work and have stuff to do. Just wanted to remind everyone that there will very likely NOT be a clear winner.
1. Temperature drop - This is obviously one of the most important aspects as it is the main purpose of an intercooler. How close to ambient temperature can it keep your air intake temps.
2. Resistance to saturation or "heat soak" - sure your IC works great on the first pull, but what about pull 5, 6, and 7? Or in a road race? If it is storing the heat rather than shedding it, it will look great based on one or two dyno runs, but after that, it will get ugly.
3. Charge Air Flow - This is the air from the turbo going into the motor. more CFM = more power
4. Pressure Drop - Just because you have 22psi at the manifold doesn't mean your turbo is not cranking out 28psi because your crappy IC has 6psi of pressure drop across the core. An over-worked turbo generates a lot more heat than one running in a well-designed system.
5. Internal Volume - You have to pressurize the entire volume of the IC, so a smaller volume will make the turbo spool faster and recover from closed-throttle shifts faster as well.
6. Cooling Air Flow - How much air gets to the radiator and A/C condenser? Let's not forget that the FMIC isn't the only thing keeping temps under control. If you have no air going to the radiator, your awesome intake temps won't matter for long.
There are more factors, but I am at work and have stuff to do. Just wanted to remind everyone that there will very likely NOT be a clear winner.
Sorry there is going to be a delay. The temp gauge I had failed to function when installed. I am going to buy something better, but it will take a few days to get here. Ticked me off as I have the time right now to devote to this.
Got some new temp gauges today. Took some preliminary spins to see some temp changes. I am a bit miffed with results. I am taking the car to the track tomorrow to see how it performs. Then I will make a thread about the direction of this testing.