RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

so a while back, i had my car tuned. the base run that day was 351hp/376trq. on the 3rd run, the car started to lose power. after 2 hours (btw, i missed school for this...-dunwoody college) i ended up with 290+hp/290+trq..i cant even remember the exact numbers because i was so pissed. the days after the tune, the car started getting on the oil like it was dinner. 1.5 weeks and 2 quarts would be gone. i originally thought it was the piston rings because everytime i started it, it would smoke like crazy for a couple seconds but i finally put it up on the hoist and guess what...the side of the block that faces the firewall is wet...soaked with oil all the way down to the oil filter housing and the oil fittings on it. for some reason, it never did get on the filter which is probably why i never noticed it after the 3 oil changes i've done since that tune. i just want to see what you guys think. i think that it is definitely a head gasket...but what about the rings? maybe the rings too? btw, when i thought it was the rings, i bought myself a wiseco piston set and eagle rods, new valves, new lifters, new cams, just to make sure that everything was covered so i dont go through this pain again on the dyno. i am going to pull the head pretty soon and was wondering if i should change the pistons while im in there even if the pistons or rings arent out of specs. i would like to ask your opinion on it and what you think of the situation.

note: maybe the rings are out and that is maybe why there is oil burning when i start the vehicle...but i am also thinking it just might the the head gasket...letting oil leak into the combustion chambers.

dsmjeffro

iTrader: (4)

oil is usually rings or valve seals doubt it`s valve seals
as for oil on your block o would search around a little bit the head gasket blowing usually means coolant will leak out
check the lines & stuff like that see if you can pin point the oil leak

RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

^^ ok, but i forgot to add that compression is still same all the way through at around 150...which is typical for a stock bottom end evo, correct? maybe its just a small leak? the tune was 3 months ago and as everyone knows, oil doesnt dry up very quickly. also, it has been taking coolant too..but very very slowly. i filled up the reservoir 2 months ago and just filled it up yesterday again where it was bottom dry. i've never had that when it was completely stock.

dsmjeffro

iTrader: (4)

150 is acceptable in the evo i would tear it down see what you got i know is hard to blow a head gasket in the evo but are u running arp studs & were they done 1 by one ?

if your using coolant you either have a leak or your hg is blown
like i said jack it up & pipoint that leak spray brake clean on the black so its nice & dry then run it till you see some leakage

lemmonhead

how much boost you running and who did your tune

RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

RSMotors in MN did my tune. i boosted 28psi max on tonoco 100 race fuel. 750injectors. this is on the FPGreen. walbro installed, cams 272/272, arp headstuds with head off the car because i was doing valvesprings too for future mods.

dsmjeffro...i will do that before i start tearing it down.

dsmjeffro

iTrader: (4)

just looked at my car you must have a blown head gasket there is nothing back there but the dip stick on the passenger side which could be leaking i know they pull right out

RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

thanks man. i didnt think there was anything else back there too but i couldnt remember. it has to be the HG then. i also thought it was the valvecover gasket but i just checked it and it is not leaking

Mikael

i'd pull the valve cover first and try to check the valve seals. it'll be hard, i don't know if you will be able to. usually a big cloud of smoke then going away is valve seals, not so much rings.

it would also explain the leak, boost pressure inside the valve cover pushing oil out past the seal.

Just seems like it would be an easier first thing to check, but with all those fun parts maybe you want to rebuild it anyways.

RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

yes, i just recently replaced the valve seals...but who knows..they could have failed..again. when i start it up in the cold weather here in MN, it misfires like oil is taking up space between the spark gap on the plug therefore not being able to ionize the gap. it happens for about 10 seconds.. feels like it is only happening in one cylinder though. the plugs are basically brand new..200 miles, i'd say.

back in the summer when i knew for sure the valve seals were out, the car was buring oil all the time..at idle you could see blue out the exhaust constantly. it either has a small valve seal leak or the head gasket is leaking slowly and when i shut it off, oil is able to seep into the combustion chamber to explain smoking when i start it back up.

so you think i should just rebuild it anyways? i wont be able to tell if the rings are bad anyways without taking out the piston...

Asta4125

If I was in your situation, I would do a short block rebuild for sure. That way you can have a brand new nicely built motor, that will take lots of abuse. I would also replace the hg as well. If you do it like, this since you already bought the parts, you will have the added insurance of a properly built bottom end. You said you replaced the valve seals, then I highly doubt they are bad again. You might have both problems, a leaky hg, and messed up ring, although I am leaning more towards the leaky hg at this point.

barneyb

You can't wear out a set of valve seals in 6 months. Still, smoke on startup is valve seals. So, I'd suspicion that you have cams and the retainers are hitting the seals. That, or the guides are very shot.

As for the oil on the back of the block, that isn't the usual mark of a failed head
gasket. I'd guess the valve cover is leaking.

RedLanEVO

iTrader: (16)

thanks guys. i will find out.