I was quoted $1,040.00 to do the job. After I complained alot.................. and complained alot more........... called Mitsu Corp and compained more.......... talked to dist. service guy and compained more......... then the service guy said if I had another clutch there when they took it apart to inspect it,that he might stick it in. Bought an after market clutch. Over nighted part (still took 4 days for dealer to install). Car made a grinding noise on the test drive and had to have the car toed back due to another problem (cross member not tightend and hose not connected). (I have heard that their might be a problem of noise being transmitted thought the clutch to the trany that makes this grinding noise that the stock clutch is made to dappens out). Later the dealer said if I kept the after market clutch in he would not warrenty any part past the clutch due to the after market clutch (top of the line clutch by the way $1,250 with shipping). The dealer pulled the after market clutch and installed a stock clutch (due to the fact that we where not sure if the dealer caused the problem by dropping the clutch or it shifted due to the cross member to be lose. So I had to pay $220.00 for a stock clutch and $45.00 to have the fly wheel ground. It took about 2 weeks of compaining to come up with this deal. This is BS we should not have this much trouble. I asked Mitsu if it could be their part and as told no. I asked what if we moniter the car (tracking chip or some thing to see how I drive it) and was told it would not help them in any way. So their answer I think is to ignore the problem, just dont drive your car. .

 

my car goes into the body shop to get my cwest kit painted and my rear end damaged fixed (then the cwest kit installed, assuming it gets here on time.. lol) and from there strait to the dealership
I hope i'll have good things to say about mitsu

I'm sure there's a good amount of people out there who havent been hassled

 

Its bad, everyday someone new is posting problems. It is NOT all the same people.

 

WoW this is crazy, the post above says that after a lot of complaining mitsubishi quoted him a price of $1040 for clutch replacement.

Check this out. My local dealer quoted me a price of 450 for the tear down labor , $750 for the Clutch disk pressure plate, and FlyWheel. The labor to install the new clutch and put it back together is also $450... is that insane or what. I have 10k miles on my car, and they claim that the clutch has excessive wear. Now mind you, they agreed to cover it under the 12mo 12k mile warrenty b4 they took it apart.

They denied the warrenty claim once they took the car apart. Ok, they said that they would cover the tear down, because they had to do that anyway just in order to deny the claim. My portion will still be 1291.00 with tax.

Oh yeah !!!! I got a lawyer working on this.

This is even more insane, because I paid $300 for a clutch for my e36 m3 and I installed that myself, plus i gave my buddy a hundred bucks to use his lift. BMW which is known for sometimes jacking up labor cost gave me a quote of $975 for the full replacement of the clutch. I wasnt the 1st owner, and that clutch had over 50k miles on it.

 

I'm beginning to wonder if that dang clutch restrictor isn't killing the clutches.

I did a couple of performance turns last night (street driving, not racing), and felt the clutch slipping because the clutch hadn't released when I was off the clutch pedal (and on the gas).

I had 90K miles on the stock '88 Celica AllTrac clutch when I sold the car this year, and my '79 Alfa is still on the factory clutch, so I don't tend to burn clutches. Maybe the restrictor requires a different (Miss Daisy?) driving technique, but I really don't like the feel of the restrictor clutch.

Maybe it's that delayed engagement that's been burning out clutches.

Okay, I suppose you could argue that it's protecting the gearbox ... at the cost of the sacrificial clutch. But engineering a car for bad driving is a lousy policy in sports cars.

So I guess the question is whether there's any warranty to be protected by keeping the restrictor.

 

If you've had trouble with your clutch, please report it to the NHTSA @ www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov . Dealers are finding it easy to ignore us singly, but together perhaps we can draw attention to our dilemma. The more people who report problems with their clutches, the more likely it is that a solution will be reached.

 

It would not be nearly as big of deal if it did not cost naerly 1,500 bucks to replace it at the factory.

I don't see how they can void the warranty by putting in an aftermarket clutch. If its a wear and tear part you should be able to replace it with whatever part you want, as if it is a muffler or tires, or somthing along those lines.

Do they not warranty your axle, drivetrain, and whatever because you don't run advan's

it's just kinda shady

 

why don't you add a under 10k or under 5k and no problems option because i haven't had problems, but i only have like 500 miles... but i guess it is obvious that i wouldn't have problems with that kind of mileage

 

Because 5k and 10k don't say anything, 15k is a very low standard at that. There was a poll like that, but people would click ok at 5k and 500 miles later were clutchless. Thats why

 

Again, the Evo has a 2100 Pound clutch, very meaty for a FF or a NA car, but for an AWD vehicle that allow sno slip, it is weak, this car needs a 2600 atleast, I am not surprised that the 2100 does not last and am actually looking foward to it burning so I can get a twin plate.

 

Just wanted to report that... with approx. 3,600 miles on my new clutch kit - ACT 3100 # pressure plate with stock disc, flywheel, steel line, w/ restrictor in tact - has held up very, very well. I fully recommend this set-up for those who want save lots of $, yet you do not want to go back to the dreadful stock pressure plate.. which is rated at 2200 #. With the ACT, I never smell burning clutch and it launches like a sling shot with my feathering technique - I just make sure that I don't ride the clutch too much during launches... and I ONLY launch when absolutely necessary. But it definitely feels MUCH STRONGER in every gear... and the additional pedal pressure (resistance) is nice but for experienced standard tranny drivers only - as you rookies out there are destined to rock the boat in annoying fashion!

If anyone has any additonial questions, or wants more info... feel free to send me an im.

A-C-T be da way 2 go joos!

 

You are very, very close my friend - in regard to the stock pressure plate specs. This was taken from an email I received when I asked ACT this question...

"Our pressure plates are coming in at around 3100lb (40% increase over stock) vs. the 2700lb of the Ralliart or the 2200lb of the stock pressure plate." Dirk@ACT

 

What is the price on the ACT as well as where can I find it? Also if I am going to pay 600-900 to do a clutch in the future why not spend 1500 on one? Really that price is not too high I have paid 3,000 for a clutch before and it was a twin disk and I loved it.

 

how is the clutch prob coming.

 

ACT should be around $500.00+tax. I am getting mine replaced next week sometime. My clutch is going out now...