They are suppose to spin freely, sounds kind of weird but of all the trans I've opened they do spin, you would probably think the with a few thousand pounds of load on the bearing, the cup would start spinning in the trans, not good. But I'm guessing the pre-load on the taper's keeps it from doing that not to mention the friction on the cylindrical rollers is far less than that between the cup and the trans case.

Although I would like to put weld a key to keep the cup from spinning.

 

Ill bring my heat gun home from work and try that....The races are supposed to spin in the case? Never heard of that and mine deff do not do that, mine are very tight going in and out.

 

That's probably because you've over-heated them or they don't have the proper lubrication or someone's modified something to make them have more interference. I've got a bunch ripped apart on my work bench, all good trans. Call up Jack's they will tell you.

Honestly dude, don't take this the wrong way, your messing up a great thread with your bs stuff, if you can't get the cups out perhaps you shouldn't be taking apart the trans.

 

Thanks Kazx9r. Jacks also confirmed that the Races are a free floating design. To me, I suspect that this would cause premature ware in the case itself, but I'll leave it alone if that's suppose to be the design.

I'm currently overhauling my tranny because of a Grinding/Rattling Noise that appears during Deceleration in 5th and 4th Gear. I basically have the car in 5th gear traveling around 75mph, lift off the gas to coast, and then a very loud, nasty sounding noise appears from under the car. I've heard the sound described as a coffee can filled with rocks rolling down a hill. Its gotten louder over time, and I basically got to the point where I couldn't take any longer. Considering this only happens in 5th gear, sometimes 4th, I decided to take apart the tranny hoping it was a bad Input Shaft bearing. However upon inspection, the bearings are flawless, and the gears as well. So I'm currently stumped as to what the problem is.

Does ANYONE know what the Problem is? Its a loud grinding/rattling sound coming from the drive-train during deceleration(foot off the gas) in 5th and 4th gear between 55-75mph. I also removed the inspection plate for the Transfer Case and the Ring and Pinion are aligned as they should be with no off center wear marks. Your help is appreciated.

 

Hows this shift forks look? hows the 5th gear bearing look?
Id have to hear it, mine did the same thing then the 5th gear bearing blew up jamming the car into 5th.

and yes the races are free floating, ALthough if you try to pull them out cockeyed, your going to have a serious issue they have to be pulled perfectly stright out, i have a tool for that

 

Sorry to get pissed off at you.

About the noise, someone maybe able to chime in on that. Before the trans, make sure you check your outer CV's and wheel bearing's. You should be able to check the input shaft ball bearing's easily, apply some load and turn them, if they sound rough, they are bad. The taper's are harder to figure out, but if you see discoloration or scores on the cup, then that's a problem.

Heck you already got it out now, just change them all and upgrade all of them to taper's. You could go deeper and see if the 4th and 5th gear speed gear's spin smoothly on its bushing. I have read somewhere the bushing sleeves wear out but only on the 1st and 2nd gear.

 

i was shocked to learn you cant buy 2nd gear syncro for a 6speed. you have to buy the whole output shaft to get it! weird? $1500+

 

Shift fork looks good. Actually everything thus far looks and feels perfect. CVs look fine, wheel bearing are still smooth, primary input shaft bearing looks great with no discoloration of heat and spins incredibly smooth even with load. In fact, the ball bearings look better than the tapers. However there are no scores, and only one race is a little darker than the rest, but nothing thus far to indicate a problem. I'm currently in the process of removing everything from the output shaft, since I am replacing 5th gear synchros due to a slight notch when putting into 5th gear. However I can spin 5th gear with ease, so I have a feeling I'm pulling things apart for no reason. I'm the original owner, have 111k miles on the car, I'm extremely **** about the maintenance.

I know people have experienced this deceleration noise in 5th and 4th, I just cant believe there is no conclusion as to why its happening. Maybe over time, the tranny developed slop and all I have to do is tighten everything back up because I'm at a total loss right now.

 

They're not overheated, and I hardly do any trans work, I can rebuild an engine perfectly but im new with trans work but this is how I and most of us learn. The whole point of this thread is DIY trans rebuild tips and related info, mine obviously has something wrong with the races or cases, now i know. If someone else has the same questions they will find the replies on here, thats the whole point of this thread and all threads in general. Someone else already did all the synchros and harder stuff, I was just wanting to check the shaft's preload and end play.

 

I have my evo 9 transmission apart at the moment, I am wanting to swap my 3rd and 4th for the evo gears does anyone know what is exactly needed? If it was already covered here sorry 11 pages was a lot to go over!

 

I know its kinda late, but i just made this to pull out one of the new input shaft tapered bearing races.

bought the valve spring compressor from harbor freight and took it apart. Then used a slide hammer with a hook and wrapped around the top stud of the tool i made.

 

Very awesome Thats something like I would have wanted to rig up but I just ended up sending my trans out to Jackstransmissions for the tapered input bearing upgrade and few other little things..I highly recommend them (and im picky) if you dont feel like messing with your trans.

 

Glad you took my recommendation Sean

 

Awesome

 

Hi all,

I want to rebuild my 6 speed after this session. So I want to upgrade it with Tapered Roller Bearing. Work the timken bearings in 6 speed too? Or 5 and 6 speed have the same bearings?