DIY Transmission Re-Build Tips
6 spd workshop manual..
http://www.megafileupload.com/1qm6o/...06_20speed.pdf
http://www.megafileupload.com/1qm6o/...06_20speed.pdf
They work great if you put about .003" preload on them.
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...315-TIMKEN.php
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...315-TIMKEN.php
They work great if you put about .003" preload on them.
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...315-TIMKEN.php
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...283-TIMKEN.php
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...315-TIMKEN.php
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-2...283-TIMKEN.php
Anyone have issues during reassembly getting the shifter mechanism to properly shift gears? My shifter linkage has some fight in it when attempting to shift gears and I'm thinking that I must have made a mistake when installing the shift check assembly (springs/pins/***** that sit at the bottom of the shift fork rods). Going to pop the case back open tonight and double check, can't imagine that it could be anything else?
Alright, I solved that problem. Had the wrong pin in the shift check assembly.
Has anyone had problems getting the snap ring to grab on to the main shaft bearing when assembling the two case halves? It seems like the bearing groove is about a few millimeters too short of the snap ring groove and it doesn't look like there is room for a shim or anything on the bottom of the main shaft. This is the 6 speed, for reference.
Has anyone had problems getting the snap ring to grab on to the main shaft bearing when assembling the two case halves? It seems like the bearing groove is about a few millimeters too short of the snap ring groove and it doesn't look like there is room for a shim or anything on the bottom of the main shaft. This is the 6 speed, for reference.
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 424
Likes: 21
From: Winchestertonfieldville (Rochester, NY)
Bringing this back from the depths!
Have a question for those that have checked end play specs when reassembling-
Twice now I have put grease on the input shaft bearing, used a .062" piece of solder and assembled/torqued the case. Each time the solder is the same, intact as it was when placed in the blob of grease. What would this mean for my shim needed? Or am I doing it wrong? I am following the FSM fwiw
Have a question for those that have checked end play specs when reassembling-
Twice now I have put grease on the input shaft bearing, used a .062" piece of solder and assembled/torqued the case. Each time the solder is the same, intact as it was when placed in the blob of grease. What would this mean for my shim needed? Or am I doing it wrong? I am following the FSM fwiw
Bringing this back from the depths!
Have a question for those that have checked end play specs when reassembling-
Twice now I have put grease on the input shaft bearing, used a .062" piece of solder and assembled/torqued the case. Each time the solder is the same, intact as it was when placed in the blob of grease. What would this mean for my shim needed? Or am I doing it wrong? I am following the FSM fwiw
Have a question for those that have checked end play specs when reassembling-
Twice now I have put grease on the input shaft bearing, used a .062" piece of solder and assembled/torqued the case. Each time the solder is the same, intact as it was when placed in the blob of grease. What would this mean for my shim needed? Or am I doing it wrong? I am following the FSM fwiw
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 424
Likes: 21
From: Winchestertonfieldville (Rochester, NY)
Are you referring the the shim that was in the trans before? Just for clarity sake I am trying to get the end play right on the input due to changing the shaft itself. Everything I read shows the solder used to check clearance as being crushed after torqueing the case together and using that as a reference but like I said, solder is intact like it never makes contact
Originally Posted by AWD96
@Dave W. ,
Are you referring the the shim that was in the trans before? Just for clarity sake I am trying to get the end play right on the input due to changing the shaft itself. Everything I read shows the solder used to check clearance as being crushed after torqueing the case together and using that as a reference but like I said, solder is intact like it never makes contact
Are you referring the the shim that was in the trans before? Just for clarity sake I am trying to get the end play right on the input due to changing the shaft itself. Everything I read shows the solder used to check clearance as being crushed after torqueing the case together and using that as a reference but like I said, solder is intact like it never makes contact










