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Project: Evo6 Powered Mirage

Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:07 AM
  #76  
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thanks

you'll have to be more specific, what do you mean the tranny connector? the speed sensor?
I'm in China at the mo with Carl Ruiterman for the WDS (world drift series), i'll be back in a few days.

Cheers, Mike
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #77  
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Hi, Thanks for the response, i mean this connector. if u know where it comes from on the body loom (im assuiming thats where they come from :s )

this one is from an evo 8 loom and they go to the body loom inside the car however they are a lot diff to the ones on the evo 4-6






This is the GSR loom (almost identical to evo 4) wanted to know where to tap the evo 8 tranny connector pictured above into this.

hope this is not too confusing.
Thanks!

Last edited by Gaurav; Oct 4, 2010 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:09 PM
  #78  
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I want one!
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 02:33 AM
  #79  
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pics from my build last weekend, and some current progress



ribbing on #3 cylinder protrudes more than the others.. causing the rod to hit the block... is this normal???





problem solved











My "garage" much to my flatmates disgust... seriously (spot the clutch!)




mivec oil feed


looped oil line for run in, custom crank trigger wheel


almost ready for install




enjoy!

Last edited by RSMike; Oct 22, 2010 at 02:35 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 06:49 AM
  #80  
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response on the way!
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #81  
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Awesome man, good progress!
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #82  
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it has been a very busy week.

The car is now finished, just awaiting a wheel alignment before i can drive it home.

Results are 280kwatw (375whp) @ 22psi with the 2.3 + mivec and FP Red.
Full boost @ 3500 is amazing.
I've driven the car around the block a couple of times now, and all i have to say is WOW...
Induction noise with the anti-surge cover for the turbo is insane
I will be taking the car back for more tuning (28-30psi) once i've changed a few things, i'm not happy with the exhaust and the intercooler on the car.

The largest improvement i've made on the car... The modified twin plate clutch. This thing is absolutely insane. As fast as i can slap gears, it just goes in. I can't believe it. This could have also been helped by the brass shifter bushing i got made up, and the blox urethane front gearbox mount too.

I missed racing last friday, but i will be racing friday week. I'll take a video of my runs, and show everyone how it shifts

I'll put up some dyno sheets here, and in the results forum.

more pics to come!
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 12:50 PM
  #83  
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Hey,

What ic are you thinking of? Garret core or going to something more stealth like water to air like you said previously?

Where did you source your 4g64 crankshaft from? Kempys? What sorta price is acceptable?

Things are going to get intresting at 30psi!

Cheers
Calvin

Last edited by GHOSTN; Nov 7, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 05:01 PM
  #84  
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Hey Calvin, i got the crank out of an old 4g64 block, apparently out of a Chariot... to be honest, i got paid $100 for it lol. I bought the block for $100 of trademe, then sold the same block without the crank for $200, so i won there

i am seriously considering water to air at the mo, but the turbo compressor outlet orientation would make that a pain in the ***. If i rotate that it would work really well, but then i'd have to weld on mounting points for the internal wastegate actuator and potentially bend/buckle the compressor cover.
The reason why i'm thinking water to air is purely because i'm short on space.
If i can make a 2/3 size radiator thats dual pass, and run a short (450mm) intercooler and get the pipes exiting on either side of the radiator, that would work really well. (so i can push the intercooler back).
Currently i'm running into cooling problems, especially on the dyno. I haven't actually checked my temps on the road. But the front of the car really doesn't like to direct air to the cooling systems.
I would look at getting an ETS core, and custom making the end tanks. They use a coarser fin count so more air gets through to the radiator, the garrett core would just cook my car.

I want to run one of these in the rear of the car:
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/d...rtnumber=12578

and this one in the middle:
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...e=main&id=8955

Shipping will cost a lot but i think it's the only way i'm going to be able to get good power and keep the noise legal at below 95dB.

Cheers, Mike
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #85  
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pics as promised



Dyno sheet of before (2.0 + red) and after (2.3 + mivec + red).
Pretty much everything else is the same.

The dotted line is a 12second run (old setup), the solid lines are 8second runs (new setup).
12 second runs for the new setup saw 23psi being made at 3500-3600psi.



Boost graph.

More tuning will come later, i'll drive around like this for a while!

Cheers, Mike
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #86  
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i used a magnaflow 3 inch straight through muffler without any resonator muffler and a 3inch exhaust straight trough and the sound is pretty low and decent...i love it...it is on a 2.4L 4g69 ralliart turbo...obviously you have more power but the sound of that magnaflow is deep but EXTREMELY LEGAL...i even went to the police station to claim a speeding ticket and the guy told me: your car is turbo right? and i asnwer mmm yeah why?? and he said cause it sounds extremely stock...
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #87  
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So it looks like its spooling 800-900 rpm faster. Are you now happy with low end? or still yearning for smaller turbo?
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
So it looks like its spooling 800-900 rpm faster. Are you now happy with low end? or still yearning for smaller turbo?
the powerband is exactly how i want it now. Much like a stock turbo.

i'm yearning for a non rumbling car @ 65mph lol... the urethane bushings diff hanger and moustache bar is driving me crazy. I pretty much can't use my rear view mirror because of the vibration.
it's only at cruise though, accel and deccel is fine.
it happened a little bit with the old setup, i'm wondering if it's the gearbox. Pretty much 5th gear only, the other gears are mostly smooth.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:33 AM
  #89  
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eliminated balance shafts causes the vibrating mirror big time. doesnt matter how well the engine was balanced. and 2.4s are worse than 2.0s

hows the pedal pressure on the clutch?
how bad is driveshaft noise on decel?
I know it drives smooth. very easy to take off from start.and shifts fantastic.

Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Nov 10, 2010 at 05:36 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
eliminated balance shafts causes the vibrating mirror big time. doesnt matter how well the engine was balanced. and 2.4s are worse than 2.0s

hows the pedal pressure on the clutch?
how bad is driveshaft noise on decel?
I know it drives smooth. very easy to take off from start.and shifts fantastic.
there is definitely more vibe from removing the balance shafts, if i go from 5th to 4th at 65mph it's not smooth!
but this rumble in the back is very pronounced in 5th and ~60mph, everywhere else it's quiet.

The clutch pedal feels similar to what it did before. it's actually easier to drive than my modified evo7 clutch that was in it (ACT carbon/kevlar plate and increased pressure plate). This is because of how they modify the pivot points on the pressure plate/top plate.
driveshaft noise is there, but not horrific. I just need to remind myself that it's a race car now (almost) and just ignore it

I just love it how it's not grabby. You ride it out and it makes a little noise (sometimes squeeks) and you're away. And you got it, it shifts like a dream

Very nice build
thanks

Cheers, Mike
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