Done a few timing belts on DSMs, how much more difficult on an Evo IX?
#5
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Like you said, a little less room down there compared to a DSM (although if you've worked on a 2G you're already used to working in tight spaces). The MIVEC cam gear "floats" when there's no oil pressure so just line it up like normal.
I've seen people snap the modified battery hold-down bolts in there, be careful. I always use the correct service tool, which is hardened. If you're using that tool, I'm assuming you are re-using the hydraulic tensioner and not re-tensioning anything? I take the time to do it right, personally.
The EVO cam gear timing marks are also on the valve cover, unlike a DSM where you point the notches on the gears toward each other.
I've seen people snap the modified battery hold-down bolts in there, be careful. I always use the correct service tool, which is hardened. If you're using that tool, I'm assuming you are re-using the hydraulic tensioner and not re-tensioning anything? I take the time to do it right, personally.
The EVO cam gear timing marks are also on the valve cover, unlike a DSM where you point the notches on the gears toward each other.
#6
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The Evo has a lot more working room than a 1G DSM. The timing cover comes off no problem and the water pump, if replacing it, is in the clear. You do have to pull some things that are different like the power steering pump and bracket (maybe you can skip the bracket if not replacing the proximal pulley). You will also have to drop the engine some to get one of the accessory belt idlers off.
The big difference I noticed is the way the cams want to move on an Evo. On the DSM one cam would move a little. On an Evo they both want to move a lot and with power. This can cause the belt to jump at the crank sprocket while you are messing with the tension. Someone posted a picture of a little plastic block that you stick in between the two cam sprockets, locking them in place, before removing the belt. I want one of those. I also saw a picture where someone had a box end on each of the cam sprocket bolts and a third wrench was used to hold the other two wrenches (and hence the cams) in place. So, a little ingenuity is required here.
The big difference I noticed is the way the cams want to move on an Evo. On the DSM one cam would move a little. On an Evo they both want to move a lot and with power. This can cause the belt to jump at the crank sprocket while you are messing with the tension. Someone posted a picture of a little plastic block that you stick in between the two cam sprockets, locking them in place, before removing the belt. I want one of those. I also saw a picture where someone had a box end on each of the cam sprocket bolts and a third wrench was used to hold the other two wrenches (and hence the cams) in place. So, a little ingenuity is required here.
#7
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This thing is priceless IMO. I bought the whole tool kit and it has held up to countless installs.
Last edited by SpoolinUp; Mar 3, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
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#9
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The Evo has a lot more working room than a 1G DSM. The timing cover comes off no problem and the water pump, if replacing it, is in the clear. You do have to pull some things that are different like the power steering pump and bracket (maybe you can skip the bracket if not replacing the proximal pulley). You will also have to drop the engine some to get one of the accessory belt idlers off.
The big difference I noticed is the way the cams want to move on an Evo. On the DSM one cam would move a little. On an Evo they both want to move a lot and with power. This can cause the belt to jump at the crank sprocket while you are messing with the tension. Someone posted a picture of a little plastic block that you stick in between the two cam sprockets, locking them in place, before removing the belt. I want one of those. I also saw a picture where someone had a box end on each of the cam sprocket bolts and a third wrench was used to hold the other two wrenches (and hence the cams) in place. So, a little ingenuity is required here.
The big difference I noticed is the way the cams want to move on an Evo. On the DSM one cam would move a little. On an Evo they both want to move a lot and with power. This can cause the belt to jump at the crank sprocket while you are messing with the tension. Someone posted a picture of a little plastic block that you stick in between the two cam sprockets, locking them in place, before removing the belt. I want one of those. I also saw a picture where someone had a box end on each of the cam sprocket bolts and a third wrench was used to hold the other two wrenches (and hence the cams) in place. So, a little ingenuity is required here.
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I just kept the service manual handy and start from the bottom and work your way up the front of the motor. If you have aftermarket cam gears some of those small bar clamps work well in place of the binder clips. Nice tip on the wrenches and zip ties.
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