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for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues

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Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:03 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by n2oiroc
are you guys chiseling the baffles out then gluing them back in place or what?
i just plan on using a shop vac then spraying the **** out of it with brake cleaner then dunking it in the neighbors pool a few times (kidding)

making something to hold water tho to dunk it in and out to assure all that ****s out.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:05 PM
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I noticed some of those -10 fittings taper down a little in the ID with the smaller NPT threads.

You should keep the stock baffles in place to prevent oil coming out. I used compressed air to clean mine out.

BTW- Jack did this awhile back on his DSM. Interesting.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/pcv-...dsm_684587.htm
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
i just plan on using a shop vac then spraying the **** out of it with brake cleaner then dunking it in the neighbors pool a few times (kidding)

making something to hold water tho to dunk it in and out to assure all that ****s out.
Actually shop vac with a small attachment is what I did. Worked great
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:05 PM
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I think im gonna try to a regular bit, those other bits scare me lol. ill start with a small hole and slowly increase it and connect the 2 together. im a slow worker so it will take me about 3 hrs i bet LOL.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnEB
Actually shop vac with a small attachment is what I did. Worked great
ya i love the shop vac. i suck up spiders and all kinds of **** with that thing
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rodent
I noticed some of those -10 fittings taper down a little in the ID with the smaller NPT threads.

You should keep the stock baffles in place to prevent oil coming out. I used compressed air to clean mine out.

BTW- Jack did this awhile back on his DSM. Interesting.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/pcv-...dsm_684587.htm
ya i seen that. his idea worked perfect. ill use the air compressor on it also i forgot to mention that.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
ya i love the shop vac. i suck up spiders and all kinds of **** with that thing
LOL.

As your drilling just stop now and then and clean up. Another good idea is put some grease on the end of the drill bit... that will also catch shavings.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:33 PM
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good idea.. definitely will do the grease idea.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:45 PM
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Now you guys have my interests in this. I am working on some things that may work.

1. The B-shaft inspection hole in the front of the block. Just ordered the fitting for it to use -6.

2. Seeing if there is a possibility to weld a -10 fitting to the balance shaft hole plug when deleting them. Not sure if belts and pulleys are going to get in the way yet.

3. Use the dipstick with an elbow off of it to vent to the catch can up high so it does not drain back into the motor.

4. Worked on another catch can design for the front corner of the car. Its going to go where the coolant overflow was. Probably not going to work for most people but it will in my car so I am going to make it.

5. I am probably going to put 2 -10 fittings in the front of the valve cover. A big part of the reason I am filling catch cans is because on all the oil in the head goes to the back when accelerating.

I will keep you guys updated.

-Em
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:49 PM
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What are your thoughts on the PCV delete, Emery? I am using those fittings you sent me and just got rid of the PCV valve. Should I retain it and fab something else up, or what would you suggest? I do change my oil frequently (never over 3,000 miles) so will it make a difference.

This can and fittings has cleaned up all the blow by I was seeing at WOT and there isn't a hint of burnt oil in the exhaust anymore.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by EmeryatSTM
Now you guys have my interests in this. I am working on some things that may work.

1. The B-shaft inspection hole in the front of the block. Just ordered the fitting for it to use -6.

2. Seeing if there is a possibility to weld a -10 fitting to the balance shaft hole plug when deleting them. Not sure if belts and pulleys are going to get in the way yet.

3. Use the dipstick with an elbow off of it to vent to the catch can up high so it does not drain back into the motor.

4. Worked on another catch can design for the front corner of the car. Its going to go where the coolant overflow was. Probably not going to work for most people but it will in my car so I am going to make it.

5. I am probably going to put 2 -10 fittings in the front of the valve cover. A big part of the reason I am filling catch cans is because on all the oil in the head goes to the back when accelerating.

I will keep you guys updated.

-Em
I'm surprised you're filling up your can. Where is your fitting in the back? The PCV fitting is baffled pretty well.

Since you have access to a dyno, are you able to pick up 10hp like I did just venting better?

What are your thoughts on a vacuum source like Jacks idea or using a vacuum pump?

Looking forward to your results.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rodent
I'm surprised you're filling up your can. Where is your fitting in the back? The PCV fitting is baffled pretty well.

Since you have access to a dyno, are you able to pick up 10hp like I did just venting better?

What are your thoughts on a vacuum source like Jacks idea or using a vacuum pump?

Looking forward to your results.

My car fills it at the very back end of the track. If I let out early in 4rth I have nothing so I am sure its due to spending a lot of time in the high RPM's and filling the head.

The PCV valve in my eyes is useless and blocks off one of the more use-able vents when under boost. The best thing you can actually do is get vacuum to the crank case. Without a pump I really do not see that being easy unless you are willing to use a sealed can and a port to the intake. On my car that is impossible as it does not have an intake. I suppose I can try that on Shawna's car and see what happens on the dyno.



-Em
Old Nov 24, 2010, 08:59 PM
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One of my main concerns is getting the pressure out of the block without it traveling to the head. As the air/ pressure goes up through the oil return ports in the head it keeps the oil from returning to the pan as fast as it needs too.

-Em
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by EmeryatSTM
My car fills it at the very back end of the track. If I let out early in 4rth I have nothing so I am sure its due to spending a lot of time in the high RPM's and filling the head.

The PCV valve in my eyes is useless and blocks off one of the more use-able vents when under boost. The best thing you can actually do is get vacuum to the crank case. Without a pump I really do not see that being easy unless you are willing to use a sealed can and a port to the intake. On my car that is impossible as it does not have an intake. I suppose I can try that on Shawna's car and see what happens on the dyno.



-Em
I am going to run an oil analysis after the next oil change to see if anything changes with the PCV removed. Keep us updated on the results. In my car the re route to the intake is impossible too, but I could try to fab something up if it is really worth it. As for a vacuum pump, I have no idea where I could fit that in...

Keep us updated. Thanks for your help.
Old Nov 24, 2010, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by buchnerj
What are your thoughts on the PCV delete, Emery? I am using those fittings you sent me and just got rid of the PCV valve. Should I retain it and fab something else up, or what would you suggest? I do change my oil frequently (never over 3,000 miles) so will it make a difference.

This can and fittings has cleaned up all the blow by I was seeing at WOT and there isn't a hint of burnt oil in the exhaust anymore.
i say if it works keep doing it.. if the oil analysis comes back again the same doing it at 3k miles then theres your answer. your blackstone report with brad penn is the reason its in my car right now


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